I brought my bike to the dealer for noisy lifters, on diss assembly they found the lifter bores were scored, what causes lifter bores to become scored? The bike is 2013 CVO 110 motor with 90,000 km's lifters were replaced about 30,000 km's ago.
Hey RayK, I can only commiserate my with you.
Not from any experience personally, but being lucky it didn't happen or hasn't happened to me yet.
Lifters seem to get a lot of attention and there will be and has been much discussion on solutions and causes.
Lots of guys change lifters out and consider them as consumables until they find a set that seems to work.
Not much help right now, but sit tight others will have more for you (recommendations and plausible causes) shortly.
http://harleytechtalk.com/htt/index.php?topic=109592.0
Rob
Scored lifter bores likely means some debris in the oil. I would take the oil filter apart and inspect in the pleats for signs of metal.
Quote from: choseneasy on July 24, 2019, 05:37:17 AM
Scored lifter bores likely means some debris in the oil. I would take the oil filter apart and inspect in the pleats for signs of metal.
:agree: good place to start. Bob
These are grooves, you can feel them?
What do the bores measure?
I don't know the specific measurements, it's at the dealer. All I know is there are scores in the bore radially , the lifters were getting louder in the past few weeks. There is an issue with leak test on the heads and the cam plate is scored, only 30,000 km's on the heads. Dealer wants to replace the engine.
In a dealer situation that is the way they would respond. Sounds like there is a lot going on there
Replace the engine or totally rebuild it. Dealers are typically going to replace. Seems to me something has failed and run trash throughout the engine.
Dealer said they will repair main cases recondition the heads and replace everything else with new,
:up:
Quote from: RayK on August 03, 2019, 05:52:10 AM
Dealer said they will repair main cases recondition the heads and replace everything else with new,
I would insist on new cases. Many BS and wag around this topic. There are very few shops that can properly sleeve the lifter bores and if that is done then no issue. I would ask the questions. What does "recondition" mean?
Update; ESP has authorized the replacement of the cases, the only parts from my old motor will be the heads which will have new valves, valve seats and valve guides. Should I re dyno after the build?
I would replace the oil pan and oil cooler as well. JMO
Quote from: Durwood on August 09, 2019, 04:41:43 AM
I would replace the oil pan and oil cooler as well. JMO
Sage advice. :up:
Not sure about the oil pan but they are replacing the cooler.
Late model pans have a riveted on baffle cover, makes them hard to clean unless they drill out the rivets and remove the cover. Easier to replace, than worry about chunks floating into a new engine...
Bores can be sleeved,not a big deal for a good shop
Have they tore the engine down and determined what caused the problem
They couldn't find anything obvious some scuffing in the cylinder bores, good news is my heads are coming back with bee-hive springs, bronze looking valve guides upgraded seats and flowed and the gasket area resurfaced.
Picked up the bike and rode it home, this motor is a lot smoother than the other one, and less lifter noise although when hot still doing some clacking, going to do a break in, hope these heads are going to be a big improvement over the stock HD ones.
The noise is the nature of the beast. If it has stock cams the lobes have high acceleration rates. The HD lifters bleed off, aftermarket not as bad. The beehive springs touted as the proper pressure have just as much or greater spring pressure than the stockers. I use a conical spring on them with only 140# seat pressure but a spring rate of 435#. Keeps everything planted. Next tapping rocker shafts can be noisy too. Some issues just the evils of a twin cam others added by the 110 to the existing stack.
If the tappet bores are scored, and there was not an oil failure or really high lift cam involved, next thing to do would be to look at the cylinder bores. If they are scored, then pull a jug and look for imbedded steel in the piston skirts. If the skirts sparkle, then the crank pin-bearing-rod is usually failing.
Its cheaper to replace with a crate motor, but its all fixable. The tappet holes can be reamed for oversized tappets, or they can be bushed with brass inserts.
Quote from: Thermodyne on September 14, 2019, 08:47:37 AM
If the tappet bores are scored, and there was not an oil failure or really high lift cam involved, next thing to do would be to look at the cylinder bores. If they are scored, then pull a jug and look for imbedded steel in the piston skirts. If the skirts sparkle, then the crank pin-bearing-rod is usually failing.
Its cheaper to replace with a crate motor, but its all fixable. The tappet holes can be reamed for oversized tappets, or they can be bushed with brass inserts.
He got new cases, I would hope they checked the rod bearings and runout, who knows?
Post #11 says they replaced everything but reused the heads after a rebuild.
Good to go!
Thanks for all the advice and comments, the engine is all new except for the heads. Bike is running strong probably get it retuned after break-in.
It is broken in already.
Not but will be this week.
Let the tuner break it in on the dyno, with the correct AFR/timing.