HarleyTechTalk

2010 Road Glide  96 at stage 1 with original 2-1  decatted  with Fuel Moto Jackpot muffler and Power Vision tuner compensator eliminator now. I want more torque not sure which way I'm going to go. Possibly Andrews 408 cam, clean up heads  new lifters, push rods, oil pump. Hillside Machine is 3 hours away. Bike is used for local country rides and occasional trips. Want low to mid torque 100 plus torque in my rideable range.

That's a good recipe,but you'll need a 103 or 107 to get that torque number.

Here's a 103 with Andrews 48's and head work. It's into the 100+ torque range.

As far as how much will the lower end take? I'd stop where you are with mild cams and head work. How it's ridden plays a bigger part in lower end damage then how much power the motor makes.


https://harleytechtalk.com/htt/index.php/topic,104795.0.html

FYI, just in case you didn't know, you can bore your 96" cylinders to a 103" easily and buy new pistons while you have the heads off.

Also curious what a Timken bearing set up in lower end cost? If I do 107 I want lower end without worries. My other bike 2000 Softail I installed a Headquarters 95 10.5,0034HQ cam, HQ heads, E Series 2-1 has great riding power 98hp 108tq. Just interested in torque 100+.

Quote from: cpiccarr on September 25, 2023, 03:34:50 AMAlso curious what a Timken bearing set up in lower end cost? If I do 107 I want lower end without worries. My other bike 2000 Softail I installed a Headquarters 95 10.5,0034HQ cam, HQ heads, E Series 2-1 has great riding power 98hp 108tq. Just interested in torque 100+.

I have that cam and 10 to 1 in a 2005 FLHRCI. Never had it on a dyno.

Quote from: cpiccarr on September 25, 2023, 03:34:50 AMAlso curious what a Timken bearing set up in lower end cost? If I do 107 I want lower end without worries. My other bike 2000 Softail I installed a Headquarters 95 10.5,0034HQ cam, HQ heads, E Series 2-1 has great riding power 98hp 108tq. Just interested in torque 100+.

Don't waste your money on a Timken conversion. The newer Lefty bearing setup is way more than good. How many do you hear of failing? Its not what fails on a stock crank and there's as many running way more power than you will be with no Timken.
It's one of those issues with just as many people don't see a need for than do.
They can actually hinder self alignment if not setup properly since cases are no longer line bored.
A guy I know from S&S that put my S&S crank in refuses to even take your money for a Timken.

If you are worried about crank issues then the crank is what needs addressing, send it off to darkhorse or the like and you won't have worry about it anymore.

Quote from: 60Gunner on October 13, 2023, 10:50:07 PM

Quote from: cpiccarr on September 25, 2023, 03:34:50 AMAlso curious what a Timken bearing set up in lower end cost? If I do 107 I want lower end without worries. My other bike 2000 Softail I installed a Headquarters 95 10.5,0034HQ cam, HQ heads, E Series 2-1 has great riding power 98hp 108tq. Just interested in torque 100+.

Don't waste your money on a Timken conversion. The newer Lefty bearing setup is way more than good. How many do you hear of failing? Its not what fails on a stock crank and there's as many running way more power than you will be with no Timken.
It's one of those issues with just as many people don't see a need for than do.
They can actually hinder self alignment if not setup properly since cases are no longer line bored.
A guy I know from S&S that put my S&S crank in refuses to even take your money for a Timken.

I'm afraid that I'm not up to speed on this. Not including the Timken, what is the "newer" lefty bearing setup vs the "older" lefty bearing setup? Thanks

Quote from: billbuilds on October 14, 2023, 02:51:20 AM

Quote from: 60Gunner on October 13, 2023, 10:50:07 PM

Quote from: cpiccarr on September 25, 2023, 03:34:50 AMAlso curious what a Timken bearing set up in lower end cost? If I do 107 I want lower end without worries. My other bike 2000 Softail I installed a Headquarters 95 10.5,0034HQ cam, HQ heads, E Series 2-1 has great riding power 98hp 108tq. Just interested in torque 100+.

Don't waste your money on a Timken conversion. The newer Lefty bearing setup is way more than good. How many do you hear of failing? Its not what fails on a stock crank and there's as many running way more power than you will be with no Timken.
It's one of those issues with just as many people don't see a need for than do.
They can actually hinder self alignment if not setup properly since cases are no longer line bored.
A guy I know from S&S that put my S&S crank in refuses to even take your money for a Timken.

I'm afraid that I'm not up to speed on this. Not including the Timken, what is the "newer" lefty bearing setup vs the "older" lefty bearing setup? Thanks

https://www.harley-davidson.com/us/en/shop/screamin-eagle-lefty-bearing/p/24004-03B

Not something you will do yourself. Done in conjunction with Crank work or replacing with an S&S.

Personally I would do an S&S and the lefty bearing on both sides. I did and I'm doing 127/126 with no compensator.

That said, plenty of builds making more power than you will running on the stock crank.
Check run out then decide is my advice. Easy for some to spend other people's money. 

 I am in NY and going to talk to Hillside see what they like for my Road Glide and riding style. Thanks

If you like to ride the interstates fast then maybe a cam change to get more top end is the way to go. If you ride mostly country roads and just want more dig out of corners then maybe a gearing change would be a better solution to more cam.

I guess we need to know more about your riding style?

Bogie

I left my 2010 RG at 96" and put in 48 cams the first year I owned it. Got a FuelMoto head pipe and Power Vision. Fuel Moto supplied a base map and I have auto-tuned and tweaked it but have never put it on a Dyno. I have been very happy with the low/midrange torque and HP for the last 60,000 miles. Very rideable on the interstate, country roads or city traffic. I really like the 96". It never runs hot and no need for compression releases. I like how it accelerates so it really doesn't matter what the torque number is. Great ride for cross country touring. But I have blown a lot of money on engine work on previous bikes over the years before I learned what works for me.

Thanks all, As the bike is now 96cui. I'm Stage 1 with FM air filter , Power Vision, pipe is stock factory 2-1 (only year for this pipe) decatted with FM slip on and Vulcan compensator eliminator. Going to talk to Hillside Andrews 48 cams, lifters push rods, bearings. I think that will work. Suspension is done Ohlins in back Race Tech emulators up front better brakes , 14" KST bars all done. Just ride it.

Don't forget that the 2010 engine does not have button screws that prevent the crank pinion bearing from walking out of the bearing bore.  The 2007 - 2010 engines are like this.  H-D woke up in 2011 and began installing these retaining screws due to numerous situations where the crank pinion bearing walked outward.  I would imagine that a more powerful engine would increase the chance that the bearing might walk.  Some may recall that I've taken extreme measures to prevent this on a 124" I built.

Quote from: les on October 16, 2023, 07:04:38 AMDon't forget that the 2010 engine does not have button screws that prevent the crank pinion bearing from walking out of the bearing bore.  The 2007 - 2010 engines are like this.  H-D woke up in 2011 and began installing these retaining screws due to numerous situations where the crank pinion bearing walked outward.  I would imagine that a more powerful engine would increase the chance that the bearing might walk.  Some may recall that I've taken extreme measures to prevent this on a 124" I built.

Good point and it has definitely happened. My 13 not only has the screws but the DT pump sits pretty much tight to the screws as even more added insurance.
I would think if his pinion run out was good he could drill and tap for the screws and add them.
Of course even if pinion run out was good there's no guarantee it will stay that way either. Many have taken the chance. The moco's tolerance on this is excessive tho and leads to pump gerator  and cam plate scoring and leaking between the two.

That's quite the insurance policy against the race walking you did there. Nice job.

Thanks all for the great information. I am going to try and be a realist on how I ride and what I need not to go into overkill mode. Just want to ride have a bit more torque without loosing dependability.