Hya people, just re-did the top and a valve seized after only 55miles; took it to the machine shop and discovered they had put a seal on the stem that I did not see on the book. Seal or no seal?
cheers, Lazio
-patience is passion tamed
stock did not have a seal
Vave guide oil seals will require machining of valve guide and / or collar to get the correct overall guide height
jman correct.. no seal stock. and not really needed. let some oil get to guides/valve.
that and/or clearances is why it seized. i dont know what combo you using...
i use a bronze guide with stainless valve on my hot rod. yepper it puffs a bit. just like my XR racer did/sposta. one quart every 1000 miles is normal...
too bad the machine shop took it on themselves to change it for you. they should change it back for free...
thanks...machine shop will change for free and..I never minded peeling the engine one extra time...L.
yes valve seals were not stock but i would like to know more about what combination was installed.valve seals did not cause the seized valveSalty
Make sure there is enough valve stem to guide clearance.Air cooled motors of course need more than water cooled. bring them the factory clearance specs to be sure
there is no escaping Salty..good on'ya mate, you're right it wasn't the seal that seized the valve but a combination of ; 1. overheated engine during break-in...2.bronze guide instead of iron; the R. EX. bronze guide actually came loose ...I think the machine shop was training a new mechanic on me...whatever...did not charge the second time but had to paint the whole thing again.....L.
I'm glad the valve issue is resolved.now on the break in try to follow the S&S break in procedure.(short run times at first 30 sec,60sec,90sec,etc.with full comedowns in between.no hot rodding for at least 1200mi.Salty
yea, I read about the heat cycle and I may change to a bigger jet for the break-in phase 'cause she's running real thin...L.