I have dabbled in installing 12v electronics since I got my first car. Whether is was installing a radio for myself or a friend, adding audio components or accessories in anything with a motor and a battery, or building a Teardrop trailer I have simply used the crimper/stripper that came with a kit of wire terminals or one like it I bought. I have for a while switched to a dedicated stripper as they are much better, sharper, and they do not twist and stop functioning like the combination units tend to do. Maybe I was unaware that such an item existed, but I bought a dedicated wire terminal crimper recently and all I can saw is WOW!!! Not real exciting I know, but I never liked the squished looking crimp the combo unit made and I certainly never felt secure it was going to hold especially if I left the applied insulation on. This dedicated crimper also provides much better leverage.
Here is the actual tool
(http://images.lowes.com/product/converted/032886/032886911217lg.jpg)
It can be used with the applied insulation or with a bare terminal if you like to make a tidy connection with heat shrink like I do. Also with a bare terminal, after you crimp it, there is a jaw on the tool to fold the crimp together on itself giving you a factory crimp. Don't get me wrong, I like to solder joints whenever applicable, but there are times you don't.
If you dabble in electric 12v stuff like I do, then do yourself a favor and pick one of these up. Universal in size for a variety of AWG's Worth every penny.
Adam
The only crimp tool I use. Got 3 of them :up:
I have a variety of crimpers but IMO you cant beat the Ratchet Type.
(http://i.imgur.com/ijUIMXc.png)
Unless in a pinch I would never crimp wiring that is exposed to the elements. Even if you performed a proper crimp it's the corrosion that sets up 6mo to a year later that concerns me. Besides that how do you how much pressure to apply to a crimp without knowing when the wire is weakened and starts breaking?
If I may then... What is everyone doing? Crimp or Solder?
Quote from: gordonr on January 09, 2015, 04:31:24 AM
Unless in a pinch I would never crimp wiring that is exposed to the elements. Even if you performed a proper crimp it's the corrosion that sets up 6mo to a year later that concerns me. Besides that how do you how much pressure to apply to a crimp without knowing when the wire is weakened and starts breaking?
Well the ratchet one is supposed to be setup for proper pressure I assume, but otherwise I probabaly break the "Potty mouth" out of the wire just like I do when I over-tightening bolts LMAO!! I try to get the connectors with the heat shrink right on them. I have some but connectors that ouze out a clear sealant when they are heat shrunk.....love that type to sealing purposes.
Adam
I solder all speaker leads onto the speakers.
any amp with a screw down connector for speakers or power, I tin the ends of the wires to give the screw something extra to bite on
any crimping I do, I do it with standard heat shrink connectors like this (http://www.delcity.net/store/Heat-Shrink-Butt-Connectors/p_805404.h_801795.t_1.r_IF1003?mkwid=o5S86NUr&crid=38094426869&gclid=CK3IseqAh8MCFc9cMgodyVsAlg).
For extending wires I twist, solder, and heat shrink when I can. If it can't stay together before the solder from twisting, then if it heated up there is a potential it won't hold together after solder. End connectors I crimp, if they are 14AWG or bigger I will crimp and finish with heat shrink.
Adam
Quote from: FSG on January 09, 2015, 04:27:49 AM
I have a variety of crimpers but IMO you cant beat the Ratchet Type.
(http://i.imgur.com/ijUIMXc.png)
I use these on occasion but the majority of the time I simply use the crimp tool. I've had a crimp tool in my hand since the early 80s and after that long you know what you can and cannot do with them.
Quote from: UltraNutZ on January 09, 2015, 05:23:47 AM
I solder all speaker leads onto the speakers.
any amp with a screw down connector for speakers or power, I tin the ends of the wires to give the screw something extra to bite on
any crimping I do, I do it with standard heat shrink connectors like this (http://www.delcity.net/store/Heat-Shrink-Butt-Connectors/p_805404.h_801795.t_1.r_IF1003?mkwid=o5S86NUr&crid=38094426869&gclid=CK3IseqAh8MCFc9cMgodyVsAlg).
So the only connectors you use are going to the speakers themselves?
yes sir. if the wires such as the wires that are on the Polk crossovers already have connectors on them that plug directly into the speaker, I use them. If I'm running my own wires to the speakers say from a SS amp to the speaker with no crossover involved, then I solder the wire to the speaker terminals. With a cordless soldering iron it literally takes 2.5 secs per speaker and well worth the extra effort.
Quote from: Modes on January 09, 2015, 04:17:06 AM
I have dabbled in installing 12v electronics since I got my first car. Whether is was installing a radio for myself or a friend, adding audio components or accessories in anything with a motor and a battery, or building a Teardrop trailer I have simply used the crimper/stripper that came with a kit of wire terminals or one like it I bought. I have for a while switched to a dedicated stripper as they are much better, sharper, and they do not twist and stop functioning like the combination units tend to do. Maybe I was unaware that such an item existed, but I bought a dedicated wire terminal crimper recently and all I can saw is WOW!!! Not real exciting I know, but I never liked the squished looking crimp the combo unit made and I certainly never felt secure it was going to hold especially if I left the applied insulation on. This dedicated crimper also provides much better leverage.
Here is the actual tool
(http://images.lowes.com/product/converted/032886/032886911217lg.jpg)
It can be used with the applied insulation or with a bare terminal if you like to make a tidy connection with heat shrink like I do. Also with a bare terminal, after you crimp it, there is a jaw on the tool to fold the crimp together on itself giving you a factory crimp. Don't get me wrong, I like to solder joints whenever applicable, but there are times you don't.
If you dabble in electric 12v stuff like I do, then do yourself a favor and pick one of these up. Universal in size for a variety of AWG's Worth every penny.
Adam
This is the best I believe, Any others that just compress without the dimple allow the wires to become loose......In my opinion. I also have several of these types not to mention many other crimpers.......which I rarely touch.
The only hold back is this type of crimper only works on red and blue.........Not yellow connectors....unless you have one that will work for all three sizes.
I use the Klein 1005-INS primarily but I have other Klein 1005 as well. they work great for anything 10 or smaller including yellow connectors.
(https://dl.dropbox.com/s/77jm2l5c5ld37rh/1N041_AS01.JPG?dl=0)
QuoteI've had a crimp tool in my hand since the early 80s and after that long you know what you can and cannot do with them.
:agree:
My usage started in '71, the NASA inspectors were a tough bunch, checking every connection, crimp and component bend under an eye loupe.
and all this time I thought you were a young puppy.. nah.. you're just an old fart like me! :hyst: