What's the conncenses on cylinder stud uses?
Meaning how many top end builds on the same studs before replacement? Say a guy goes from
96 to 103,then decides he wants more, then goes to 107/110!
86
For this particular scenario, I replace the studs. However, I tend to lean towards over doing things.
Interesting question. I know that on some engines, the manufacturer wants you to replace the studs as they are stretched when originally torqued down and reuse does not allow for the initial stretching. I don't know how sensitive the hd studs are. Does the mothership make any recommendations?
If you are going from a 96 to a 110 by going through a 103, a few more dollars for new studs should not break the bank. I'd call it cheap insurance against a build fail.
Not sure If I've ever read of a stock stud either yielding torque or breaking, even on multiple uses? :scratch:
Ron
I re use once, second time replace. For less that 40 bucks it's a no brainer
The reason for the ? Is, I've heard the concern is not for the studs but for concern of the case threads upon replacement.
Money's not the concern, just the use of the studs.
86
I replace them, it's really cheap insurance. I replace head bolts too.
Quote from: Ohio HD on September 04, 2019, 10:01:07 AM
I replace them, it's really cheap insurance. I replace head bolts too.
I should be paying more attention to head bolts and replacing them more often.
Quote from: les on September 04, 2019, 10:24:41 AM
Quote from: Ohio HD on September 04, 2019, 10:01:07 AM
I replace them, it's really cheap insurance. I replace head bolts too.
I should be paying more attention to head bolts and replacing them more often.
I'm also guilty of overdoing things. But I also never have issues later.
If they look like hell, rust, etc, or if they need to come out for the 3rd time , I replace. Otherwise the weakest link in the chain is the aluminum threads in the case, so they stay in. Never had a failure. :up:
John
I'm with John on the weakest link! Never had a stud break.
Of all the engines we build on a weekly basis, (and not over 300, 110"s either... :hyst: :hyst:) NEVER have had a stud issue.
However, on 131" builds, we do use Kibblewhite/PM studs.
I like the ARP studs that Fueling sells , they have the bottom out ring like stock ones , also the ARP heard bolts just me overkill when I was doing the 116" back in the day
With the studs I have now, the heads and/or cylinders have been off 3 times. The last time I changed the studs it was really tough getting the loctite to break free. I heated and heated and was concerned of case breakage but eventually got them out. Memories of that experience is what kept me from changing them the last time. The next time i will change them. Head bolts I always replace with new.
nothing wrong with OEM studs,no reason to replace them.defanatley no reason to replace head bolts
What happens when a bolt, or stud in this case loses it's ability to stretch under torque load is gone after re use? it puts more stress on the case that's what it does and I have seen a couple cases that had issues after they were re used 3-4 times. Have also seen two motors break headbolts on the dyno after too many times of re use. We are not talking high dollar parts here. Why would you even chance it?
Quote from: BVHOG on September 07, 2019, 07:11:45 AM
What happens when a bolt, or stud in this case loses it's ability to stretch under torque load is gone after re use? it puts more stress on the case that's what it does and I have seen a couple cases that had issues after they were re used 3-4 times. Have also seen two motors break headbolts on the dyno after too many times of re use. We are not talking high dollar parts here. Why would you even chance it?
I don't believe the idea is to save a few bucks...I believe it's to save the threads in the cases. :nix:
Evo stud problems didn't carry over to the Twin Cams IMHO.