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Wheel bearings

Started by HogMike, August 02, 2019, 08:39:28 AM

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HogMike

Anyone else had wheel bearings go bad on a new bike?
Mine also impacted the abs system.
2019 cvo limited , 6000 miles
:nix:
HOGMIKE
SoCal

chaos901

I've had lots of wheel bearings go bad, but not in only 6,000 miles.  Doing any riding on the beach?
"There are only two truly infinite things, the universe and stupidity." AE

IronButt70

Quote from: HOGMIKE on August 02, 2019, 08:39:28 AM
Anyone else had wheel bearings go bad on a new bike?
Mine also impacted the abs system.
2019 cvo limited , 6000 miles
:nix:
Have heard of failures at 10k miles. The ABS sensor reads a strip that is in the bearing as it rotates. That would probably explain the ABS problem. Warranty?
No one else put you on the road you're on. It's your own asphalt.

No Cents

  on my 08 street glide I replaced the factory wheel bearings with these ceramic bearings.

[attach=0]

  I couldn't be more pleased with the performance of these ceramic bearings. They do cost more...but you get what you pay for.
08 FLHX my grocery getter, 124ci, wfolarry 110" heads, Burns pipe, 158/152 sae

HogMike

Quote from: No Cents on August 02, 2019, 11:38:21 AM
  on my 08 street glide I replaced the factory wheel bearings with these ceramic bearings.

[attach=0,msg1309545]

  I couldn't be more pleased with the performance of these ceramic bearings. They do cost more...but you get what you pay for.

Those would be nice but, not too sure the dealer would do that under warranty! My dealer is getting lots better with customer service.
My other bikes had bearings go bad, but that was usually close to 100,000 miles.
I'm hoping this was just an anomaly.
Yes the abs bearing messes up the abs system and you get a sort of partial abs activation. Feels pretty weird.
:nix:
HOGMIKE
SoCal

jamminhd2000

The earliest I have seen em bad was at about 23k miles....as soon as I saw that I replaced all of my bearings on my bike at 50k miles good or not.....jimmy

Screamin beagle

Quote from: No Cents on August 02, 2019, 11:38:21 AM
  on my 08 street glide I replaced the factory wheel bearings with these ceramic bearings.

[attach=0,msg1309545]

  I couldn't be more pleased with the performance of these ceramic bearings. They do cost more...but you get what you pay for.
I've been looking at those ceramic bearings but can't find ones with the abs strip in it....have you found any ?

No Cents

  they offer both non- ABS, and ABS ceramic bearings.
My bike took the ABS bearings.
08 FLHX my grocery getter, 124ci, wfolarry 110" heads, Burns pipe, 158/152 sae

ThumperDeuce

Idiots are fun, no wonder every village wants one.

Hossamania

If the government gives you everything you want,
it can take away everything you have.

No Cents

  Hoss...the front and rear ceramic bearings for my ABS bike was just a touch under $400.00 way back in 2014. In a few months those bearing will have 5 years on them. They have taken a pounding with some hard wheelies slammed down on them over the years. I'm talking about the "oh "Potty mouth"" type wheelies, where the back fender is almost dragging the street.  :doh:  They definitely have with stood the pounding I've gave them over the past 5 years.
08 FLHX my grocery getter, 124ci, wfolarry 110" heads, Burns pipe, 158/152 sae

boooby1744

I have them also, and at the same time also took a few lbs off the bike. Much easier to move around .
Nice video, there's also a good article in Drag Bike magazine,it's probably on the second or third page in the tech section by now.

1workinman

Quote from: No Cents on August 03, 2019, 12:05:35 PM
  Hoss...the front and rear ceramic bearings for my ABS bike was just a touch under $400.00 way back in 2014. In a few months those bearing will have 5 years on them. They have taken a pounding with some hard wheelies slammed down on them over the years. I'm talking about the "oh "Potty mouth"" type wheelies, where the back fender is almost dragging the street.  :doh:  They definitely have with stood the pounding I've gave them over the past 5 years.
Pictures lol next time I do the wheel bearings I give them a try thanks

barny7655

Id be looking at the cause of the failed bearing , take it apart and have a look at it ,mainly the sides where the ball runs ,outer and inner races ,be sure that the spacer tube is the right length,not to short as to put undue pressure on the bearings, found most failed ones are due to im proper bearing install,and not pressed in on the inner bearing case,must be outer case, to meet the inner tube, so when the axel is torqued up to specs the rollers are mid point in the  race, and not hitting the inner or outer edges of the race ,cheers Barny
riding since 62, BSA bantum the first bike

HogMike

Quote from: barny7655 on August 04, 2019, 08:12:45 PM
Id be looking at the cause of the failed bearing , take it apart and have a look at it ,mainly the sides where the ball runs ,outer and inner races ,be sure that the spacer tube is the right length,not to short as to put undue pressure on the bearings, found most failed ones are due to im proper bearing install,and not pressed in on the inner bearing case,must be outer case, to meet the inner tube, so when the axel is torqued up to specs the rollers are mid point in the  race, and not hitting the inner or outer edges of the race ,cheers Barny

I would hope the tech at the dealership would like to know the "why" they both failed not just slap some new ones in and send you on your way.
:nix:
HOGMIKE
SoCal

barny7655

There are always reasons for this type a failure , its old school to investigate as to why ,then work out solution ,fix the problem , not as a repair as it will come back to bite you , these are single row bearings,  and install is critical ,the HD mechanics arent worrried of the whys, they just repair , may be the bearing was faulty from the start ?, warrenty item ,get back to us of their solution , cheers
riding since 62, BSA bantum the first bike

HogMike

Quote from: barny7655 on August 05, 2019, 01:20:54 AM
There are always reasons for this type a failure , its old school to investigate as to why ,then work out solution ,fix the problem , not as a repair as it will come back to bite you , these are single row bearings,  and install is critical ,the HD mechanics arent worrried of the whys, they just repair , may be the bearing was faulty from the start ?, warrenty item ,get back to us of their solution , cheers

At this point I have to let the dealer do any repairs their way because the bike is new and under warranty.
I'm loosing confidence that this bike will be reliable after the warranty is up. I didn't buy this bike to keep bringing it back to the dealer for all the various repairs.
It seems that only the most recent 2016 and newer touring bikes have had multiple issues.
My older 2009 and 2010 and 2014 were trouble free and many many miles.
Is QC the issue? Don't know, but it looks like this is my last new Harley.
:nix:
HOGMIKE
SoCal

IronButt70

Quote from: HOGMIKE on August 05, 2019, 05:07:44 AM
Quote from: barny7655 on August 05, 2019, 01:20:54 AM
There are always reasons for this type a failure , its old school to investigate as to why ,then work out solution ,fix the problem , not as a repair as it will come back to bite you , these are single row bearings,  and install is critical ,the HD mechanics arent worrried of the whys, they just repair , may be the bearing was faulty from the start ?, warrenty item ,get back to us of their solution , cheers

At this point I have to let the dealer do any repairs their way because the bike is new and under warranty.
I'm loosing confidence that this bike will be reliable after the warranty is up. I didn't buy this bike to keep bringing it back to the dealer for all the various repairs.
It seems that only the most recent 2016 and newer touring bikes have had multiple issues.
My older 2009 and 2010 and 2014 were trouble free and many many miles.
Is QC the issue? Don't know, but it looks like this is my last new Harley.
:nix:
It's the 17 and newer tourers with the M8 that seem to have the most issues. My 17 softail with the TC is set up for touring and the only issue was the rear caliper that was replaced under warranty. Because I ride a lot out of state I bought the 3 year ESP (not from the dealer) for piece of mind. 45k miles and counting.
No one else put you on the road you're on. It's your own asphalt.

PoorUB

Quote from: HOGMIKE on August 05, 2019, 05:07:44 AM
It seems that only the most recent 2016 and newer touring bikes have had multiple issues.
My older 2009 and 2010 and 2014 were trouble free and many many miles.
Is QC the issue? Don't know, but it looks like this is my last new Harley.
:nix:

My 2016 has been trouble free, 28,000 miles on it.

Like the other post, it came one with the M8 in 2017.
I am an adult?? When did that happen, and how do I make it stop?!

BillyBob

So now that we're on the subject, I have a question.I ride a 2005 RK which I replaced the wheel bearings on 10,000 miles ago. It is now in some serious crap because one of them failed. Obviously something I did wrong. Just got it back from the dealer after he said they were going to have to cut the swing arm to get the rear axle out. $1400.00 part just that. I said I would come and get it so it's in my shop as we speak. Here's my question- if you consider that the bearings sit in what are effectively cups, one on each side of the hub, measuring the distance between the bottom of the cups will give you a dimension. should that be the exact dimension of the length of the spacer in the axle, a few thousands less, a few thousands more?

chaos901

QuoteJust got it back from the dealer after he said they were going to have to cut the swing arm to get the rear axle out.


Don't know the answer to your question, but to the above, surely the axel can be "driven" out.  Even if you have to take the swing arm off the bike with the axel still in place.
"There are only two truly infinite things, the universe and stupidity." AE

Hossamania

Quote from: chaos901 on August 05, 2019, 11:01:12 AM
QuoteJust got it back from the dealer after he said they were going to have to cut the swing arm to get the rear axle out.


Don't know the answer to your question, but to the above, surely the axel can be "driven" out.  Even if you have to take the swing arm off the bike with the axel still in place.

I agree. Worst case, cut the the axle, right through the spacers if need be, remove the wheel, and go from there.
If the government gives you everything you want,
it can take away everything you have.

BillyBob

Well I thought so, but after I pounded on it pretty good, I decided to bite the bullet and take it to Harley. I was afraid I was going to damage the swing arm. Surely I thought they have seen this before , and have an idea how hard you can hit it or some other trick method to get it out. Looks like they cut the head ( left side) of the axle off and tried to drive it out to the right. No go. I told them if you have to sacrifice something, how about the wheel? Cheaper than the swing arm. I plan to try to cut the axle and spacers with a cutoff disc. I realize it won't be easy, but that's my first choice. Hell, you can buy everything between the rear fork, that is, wheel, spacers, axle, and caliper for less than the swing arm itself. I did find another swing arm just in case though.

Hossamania

Try a Sawzall to cut through the spacers and axle, I think it would get in there easier than a cut off wheel.
If the government gives you everything you want,
it can take away everything you have.

koko3052

I would just make a press, with  the arms holding a plate on the opposite side of the swingarm, that way everything is compacted & only pressing the axle. I have NEVER seen anything that tight & can't see a reason for it. A couple pieces 3/4" all thread, a couple heavy plates & a small bottle jack....has to be cheaper than buying the axle & spacers?
Before trying that I would use an air chisel with a punch end on it, have someone back up the other side with something very stout. Drill a little divit on the end where you'll be using the air punch so you don't flare that end. A "rattle" will move more than heavy pounding!