I know I used to use Brake Kleen on my Shovel clutch discs. My '02 Manual says just wipe them but I want to clean them for one last try at a good release. I have read a couple threads and want to try this before major surgery (not me, the bike). I suspect excessive shaft endplay is the culprit on this '04 SE six speed OD.
Before anyone says anything, the stack is good and I replaced two steels that were a little out of spec., basket is good, oil level is good although I am going to lower it a bit. OEM cable is reasonably new but will check it for collapse. Throw out bearing is new. I think it was Racepres that had a different method of setting and I will try that also.
I will build a mounting plate for my dial gauge today a get a measurement of release distance.
After cleaning the discs they should be put in oil for a few minutes, correct?
:scratch:... :banghead:
I've cleaned my stock 01 discs a few times with just brakekleen and let them dry and reinstalled. They have about 67,000 mi on them. Never oiled after cleaning.. Right or wrong not oiling them doesn't seem to make any difference in longevity from here.
Varsol / solvent has always worked for me. I use a brush to get a deep clean and blow dry. When they look dry I do a few light figure 8's on 220 using a glass plate on a level surface. Any discrepancies will show in steel or fiber discs.
What is the concern you are chasing down?
Same thing kd. Heavy clutch drag. The new/used basket didn't fix what I figured was the issue. Swapped the Mueller ramps out for stock. No change. The saga continues...If all else fails, I'll put the stock 5 speed back in..BTW, I checked everything on 220 already but will give them a couple 8s when clean.
If you still have it together, take it for a ride where you can run in 3rd gear at 2500 or more actually pulling load. (2nd gear may work fine too) Pull in on the clutch lever to take up the free play slack and do on and off roll on and back off sharply cycles. The roll on doesn't have to be hard but should be pulling the bike's weight. If you feel in and out movement in the lever, that is the main shaft moving horizontally in the case due to the helical cut gear angle in the first few gears. It is normal to be able to feel it slightly but not so normal for it to be pronounced. If pronounced it may indicate a worn or failing main shaft bearing (in the trap door usually) or even the release bearing or both. This is something that may or may not show up with your dial gauge in a static test.
In your static test try to set up 2 dial gauges so one is monitoring the main shaft. Push the main shaft in before pulling the lever to release the clutch. Check it at the lever when you do it to see if it is physically detectable at that point. Outward movement on the main shaft is lost pressure plate travel. Again, some minor travel could be expected due to wear or fit of the bearing, pushrod free play adjustment etc. and I think you will know that if and when you see it. You may want to adjust the free play out of the pushrod so you will get an accurate measurement of the free play after the test and that will relate to any possible bearing play because you will mask it when there is no slack. Main shaft travel minus a couple thou or so plus pressure plate is your actual available pushrod stroke travel.
That should be as clear as mud but I hope it adds to your search parameters. :teeth:
Thanks kd. I know the bearings are moving in the trap door. This has been an issue for quite a while and I think it might be the culprit. Typical for me to run it until it becomes a pronounced issue. Cleaning the discs now and will measure everything....
If the bearings are moving enough that can cause issues with the clutch. If you're at the point you can lay your fingers across the clutch lever, then while going down the road roll the throttle on and off, if you feel the lever move under your fingers, it's getting bad.
The Baker Street Door will stop that as they use a wider bearing and they're clamped into the door with a screw down plate.
(https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1034/8027/products/baker-drivetrain-street-harley-davidson-transmission-door.jpg?v=1490632348)
Thanks for that Ohio. I'll look into it but I kind of doubt they have one for this obsolete, seldom seen unit...
You're right, I missed that you're working with a five speed. The Street Door is for a six speed.
Randy, FortNine has a few different manufacturers of trap doors. I didn't check them for brg size to compare to Baker but when you get time .... :teeth:
Quote from: Ohio HD on July 11, 2021, 10:23:04 AM
You're right, I missed that you're working with a five speed. The Street Door is for a six speed.
I'm working with an '04 (IIRC) SE Six Speed Overdrive. Some parts are the same as the five speed but not the trap door.
Quote from: kd on July 11, 2021, 10:53:49 AM
Randy, FortNine has a few different manufacturers of trap doors. I didn't check them for brg size to compare to Baker but when you get time .... :teeth:
:up:
If you "feel" those bearings "walking" maybe you could build a couple shims just to try & verify that's the issue before looking at new trap doors? :potstir:
Yeah....I'll be visiting you! :teeth: I'll get the wife to start baking...
I have always used Brake Kleen to clean discs for years & it's always worked fine for me. I find that Brake Kleen is one of the handiest things ever invented lol :up: :up:
~John
Turns out it was a KISS moment. The clutch basket was needed as was the new/used clutch pack but what was really needed IMHO was a good clean on the fibers. Works great now. I will still address the end play when there is snow on the ground.
I got to do a whole lot of the stuff that needed to be done in the process... :baby: