As the title says, the bike moves pretty good when in gear and the clutch is squeezed.
I know there is a thing called a clutch tamer that I recall from decades ago.
What can I do today to help stop this from happening?
Thanks
JLA
Are you running a mousetrap? Stock number of plates? Stock chain primary?
No mousetrap.
Belt primary.
Stock plates.
Collapsing outer sheath on the cable?
I don't think so.
Assuming the clutch is adjusted correctly. Put a clutch tamer on it. The belt is most likely pulling the basket away from the clutch hub when the clutch is applied.
(https://vtwin.parts/image/cache/data/VTwin/tamer-style-clutch-hub-retainer-kit-18-1112-1000x1000.jpg)
I am going to order order/buy one tomorrow if it's available.
Installation will be my next hurdle.
I run a Tamer and like it. Many negative comments about them but that's their opinion. Fine, each to his own.
The biggest thing that made the difference for me goes like this:
Upgrade to the Shovel number of plates. Because you have increased grip area, you can narrow the lining width as shown in pic. This "frees" significantly better. Also improves gear shifting. I can scarcely believe it's the same clutch. Lining width currently 18mm. Works for me with 74" FLH 44mm carb.
[attach=0]
More details on my blog.
Good suggestion on adding another plate. Less spring pressure is needed as well.
I had never thought to reduce the clutch material at the ID. That's also a neat idea.
The clutch tamer works really well. I used one for years and it's very effective at keeping the clutch basket from walking out when you pull the clutch lever.
You can tell if this is the problem by:
1) remove the primary cover
2) start the bike
3) while in neutral, pull/release the clutch lever and watch the spinning clutch basket (looking down at it)
If it moves out/in as you pull/release, that's the problem and a tamer should fix it.
Also, with belt drives, if your engine and transmission shafts are not aligned perfectly parallel, the clutch basket can move in/out.
Aug 18 Update:
My local indy only had the full length needle bearings which replace the oem caged short needles on the hub.
I just finished installing them, almost.
I greased the needle bearings and installed them in the drum I guess you would call it.
The very last needle bearing from the new package will not fit.
There isn't quite enough room for it.
I checked and rechecked all the other bearings. They are all seated properly.
Now the big question. Do I leave it out???
The opening is only wide enough for about half a needle bearing width.
Need good advice fellas.
No do not leave it out. The way those are to be used is you bore / hone the ID of the clutch basket to acquire the needed clearance for the rollers. Take them back, and use the OEM bearing and cage with a clutch tamer.
This what you want.
https://www2.vtwinmfg.com/tamer-style-clutch-hub-retainer-kit.html (https://www2.vtwinmfg.com/tamer-style-clutch-hub-retainer-kit.html)
http://www.vtwinmfg.com/Instructions/18/18-1112.pdf (http://www.vtwinmfg.com/Instructions/18/18-1112.pdf)
(https://www.vtwinmfg.com/WebPics/18/18-1112a.jpg)
I may have to take back what I said. Assuming that you may have this kit, that comes with 53 rollers, they say to use only 52. The older kits I spoke of required the clutch basket ID to be opened up. This may be ok then, if you have 52 in there, and the basket doesn't rock on the clutch hub.
https://www.vtwinmfg.com/Instructions/20/20-0229.pdf (https://www.vtwinmfg.com/Instructions/20/20-0229.pdf)
Quote from: Ohio HD on August 18, 2021, 04:32:11 PM
I may have to take back what I said. Assuming that you may have this kit, that comes with 53 rollers, they say to use only 52. The older kits I spoke of required the clutch basket ID to be opened up. This may be ok then, if you have 52 in there, and the basket doesn't rock on the clutch hub.
https://www.vtwinmfg.com/Instructions/20/20-0229.pdf (https://www.vtwinmfg.com/Instructions/20/20-0229.pdf)
You can't imagine how happy this made me.
Thank you!
Down to the 11th hour
Everything is back together but...
Soon as I put her in gear it lunges forward.
I'm assuming its just an adjustment but no luck so far.
The center screw on the hub, I sent it in until it bottomed, then backed off 1/2 turn.
The three nuts on the hubs are in about 1/4 inch.
Hand lever is adjusted as typical.
What am I missing?
I am supposed to ride this afternoon at 3:00 :banghead:
Well this may help, may not. Remove any covers over the primary. With engine off, trans in neutral, squeeze clutch lever with left hand and reach down with right hand and spin the clutch, if it doesn't spin free get back into the adjustments. Assuming you have the proper service manual, or UTube, check the free play on the clutch lever, follow the cable down (no binding or kinks), the arm should be almost touching the rear bottom of the oil tank. The center screw in and backed out 1/2 turn should be correct, the three clutch nuts (1/4" in ?) are set so there is 1 inch +/- of space for the springs, then hold the clutch lever in and slowly spin the clutch by hand, if the outer plate wobbles then tighten or loosen the nearest nut until it spins true. Also if the cable is dry, lube it, works better that way, been there. :embarrassed:
Play (wear) in the lever bushings can be big. It will add free play to need to be working for you. You can also shave a tad off the 1/2 turn pushrod slack too. It grows as it gets hot so will be fine. Are your fibers new? They may need to work the fuzz and high edges off.
Try this https://youtu.be/6LqY66zv2OY
Since it hasn't been mentioned or discussed to this point and to help, you might explain what YOU mean when you say your center adjusting screw is "bottomed". Many interpretations of this value have caused as many problems with clutch adjustments. All of this of course also assumes a cold clutch (engine/trans) when adjusted - again, not previously mentioned or discussed as yet.
Personally, I have found taking advantage of the weight of a long handle (6") Allen key wrench with the long arm of the wrench starting around the 1:00 position and then dropping freely until it naturally stops, finds my "bottomed" position adequately every time. Your results may vary.
How's your throw out bearing?
In my shovelhead days, with primary belts, ran a Tamer with much success, but the tamer has more to do with quieting of the plates from rattling, than operation.
The long 52 rollers were way too tight for my shovel.