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How can I join the 125hp/125tq club?

Started by JT Metal, July 20, 2019, 05:29:05 PM

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JT Metal

'12 103
Tman 555
Ported head
.030 head gasket
Stock pipes, gutted cat
S.E. slip-ons with 1.875" baffles

Currently 101hp/112tq

Stop light to stop lite. Hard acceleration.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.......

boooby1744

July 20, 2019, 05:40:41 PM #1 Last Edit: July 20, 2019, 05:44:49 PM by boooby1744
110 kit,good tune,2-1 exhaust and lower gearing. Won't give the numbers you want, but you'll feel it sop.

Scotty


Ohio HD

I'd take a look in the dyno section at 103, 107 and 110 inch dyno sheets. Most of the build components are listed with the sheets.

Barrett

"Stop light to stop lite. Hard acceleration."
Think about changing the gear ratio also.

Don D

Change everything! Add a larger tb, 58mm and a slightly larger injector. Would have to see the heads. Power duals and different mufflers. 245deg cam. 110" or even the 107 I sell with kb line2line coated pistons can get there.

FXDBI

1st question whats  your budget? 2nd question whats done to your current heads and by who?   Bob

lickidysplit


JT Metal

Reply to must: money is always an issue. Looking to get the most bang for the buck. It's like this.......
How much for how much? 1,000 id do it tomorrow. For 10,000 I'd have to pass. What do you guys think dollar wise?

Heads were ported by Frank @ Drago

Scotty

For a honest answer throw a S&S 124" kit in the motor or put a S&S 124" motor in and keep yours for backup.
Power & torque- but there is no replacement for displacement  :bike:

Ohio HD

It's not a question of who did the heads, but what were they set up for? I doubt to support that kind of power. $1,000 won't get you close at all.

A dyno tune, assuming you have a flash tuner already, will set you back $350 to $500. That's 1/3 to 1/2 your budget right there. Then you need differant cam's, probably pistons, more head work, larger TB, better exhaust.....  Scotty had the best analogy.

Better save at least $3k.

JT Metal

$3,000?......header & tune is $2,000

Is 20hp & 10tq gonna cost me $4-5g?

JT Metal

Quote from: Scotty on July 20, 2019, 07:16:30 PM
For a honest answer throw a S&S 124" kit in the motor or put a S&S 124" motor in and keep yours for backup.

I wish I would have did that in the first place. To be honest. And now it's too late.

Ohio HD

Quote from: JT Metal on July 20, 2019, 07:26:13 PM
$3,000?......header & tune is $2,000

Is 20hp & 10tq gonna cost me $4-5g?

I think you should shop around.....   

If you priced these two items for $1k, why are you asking if that's enough money?     :scratch:

FXDBI

heads ported by Drago means nothing,  what size valves in them ? how many CC? do you have any flow tests? How much lift were they set up for? Do you have compression releases?  That's just the head questions... not enough info to figure cost to get to your goal.  Bob

JT Metal

Quote from: Ohio HD on July 20, 2019, 05:44:58 PM
I'd take a look in the dyno section at 103, 107 and 110 inch dyno sheets. Most of the build components are listed with the sheets.
Good information.......thanks!

prodrag1320

a decent 107" kit will do 120+/125,a VERY mild 124" build will do 130+135.

kouack

Quote from: JT Metal on July 20, 2019, 05:29:05 PM
'12 103
Tman 555
Ported head
.030 head gasket
Stock pipes, gutted cat
S.E. slip-ons with 1.875" baffles

Currently 101hp/112tq

Stop light to stop lite. Hard acceleration.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.......

125/125 On a stock flywheel, and doing hard acceleration, hummmm wont last long!

BVHOG

Personally I would rather see 120/130 on a street bike but with 107 cubes what you want is easily attainable, just consider that those numbers you posted mean almost NOTHING as they are only a representation of a WOT pull on a machine that is supposed to be used for tuning but unfortunately is used much too often for marketing and or targeting a build. Get yourself early torque and a bike that will ride with no ill manners under various conditions. For that Cubic inches are the best way.
If you don't have a sense of humor you probably have no sense at all.

Don D

 :up: :up:
What he said.
Plus advice on the crank is wise, get that in the budget not just a top end job.
And don't forget the clutch!
Speed (with reliability and manners) costs money. How fast do you want to go?

JT Metal

Quote from: BVHOG on July 21, 2019, 06:38:45 AM
Personally I would rather see 120/130 on a street bike but with 107 cubes what you want is easily attainable, just consider that those numbers you posted mean almost NOTHING.
Understood.....i was trying to ascertain an appx dollar figure vs roa.
Maybe I'll settle with a 30t pulley & belt swap.

Thank you.

Barrett

When I went 30T pulley I kept the stock belt(08FXDF). It was near the end of adjustment but there is some room left.
I really don't expect it to stretch anymore. It was my best bang for the buck.

JT Metal

Barrett, what are your thoughts on Harley's trike 30t......pretty good price.

Barrett

I went with the Andrews pulley. I didn't know about the trike pulley at the time. My bike was waay overgeared per EPA rules for MPG. The pulley woke it up.

doubletrouble

Quote from: BVHOG on July 21, 2019, 06:38:45 AM
Personally I would rather see 120/130 on a street bike but with 107 cubes what you want is easily attainable, just consider that those numbers you posted mean almost NOTHING as they are only a representation of a WOT pull on a machine that is supposed to be used for tuning but unfortunately is used much too often for marketing and or targeting a build. Get yourself early torque and a bike that will ride with no ill manners under various conditions. For that Cubic inches are the best way.
It just cant be made any clearer than this - very well put and to the point - in a nut shell , this actually is the , asked and answered.