HarleyTechTalk

Is there a tool for collapsing the valve springs without pulling the heads so I can change the valve seals.

Yes, found here. Nub tools.

    This tool is worth every penny. Even if you only use it once it will pay for itself in time saved, head gaskets etc., actual work involved and frustration.  You can do a set of seals and be riding in a few hours if you are organized.   

Got the tool, very nice easy to use in a perfect world. My world sometimes is not perfect. everything was going great till rear cylinder exhaust valve. very tight for my fat fingers. Thought I had the keepers in place right but when I backed off on the spring one was sticking up above valve and before I could grab it it went flying. searched for it for an hr gave up and used another set. All this time the compressor is running. When all the valves were done I turned the motor over to make sure everything was good and went inside for some food. when UI came back out went to turn it over again before putting it back together and it would not turn over WT--. Took  out the bore scope to look inside and the front cylinder walls were shinny and the rear were an orange color. I had no idea what that was but really had no choice but to pull the head. it was a very humid day and when the compressor was running it was pumping water into the rear cylinder and it rusted so bad the piston would not pass it. I had just drained to compressor but being so humid it just got more water in the air. My fault I never thought to put a dryer on the compressor because It was for nail guns and they get oiled every time I use them. SO the tool was great if any one wants to use it send me a PM and we can work something out
Bike ran great after but the next day I tore the bolts out of the rear pully and had to call a tow truck. HP is a lot of fun but cost a lot of $

I appreciate your post, but "Liking" it didn't seem right. Sorry you're having so many issues.
But once done, you'll be handily beating your friends again!

I never even considered that! Thanks for sharing your misfortune, you may well save a brother some heart ache 👍

Yeah it sound like using a can of motor fogger would be a good idea before using the compressed air. That and get the piston to top dead center and use a Jim's Flywheel Locking Tool.

Thanks for sharing what happened.

Interesting, I wouldn't expect a cylinder in good condition would use so much air volume .

For decades I have fed a foot or more soft 1/4" rope into the plug hole at just about TDC compression so both valves are closed.  You don't always have air available and the rope probably holds better.  High gear with the brake held on hard is usually enough.

I did put piston to TDC but after an hr or so the moister got past the piston and ran down the back of the cylinder. When I turned over the motor the rings must have wiped off the little bit of oil on the wall and it rusted. I locked the bike in 6th gear held the brake on with a bungee and put it against the wall so it would stay TDC. I was thinking to use rope, but air just seamed easier. Learned a lot the hard way. Hope this can save some one headache's.

I just had to do this on my '15 due to broken intake spring on rear cylinder.
I was very fortunate as the valve did not drop or even contact the piston due the way the spring broke.
Used the Goodson tool, which looks identical to the one in the link above. Replaced all four springs while we were there.
Issues: had a leak as well when on the front cylinder. Could hear the air coming out the mufflers. It was a bad ACR. Swapped out front and rear ACR to verify and the leak quit.
I highly recommend the Goodson tool by the way. https://goodson.com/products/cf-hdif-v-twin-on-engine-spring-compressor
Agree with getting piston to TDC with pushrods out.