I am an owner of a 2009 Streetbob,l and I am looking for a setup that would allow me to cruise in 6Th gear without the struggle I have now. About the bike, it has an Andrews 57 that I advanced 4 degrees, imitating Joe Lyons on his early bike. I also have a TTS tuner ( blue dongle ). Now I know I should get it tuned by a pro, we have 2 good ones that I am aware of H-D Faribault (Jason Kelis ), and Dyno Guys ( Matt Smith ) in Minnesota. I have heard nothing but good reviews about them. OK here's the dilemma, I want to build either a 103 or a 110. I want a torque bike and not so worried about high HP. I want to keep my Andrews 57 cam, and possibly go to Rick Wards and have him do the heads. I also have WFO Larry in mind and Dan Vance as well. The heads coming off will at least get manual compression releases and CC'd to 85 CC's. I am thinking to have my setup be either a 103 set at 10.43-1 CR and CCP set to 203 @ sea level ( Bean's calculator ) using CP pistons, or the 110 set to 10.42 CR and CCP set to 203 @ sea level ( Bean's calculator ) using Wiseco pistons. One thing I don't want to do is split the cases and buy a new crank. So I am sticking my neck out here and hoping that I could do a 110, but am prepared to do a 103 (which would be 600 dollars cheaper). I have an extra set of cylinders that are 96" CI to bore. My Indy likes Wiseco Pistons and I have heard others like KP and CP pistons as well so another crap shoot. I have done a bastardized pipe that Joe Lyons tried but instead of the thunderheader muffler I used a 3" straight muffler with a 2.5 perforated baffle. My 96 has a good amount of snort as is and keeps up with standard 103's, I just want a little bit more to be able to use 6th gear at 70 mph.
IMO the easiest path to torque is cubic inches. More is always better. :wink:
And talk to your tuner (and Wards) about the choices you are looking at.
Matt at Dyno Guys is on top of his game, for sure.
I've been told that Jason may now be mobile, supposedly he was doing some tuning at St. Paul recently. He is one of the best.
A 30T pulley will get you there. Doing a bunch more engine work is nice but in the end the gearing isn't right for 6th@70.
Unless you get it measured, you'll never know where you're at. I'd guess something like like 88 TQ (+/- 4%) and 75 HP.
Another way to get some displacement without spending a fortune is 107 pistons & bore job from Suburban.
Cheapest option yet is a 70 tooth rear.....with a little ingenuity you can use the same belt. :potstir:
Quote from: koko3052 on August 01, 2019, 12:32:56 PM
Cheapest option yet is a 70 tooth rear.....with a little ingenuity you can use the same belt. :potstir:
110 drop on kit set @ 10.7 with 585 S&S ES Heads ported with 1.9/1.6. Good bang for the buck especially if your keeping the stock crank. SE kit with 83cc heads and a .030 head gasket. Effortless cruising in 6th with this combo on a street bob. Bob
A properly assembled 103" will run nicely, but like others have said, "no replacement for displacement". I would consider a 110 kit. I have no issues with Andrews 57's, but if you are doing all this work cams are cheap, get the right cam for the build. Plus I don't know how you come up with 85CC heads when you don't know what bore size you re going to run. Bore, cams, chamber size all needs to be decided as a package.
What is your budget? 103" flat top money, with 124" desires?
You don't need to spend a ton on the heads if you're keeping the 57's. Here's a sheet from Joe Lyons' shop FB page you might wanna look into. It's all about the combination.
Quote from: Weyrider on August 01, 2019, 10:39:04 AM
I am an owner of a 2009 Streetbob,l and I am looking for a setup that would allow me to cruise in 6Th gear without the struggle I have now. About the bike, it has an Andrews 57 that I advanced 4 degrees, imitating Joe Lyons on his early bike. I also have a TTS tuner ( blue dongle ). Now I know I should get it tuned by a pro, we have 2 good ones that I am aware of H-D Faribault (Jason Kelis ), and Dyno Guys ( Matt Smith ) in Minnesota. I have heard nothing but good reviews about them. OK here's the dilemma, I want to build either a 103 or a 110. I want a torque bike and not so worried about high HP. I want to keep my Andrews 57 cam, and possibly go to Rick Wards and have him do the heads. I also have WFO Larry in mind and Dan Vance as well. The heads coming off will at least get manual compression releases and CC'd to 85 CC's. I am thinking to have my setup be either a 103 set at 10.43-1 CR and CCP set to 203 @ sea level ( Bean's calculator ) using CP pistons, or the 110 set to 10.42 CR and CCP set to 203 @ sea level ( Bean's calculator ) using Wiseco pistons. One thing I don't want to do is split the cases and buy a new crank. So I am sticking my neck out here and hoping that I could do a 110, but am prepared to do a 103 (which would be 600 dollars cheaper). I have an extra set of cylinders that are 96" CI to bore. My Indy likes Wiseco Pistons and I have heard others like KP and CP pistons as well so another crap shoot. I have done a bastardized pipe that Joe Lyons tried but instead of the thunderheader muffler I used a 3" straight muffler with a 2.5 perforated baffle. My 96 has a good amount of snort as is and keeps up with standard 103's, I just want a little bit more to be able to use 6th gear at 70 mph.
If it was me I just add a cheap used cam like a 255 and tune it and ride . Run it till it gives it up and go a 124 . One of my favorite build is the one Matt did with SS crate motor that had Rick Ward heads and 585 camshaft with some compression and it made in the 140 square or use your cases build a good motor
A 103 with your 57, a little headwork and more compression, lower gearing should do what you want.
If you go 110 you could spin that advance sprocket over and retard the 57 into a slightly higher lift 54, you have those bits already and it works.
You don't want to be riding 70mph in 6th gear, Your 96ci its better at 5th, keep the revs up
If you want to do mods heads etc you be in 4th at 70mph then step up to 5th for better riding then up to 6th on long interstate 150kmh plus ride
Quote from: Weyrider on August 01, 2019, 10:39:04 AM
I am an owner of a 2009 Streetbob,l and I am looking for a setup that would allow me to cruise in 6Th gear without the struggle I have now. About the bike, it has an Andrews 57 that I advanced 4 degrees, imitating Joe Lyons on his early bike. I also have a TTS tuner ( blue dongle ). Now I know I should get it tuned by a pro, we have 2 good ones that I am aware of H-D Faribault (Jason Kelis ), and Dyno Guys ( Matt Smith ) in Minnesota. I have heard nothing but good reviews about them. OK here's the dilemma, I want to build either a 103 or a 110. I want a torque bike and not so worried about high HP. I want to keep my Andrews 57 cam, and possibly go to Rick Wards and have him do the heads. I also have WFO Larry in mind and Dan Vance as well. The heads coming off will at least get manual compression releases and CC'd to 85 CC's. I am thinking to have my setup be either a 103 set at 10.43-1 CR and CCP set to 203 @ sea level ( Bean's calculator ) using CP pistons, or the 110 set to 10.42 CR and CCP set to 203 @ sea level ( Bean's calculator ) using Wiseco pistons. One thing I don't want to do is split the cases and buy a new crank. So I am sticking my neck out here and hoping that I could do a 110, but am prepared to do a 103 (which would be 600 dollars cheaper). I have an extra set of cylinders that are 96" CI to bore. My Indy likes Wiseco Pistons and I have heard others like KP and CP pistons as well so another crap shoot. I have done a bastardized pipe that Joe Lyons tried but instead of the thunderheader muffler I used a 3" straight muffler with a 2.5 perforated baffle. My 96 has a good amount of snort as is and keeps up with standard 103's, I just want a little bit more to be able to use 6th gear at 70 mph.
go 107"
Consider either an S&S 110 kit or a 107" kit using KB heavy duty LCA coated pistons and save 400 dollars or so.
Our Street Pro head package, many dynos on this forum to see the potential, would work well.
In my experience with that cam and stock throttle body plus injectors horsepower will be ~1.05:1 / cubic inch so use that as a gauge to decide if the overbore is worth the cost. Torque, what you will feel on the street, will be between 120-130 peak.
The shape of the curve will be dependant on the pipe choice.
Consider Razorback Performance for the tune. Bob is on this forum, "BVHOG"
Good luck with your build.
A good point about the exhaust. Which one are you running, Weyrider?
Quote from: Hossamania on August 02, 2019, 07:34:12 AM
A good point about the exhaust. Which one are you running, Weyrider?
I am planning on the Long Bassani Road Rage or the D&D Fatcat. I like the sound of the Bassani, but I have seen what the Fatcat can do as well.
Quote from: harpwrench on August 01, 2019, 05:03:04 PM
You don't need to spend a ton on the heads if you're keeping the 57's. Here's a sheet from Joe Lyons' shop FB page you might wanna look into. It's all about the combination.
And I would be happy with that type of power.
Which exhaust are you running now?
I ran the 57's in a 103" with a "street" port done to the heads, probably more like a clean up and blend in the seats. A stock HD pistos and cylinders, a MoCo big bore kit for the 96", cast flat top "stock" 103" pistons. I did mill the heads to bump the compression to 10.3 to 1. I never had it on the dyno, but it didn't have any problem rolling in sixth gear on the highway, into triple digits. It was not a killer like some bigger inch builds, but it certainly was better over the 96".
If you are looking for bit more and not break the bank it is a good way to go.
Quote from: Hossamania on August 02, 2019, 01:27:06 PM
Which exhaust are you running now?
I am running a homebuilt based on what Joe Lyons did a few years back. I took a fatbob header, cut the catalytic converter off and welded 16 inches to the headers. had a 2-1 collector slip on that and finished with a 3" straight tube 22 inches long. I put in a 2.5" baffle inside of that. It sounds nice not so quiet while in idle, but snarls when we roll the wick up. No I haven't dynoed it either so I don't know what it is doing. Going to put a better merge collector on it, then dyno it this fall to see what I actually have. I kind of named it the BBB-(Butch's Bastard Bomb) either it is gonna help or its gonna get replaced.
That actually sounds like a pretty cool pipe, it's neat having your own piece on it. But without a Dyno test, it's hard to say if it is causing the lethargic acceleration at 70 mph. It may have a flatspot right there, and a new pipe would solve that problem.
Or that pipe might work just fine, and still work if you go bigger. (It seems to me that the 110 kits with some headwork and cams is a good bang for the buck.)
It's all about the testing and tune.
It's just money.
Quote from: PoorUB on August 02, 2019, 01:58:17 PM
I ran the 57's in a 103" with a "street" port done to the heads, probably more like a clean up and blend in the seats. A stock HD pistos and cylinders, a MoCo big bore kit for the 96", cast flat top "stock" 103" pistons. I did mill the heads to bump the compression to 10.3 to 1. I never had it on the dyno, but it didn't have any problem rolling in sixth gear on the highway, into triple digits. It was not a killer like some bigger inch builds, but it certainly was better over the 96".
If you are looking for bit more and not break the bank it is a good way to go.
My plan was exactly this (only it was with anderws 48 that was already installed in my 96"), with a game changer 32t front compensator, (70 in 6th rpms are 2800). I ended up doing a 117" build. But, for what it's worth, I've recently re-installed the game changer on the 117 as well, I just prefer the gearing.
I think you'll find (as I did) more power with the lower ratio and better mileage. I'm at 3.16 and found it to be true with a 120" almost 150 square engine (133 tq at 2700) ridden with spirit. :smiled:
If I was spending the money and taking the time, I'd do 107 or 110. And I've heard nothing but good things about those two to do the tuning, but since you're talking MN, there's a guy over in Whitehall, WI that knows a thing or two as well. Hit up BVBOB.
Biggest dollar value would be to bore to 107".
Quote from: PoorUB on August 01, 2019, 04:15:14 PM
A properly assembled 103" will run nicely, but like others have said, "no replacement for displacement". I would consider a 110 kit. I have no issues with Andrews 57's, but if you are doing all this work cams are cheap, get the right cam for the build. Plus I don't know how you come up with 85CC heads when you don't know what bore size you re going to run. Bore, cams, chamber size all needs to be decided as a package.
What is your budget? 103" flat top money, with 124" desires?
103" to 107" flat top budget, no desire to put a 124 in my Streetbob. The temptation of a 65 year old body with an 18 year old brain would lead to disastrous consequences. The 85CC head statement is a basis to make all other calculations. I understand that every part has to mix well with the other parts. It was a starting point, maybe I ain't as smart as I think I am. You are right I need to get the info and recommendations from the man who is going to port the heads. :potstir: