107" kit with cams and 10.25 or add cams & heads to my 103"?

[Ketch]

I currently have a 2016 RGS with stage 1 (Rinehart Slimline, PM air intake and FP3). I want to go up a bit more in the torque. I typically ride in the 2,500 to 4,500 rpm area. I'm trying to get the most for my limited budget. Thanks.

[dsvracer]

it is the heads that make the power and it is the cam that dictates where in the rpm range the power will be.  heads and cams should be first in making more power.   jmo

[Hillside Motorcycle]

Staying at a 103" configuration, combined with the proper cylinder head work/cam combo, can yield very good power indeed.

[PoorUB]

What is your budget?

Toss in a set of cams wil give you a nice gain. Head work more yet. Once you pull the heads the budget often gets tossed out the window...might as well........

[koko3052]

Unless you have a  load of miles on it, just cams....if the budget is good then cams & headwork.

[harpwrench]

Just getting a dyno tune by someone competent and ditching the FP3 would probably help

[FXDBI]

Just getting a dyno tune by someone competent and ditching the FP3 would probably help

[Ketch]

I'd really like to stay at or under $2,500 for the cams, headwork and the complete tune. Is it possible?

[BVHOG]

I'd really like to stay at or under $2,500 for the cams, headwork and the complete tune. Is it possible?

Rough estimate at 103
550.00 should get  you PV license and tune
Lets say 650.00 for a set of heads from one of the fine vendors here on the forum
75.00 for gaskets
125.00 S&S standard lifters
30 bucks feuling tensioner refill if necessary
20 bucks inner cam bearings
Cam? 300.00
S&S clutch spring 30 bucks
stock pushrods  0.00
That's 1780.00 and I am sure I forgot a couple things
At say 70 dollars per hour that leaves over ten hours for labor.  I don't see the problem but I would mention that an additional 5 bills for a set of 107 cylinders/pistons will only be that 5 bills and all other things remain the same.

[krwson]

Rough estimate at 103
550.00 should get  you PV license and tune
Lets say 650.00 for a set of heads from one of the fine vendors here on the forum
75.00 for gaskets
125.00 S&S standard lifters
30 bucks feuling tensioner refill if necessary
20 bucks inner cam bearings
Cam? 300.00
S&S clutch spring 30 bucks
stock pushrods  0.00
That's 1780.00 and I am sure I forgot a couple things
At say 70 dollars per hour that leaves over ten hours for labor.  I don't see the problem but I would mention that an additional 5 bills for a set of 107 cylinders/pistons will only be that 5 bills and all other things remain the same.
[/quote]

That is solid info right there.

[prodrag1320]

if you do the work yourself,you can easily do a nice 107 build for 2500.00

[Don D]

Or a bolt-on 110.

[Hossamania]

Or a bolt-on 110.

That was my first thought. If going to the trouble of 107, might as well bolt on a 110, it's just as easy.

[Coyote]

Or a bolt-on 110.

[HD/Wrench]

110 and done . best bang for the buck no head work needed to make 110/120

[sfmichael]

I have a 2013 Street Glide 103 with cams, heads, and a tune and it runs very strong - quite a bit better than a 2016 (which actually has a decent cam from the factory)

The 2016's respond quite favorably to just a dyno tune with a good exhaust system. Good dyno operator is essential.

That being said I will be bumping mine to 110" in the near future, I can't leave well enough alone 

[Herko]

...I typically ride in the 2,500 to 4,500 rpm area. I'm trying to get the most for my limited budget...

That would be a Stage II...Cams and a thorough and competent tune.

Cams: Use CR-570-2 or very similar configuration.
Tune: Powervision flashed by a well vetted and part-throttle experienced tuner guy.

[838]

...I typically ride in the 2,500 to 4,500 rpm area. I'm trying to get the most for my limited budget...

That would be a Stage II...Cams and a thorough and competent tune.

Cams: Use CR-570-2 or very similar configuration.
Tune: Powervision flashed by a well vetted and part-throttle experienced tuner guy.

That'd be doable at 103" or at 110" on the OPs stated budget. He could probably even afford a little head work too.

[motolocopat]

From everything Ive seen a 110" and Cams and tuner.

[Ketch]

Can I use my stock heads if I go with a 110" and cams? I'll have it tuned.

[rigidthumper]

Can I use my stock heads if I go with a 110" and cams? I'll have it tuned.

Yes- lots of budget builds out there with that combo. Make sure you have correct clearance & springs for the cams chosen- if the cam card says "bolt in", you should be golden.

[BVHOG]

I couldn't imagine pulling the heads and not at the very least doing a valve job and new seals. I'll take a 107 with ported heads any day over a 110 with stock untouched heads.

[Tommy D]

  Bob did a 107 w/heads for me, couldn't be more pleased with overall drive-ability & performance   

I couldn't imagine pulling the heads and not at the very least doing a valve job and new seals. I'll take a 107 with ported heads any day over a 110 with stock untouched heads.

[Winston Wolf]

If a guy stuck with the cr570-2 mentioned, and left it at 103" but ported the heads and bumped the compression to 10.2 ish, I would assume it would be very strong in the low end?  I'm thinking of trying it to squeeze out some more low rpm roll on punch. Not really worried about the peak HP number, but wanting to maximize the 2500-3500 range.

[PoorUB]

I hate pulling heads just for the clean up and port. If I pull heads I tend to go deeper!

I bet you will be pleasantly surprised with tossing in a set of 570-2 cams, leave the heads on, and a tune. I did it to my 2016 Limited and it is a totally  different  motorcycle.

[Hossamania]

I agree, if pulling the heads, talk with the your porter to determine a good plan of action, what you want out of it, and let him suggest the cam to match his work. If doing headwork, you may want to step up to the CR575 instead of the 570, to take advantage of the work.
Otherwise, skip the headwork, and use the 570-2 and a good tune, as PoorUB says.

[Barrett]

As mentioned already. Cams for the R's you want and a good tune.
I pulled my heads just for the .030HG to get my compression right for the 37's I had.
After I saw what they looked like there was no way they were going back on looking like they did.
Later on I decided to go a little bigger. After checking the crank runout that turned into a whole new engine.
How big of a can of worms do you want to open?

[Winston Wolf]

I already have the 570-2 and it's been tuned competently.  It is fine when solo, and it does walk my friends identical set up with stock cams; but 2 up and loaded with gear, it could use more grunt.  This is my touring/cross country machine, so I don't run the piss out of it (RPM wise).  I had that CR575 cam in a "perfect street" 95" build that Wes supplied me with (his heads, pistons, etc), and I was never really that impressed with it.  It always kicked back when hot (burned up 3 starters), and didn't put out any stellar numbers (around 100/100).  I like to roll on the throttle in 5th and 6th, so I was hoping doing the heads and bumping the compression a little would do the trick without changing pistons; bike only has 25k on it.  The money isn't the issue, I can afford really anything I want to do, but I don't want to do more work than I need to or waste time for not much of a gain.

[boooby1744]

I already have the 570-2 and it's been tuned competently.  It is fine when solo, and it does walk my friends identical set up with stock cams; but 2 up and loaded with gear, it could use more grunt.  This is my touring/cross country machine, so I don't run the piss out of it (RPM wise).  I had that CR575 cam in a "perfect street" 95" build that Wes supplied me with (his heads, pistons, etc), and I was never really that impressed with it.  It always kicked back when hot (burned up 3 starters), and didn't put out any stellar numbers (around 100/100).  I like to roll on the throttle in 5th and 6th, so I was hoping doing the heads and bumping the compression a little would do the trick without changing pistons; bike only has 25k on it.  The money isn't the issue, I can afford really anything I want to do, but I don't want to do more work than I need to or waste time for not much of a gain.

Baker DD7 or a 31 tooth pulley

[sfmichael]

I already have the 570-2 and it's been tuned competently.  It is fine when solo, and it does walk my friends identical set up with stock cams; but 2 up and loaded with gear, it could use more grunt.  This is my touring/cross country machine, so I don't run the piss out of it (RPM wise).  I had that CR575 cam in a "perfect street" 95" build that Wes supplied me with (his heads, pistons, etc), and I was never really that impressed with it.  It always kicked back when hot (burned up 3 starters), and didn't put out any stellar numbers (around 100/100).  I like to roll on the throttle in 5th and 6th, so I was hoping doing the heads and bumping the compression a little would do the trick without changing pistons; bike only has 25k on it.  The money isn't the issue, I can afford really anything I want to do, but I don't want to do more work than I need to or waste time for not much of a gain.

110" drop on kit with more cam and better heads

[genzer]

Mine is a 16 RGS 103 cr 575 cams headwork by wof Larry runs real strong but still have to shift in the hills w/ 2 up, next up is larger throttle body, 2 into 1 and larger displacement. It never ends.

[Tail Ridr]

110" drop on kit with more cam and better heads
[/quote]

This is an avenue I was considering, but my INDY still sees them as JUNK and won't do them. I know I can go elsewhere, but I like to stay local when I can...its just giving me 2nd thoughts

[guesscrazy]

I just got mine back from the dyno. 97hp and 117 tq. cr570-2 cams , power duals and se air cleaner. Hits 100 pounds of torque at 2300 rpm. This is without opening  the top end. Simple and works for 2 up touring.

[r0de_runr]

I currently have a 2016 RGS with stage 1 (Rinehart Slimline, PM air intake and FP3). I want to go up a bit more in the torque. I typically ride in the 2,500 to 4,500 rpm area. I'm trying to get the most for my limited budget. Thanks.

I'll throw cold water on you....lol.  Is this your first Harley?  They are so easy and respond so well to modifications it is hard to resist.

Starting in 2007 with my first Ultra I threw $$$ at every HD I've owned in search of satisfaction when I twist the grip.  Every increase in HP or TQ comes with a problem somewhere else.  More noise, or a weak part that needs to be upgraded, or much faster tire wear (lol).

Want more? Make that 110 into a 113...
Make the 103 into a 107.
Heads
CAMS
Tuners and Tunes and more tuners and more tunes.
Pipes and headers and intakes and injectors and TB's and . . .

In a way it is fun to do all this.  But like most drugs, the high doesn't last, and there is always a desire for more, and there are drawbacks, disadvantages and worries.

So I'm happy with my stock 103 with Stage 1 F&H Propipe, a generic hi flow A/C with K&N element, and a FP3 that I autotuned.

I have no pushrod or lifter noise, so slipping clutch, no oil drain out of my a/c, plenty of power and a great sound.  Engine is very smooth and I don't worry about something coming loose (except the stock lifters of course - I have the ESP).

That $2500 will but a lot of gas, and will not add any value when it comes time to sell or trade, and may in fact reduce your value.

I know I'm a sourpuss, but after all I've thrown at the HD habbit, my quest for power was solved with an old BMW.

[JT Metal]

Staying at a 103" configuration, combined with the proper cylinder head work/cam combo, can yield very good power indeed.

What is "very good power?" Just wanted that term clarified.

[Hossamania]

Mine is a 16 RGS 103 cr 575 cams headwork by wof Larry runs real strong but still have to shift in the hills w/ 2 up, next up is larger throttle body, 2 into 1 and larger displacement. It never ends.

You should shift when two up going uphill unless your running 80 mph or more. Even then, it may be necessary.
Your car with an automatic transmission does.

[sfmichael]

Mine is a 16 RGS 103 cr 575 cams headwork by wof Larry runs real strong but still have to shift in the hills w/ 2 up, next up is larger throttle body, 2 into 1 and larger displacement. It never ends.

You should shift when two up going uphill unless your running 80 mph or more. Even then, it may be necessary.
Your car with an automatic transmission does.

thank you 

all would do well to heed this