What are the odds of being able to utilize the stock drive belt?
Year and model? On the later touring 09 - 16 the tab for the cam has to be moved back to engage the cam for adjusting and some have had to hone the axle slot a little longer to achieve the correct belt tension. I was OK with a 31 tooth belt fit but others will have to help you with their experience with 30 tooth fit info.
2012 s.g. i have seen guys adding material & elongating the slot in the arm. And I've heard of others making it work but at the very end of the adjustment. I can order a 139t belt. Just three times the work.
On 09 and later bikes, welding a 3/16" (or 1/4") X 3/4" long piece of key stock to the swingarm will move the axle back far enough. You may have to widen the slot a tiny bit, but not always. On 07-08 models, you need to use a bigger rear pulley if you want to keep the stock belt.
08 FXDF Stock belt 30T pulley. I did this years ago and the adjustment isn't a problem for mine.
It is near the end though.
Quote from: kd on July 22, 2019, 05:29:28 AM
I was OK with a 31 tooth belt fit but others will have to help you with their experience with 30 tooth fit info.
I don't care so much about mph/rpm change, but would like 1st gear start up and slow speed maneuvering to be a lot easier, especially when 2-up and loaded down. Does a 31t help here or just not enough?
It's not much,but still better than a 32.
:banghead: So, I decided to order a 30t Andrews pulley and Gates poly-chain 139t belt.
I can order a proper socket, breaker, pipe, etc.($100.) To do it myself.
Or I can pay a guy $400. Labor + misc.
I hear that 2.25" bolt can be a nightmare to break loose.
I'm by myself and would need to work off a harbor freight back ....just saying.
Quote from: JT Metal on August 10, 2019, 10:14:23 AM
:banghead:So, I decided to order a 30t Andrews pulley and Gates poly-chain 139t belt.
I can order a proper socket, breaker, pipe, etc.($100.) To do it myself.
Or I can pay a guy $400. Labor + misc.
I hear that 2.25" bolt can be a nightmare to break loose.
I'm by myself and would need to work off a harbor freight back ....just saying.
I would recommend a pulley lock tool. Sometimes that nut is a bear.
I use my big air impact to remove those nuts most of the time without the lock tool.
Not too bad if you have the right tools.
JMHO
:missed:
Just get a new nut, drill holes in it 180* apart, couple of taps with a hammer and chisel, it falls right off. I'm not usually a fan of removing things like this but I learnt the hard way on this one.
you will need pulley lock for proper install
As TN says, but drill the holes in the old nut that's on the bike! :wink: That works slick. I have all the tools & a proper lift, but the last one I just couldn't budge & I drilled it.
Right on.....drilling looks to be the easiest & cost effective alternative. So going that route.....any links to the pulley holding tool?
Yeah, the nut is cheap, like $10. Drill it and replace the nut with new. I had to replace the shaft seal on my 2010 and that nut refused to budge. Drilled it and a couple wacks with a chisel and hammer and it was off.
don't just put any old/new nut on
put on a 3guyz nut
https://www.3guyz.com/vtwin-motorcycles-topmenu#!/Sprocket-Lock-Nuts/p/6500822/category=1575036
(https://dqzrr9k4bjpzk.cloudfront.net/images/698160/18213532.jpg)
I buy my specialty tools from Georges-garage.com when you call you speak with George himself and tools are high quality with the fastest service available.
there are other options available too.
[attach=0]
:up:
Anyone use this to install/remove transmission drive sprocket?
I recommend you use the lock bar device that goes between the two sprockets. The wedge applies side pressure to the shaft and the bar does not. DO a search on the site and you will find the measurement for your year and model. You can make one easy.
Quote from: JT Metal on August 11, 2019, 10:19:34 AM
Anyone use this to install/remove transmission drive sprocket?
That's made to hold the primary drive when loosening the compensator and clutch hub nuts. Wont work for the belt pulley.
Ahhh .... I forgot what this thread was about. :embarrassed:
Quote from: rigidthumper on August 11, 2019, 10:40:18 AM
Quote from: JT Metal on August 11, 2019, 10:19:34 AM
Anyone use this to install/remove transmission drive sprocket?
That's made to hold the primary drive when loosening the compensator and clutch hub nuts. Wont work for the belt pulley.
Do you have a part that does? It's going to the garbage when I'm done.
Quote from: kd on August 11, 2019, 10:32:03 AM
I recommend you use the lock bar device that goes between the two sprockets. The wedge applies side pressure to the shaft and the bar does not. DO a search on the site and you will find the measurement for your year and model. You can make one easy.
I've seen that as well. I'll get the bar. Any suggestions to hold the pulley behind the primary to hold while I crank it down?
Here's the cheapest one I've found: https://www.ebay.com/itm/SPECIALTY-TOOLS-HARLEY-DAVIDSON-JIMS-PULLEY-LOCK-TOOL-2260/383098707447?epid=171217880&hash=item5932765df7:g:~F8AAOSwyVRdUDju
Quote from: rigidthumper on August 11, 2019, 10:49:28 AM
Here's the cheapest one I've found: https://www.ebay.com/itm/SPECIALTY-TOOLS-HARLEY-DAVIDSON-JIMS-PULLEY-LOCK-TOOL-2260/383098707447?epid=171217880&hash=item5932765df7:g:~F8AAOSwyVRdUDju
Right on...... thank you!
Have belt & pulley
ordered the correct bar, 2.25" socket & 70t.
Going to eBay the locking tool.
I'll get gaskets & seals locally.
Anything else I'm forgetting?
Any other way to hold pulley from moving? This piece for the money is perfect. Just don't want to wait till the 23rd or pay $50 more from another source.
Last time I did it, I put the pulley on and snugged up the nut, put on the belt and had a friend hold down the rear brake.
Check the Homemade Tool Section here on HTT. Low budget and seems to work though I've not tried it myself.
longshooter
Homemade tool section! You've got to be shittin' me! I'll scope it out.
Yes.....I'll give the brake & maybe something else a go of it.
Funny. The tool I showed is $99.00 but I can buy it locally for $200. Plus tax. I'm like..."no way!"
I did it having the brake applied.
Quote from: Barrett on August 11, 2019, 03:50:18 PM
I did it having the brake applied.
gonna give that a try! Barrett, is the torque procedure 35lbs & 45° past?
Does the inner primary race have to come off to get trans pulley out?
No
if needed you could pop the trannie top and slide the selectors so it's in 2 gears at the same time , i.e. locked up
Quote from: TN on August 10, 2019, 11:29:30 AM
Just get a new nut, drill holes in it 180* apart, couple of taps with a hammer and chisel, it falls right off.
Have not heard of this method.
Can you expound a bit?
What size bit, etc?
The nut is surprisingly pretty soft steel. Drill two hols 180 degrees apart, through the face of the nut, right at the flats. There isn't much metal left at the drilled holes and the nut will split easily.
Quote from: PoorUB on August 12, 2019, 10:34:19 AM
The nut is surprisingly pretty soft steel. Drill two hols 180 degrees apart, through the face of the nut, right at the flats. There isn't much metal left at the drilled holes and the nut will split easily.
:up: :beer:
Is there a recommended bit size?
I am guessing just small enough to clear the threads but big enough to cut plenty metal out of the width of the nut.
You feel like a real idiot when after repeatedly telling yourself "don't nick the threads".... you nick the threads.
Heard it from a friend.
1/4" drill bit.
Quote from: PoorUB on August 13, 2019, 05:57:53 AM
1/4" drill bit.
Thanks poorUB.....
I won't nic the treads.....I won't nic the treads.....lol
put a hose clamp over the threads to keep the bit away
Threads don't stick out past the nut.... at least on my 15 Limited :idunno: