How can I join the 125hp/125tq club?

[JT Metal]

'12 103
Tman 555
Ported head
.030 head gasket
Stock pipes, gutted cat
S.E. slip-ons with 1.875" baffles

Currently 101hp/112tq

Stop light to stop lite. Hard acceleration.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.......

[boooby1744]

110 kit,good tune,2-1 exhaust and lower gearing. Won't give the numbers you want, but you'll feel it sop.

[Scotty]

[Ohio HD]

I'd take a look in the dyno section at 103, 107 and 110 inch dyno sheets. Most of the build components are listed with the sheets.

[Barrett]

"Stop light to stop lite. Hard acceleration."
Think about changing the gear ratio also.

[Don D]

Change everything! Add a larger tb, 58mm and a slightly larger injector. Would have to see the heads. Power duals and different mufflers. 245deg cam. 110" or even the 107 I sell with kb line2line coated pistons can get there.

[FXDBI]

1st question whats  your budget? 2nd question whats done to your current heads and by who?   Bob

[lickidysplit]

For best results see reply #2

[JT Metal]

Reply to must: money is always an issue. Looking to get the most bang for the buck. It's like this.......
How much for how much? 1,000 id do it tomorrow. For 10,000 I'd have to pass. What do you guys think dollar wise?

Heads were ported by Frank @ Drago

[Scotty]

For a honest answer throw a S&S 124" kit in the motor or put a S&S 124" motor in and keep yours for backup.
Power & torque- but there is no replacement for displacement 

[Ohio HD]

It's not a question of who did the heads, but what were they set up for? I doubt to support that kind of power. $1,000 won't get you close at all.

A dyno tune, assuming you have a flash tuner already, will set you back $350 to $500. That's 1/3 to 1/2 your budget right there. Then you need differant cam's, probably pistons, more head work, larger TB, better exhaust.....  Scotty had the best analogy.

Better save at least $3k.

[JT Metal]

$3,000?......header & tune is $2,000

Is 20hp & 10tq gonna cost me $4-5g?

[JT Metal]

For a honest answer throw a S&S 124" kit in the motor or put a S&S 124" motor in and keep yours for backup.

I wish I would have did that in the first place. To be honest. And now it's too late.

[Ohio HD]

$3,000?......header & tune is $2,000

Is 20hp & 10tq gonna cost me $4-5g?

I think you should shop around.....   

If you priced these two items for $1k, why are you asking if that's enough money?     

[FXDBI]

heads ported by Drago means nothing,  what size valves in them ? how many CC? do you have any flow tests? How much lift were they set up for? Do you have compression releases?  That's just the head questions... not enough info to figure cost to get to your goal.  Bob

[JT Metal]

I'd take a look in the dyno section at 103, 107 and 110 inch dyno sheets. Most of the build components are listed with the sheets.

Good information.......thanks!

[prodrag1320]

a decent 107" kit will do 120+/125,a VERY mild 124" build will do 130+135.

[kouack]

'12 103
Tman 555
Ported head
.030 head gasket
Stock pipes, gutted cat
S.E. slip-ons with 1.875" baffles

Currently 101hp/112tq

Stop light to stop lite. Hard acceleration.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.......

125/125 On a stock flywheel, and doing hard acceleration, hummmm wont last long!

[BVHOG]

Personally I would rather see 120/130 on a street bike but with 107 cubes what you want is easily attainable, just consider that those numbers you posted mean almost NOTHING as they are only a representation of a WOT pull on a machine that is supposed to be used for tuning but unfortunately is used much too often for marketing and or targeting a build. Get yourself early torque and a bike that will ride with no ill manners under various conditions. For that Cubic inches are the best way.

[Don D]

 
What he said.
Plus advice on the crank is wise, get that in the budget not just a top end job.
And don't forget the clutch!
Speed (with reliability and manners) costs money. How fast do you want to go?

[JT Metal]

Personally I would rather see 120/130 on a street bike but with 107 cubes what you want is easily attainable, just consider that those numbers you posted mean almost NOTHING.

Understood.....i was trying to ascertain an appx dollar figure vs roa.
Maybe I'll settle with a 30t pulley & belt swap.

Thank you.

[Barrett]

When I went 30T pulley I kept the stock belt(08FXDF). It was near the end of adjustment but there is some room left.
I really don't expect it to stretch anymore. It was my best bang for the buck.

[JT Metal]

Barrett, what are your thoughts on Harley's trike 30t......pretty good price.

[Barrett]

I went with the Andrews pulley. I didn't know about the trike pulley at the time. My bike was waay overgeared per EPA rules for MPG. The pulley woke it up.

[doubletrouble]

Personally I would rather see 120/130 on a street bike but with 107 cubes what you want is easily attainable, just consider that those numbers you posted mean almost NOTHING as they are only a representation of a WOT pull on a machine that is supposed to be used for tuning but unfortunately is used much too often for marketing and or targeting a build. Get yourself early torque and a bike that will ride with no ill manners under various conditions. For that Cubic inches are the best way.

It just cant be made any clearer than this - very well put and to the point - in a nut shell , this actually is the , asked and answered.

[Hossamania]

$3,000?......header & tune is $2,000

Is 20hp & 10tq gonna cost me $4-5g?

Much closer to reality than $1000.

[tdrglide]

It's the law of diminishing return

[pwmorris]

Personally I would rather see 120/130 on a street bike but with 107 cubes what you want is easily attainable, just consider that those numbers you posted mean almost NOTHING.

Understood.....i was trying to ascertain an appx dollar figure vs roa.
Maybe I'll settle with a 30t pulley & belt swap.

Thank you.

Smart man.
OP,
You aren't gonna spend the coin for a 124" which, as said, in mild, crate, untouched, as is form with a decent tune and pipe, will give you around high 120's to low 130's square all day-and I mean any day, any time, ANY dyno....just the way I like it. No games, no secret sauce Dyno tricks (I know and have seen them all) or inflated drums.
BTW, who says 125 square will satisfy you? No way I would be happy with that mild HP and TQ numbers......This site and many others are littered with guys who say more, get more, then want even more. Read posts here, there and everywhere of guys who did this cam, that pipe, head work, etc, etc, till they have well over 6K in their motor, when they simply could have dropped the coin for a 124" and have a bulletproof platform for years to come.
A platform to work around for ANY type of riding style, that will put a smile on your face and still give you the rush you want light to light- and smoke most any Harley you roll up on.
Remember though, a 124" with pipe and good tune is 6 K plus (depending on used, new, source of parts, who does the labor, pipe choice and other factors, which can bump that number up quite a bit, like into 8-9 grand territory. And I'm NOT talking about a 124" using your weak HD flywheel bottom end. The whole 9 yards, top to bottom.
So.....

For two grand, say, give or take, and the most smiles per light, I would do pully and belt (get that gear ratio deeper big time (higher numerically as long as you have an overdrive gear you can get those first 2-3 gears to really matter), a Pingel electric shifter (you have no idea how much fun and quick this is), and a 50 Shave haircut to bump the comp, and mild head work-and if you have the coin left over a retune of course from someone who knows what the hell they are doing.

No free lunch-

[SB107]

I went with a Evolution Industries 30T solid compensator sprocket, over 3000 miles and its been pretty smooth as long as you don't let your rpm go too low...

[JT Metal]

It's the law of diminishing return

Totally agree. I love my bike no matter. It's fun to ride. But sticking another $5,000 in, and netting an extra 15/15 ain't gonna happen.
And like I said. And I'd give the same advise to anyone whom asks......"just go with a 124" and be done"
Just can't justify the want......

[JT Metal]

 

I went with a Evolution Industries 30T solid compensator sprocket, over 3000 miles and its been pretty smooth as long as you don't let your rpm go too low...

I was considering the final pulley in the rear.

[Barrett]

Going the long way piece by piece will cost more than a crate. My 117" is over $10,000. S&S with Star heads.
I didn't plan it to go that way at first, it just grew, If I only knew
I have other rides so I took the time to do this one right.
I'm sure it will bust the 125 mark..

[Coff 06]

Another example.A couple years ago I upgraded my 06 already 98".
Did not touch the pistons and cylinders.
I changed cams,heads,TB,Injectors,A/C,Dyno tune and tuner and picked up a used 2/1 for a great price.
I still spent approximately $4500 by the time it was done.
It makes 123/118,and still needs a little help in the clutch department
I'm not complaining,the bike runs like a raped ape.Just an example of how quickly things add up
         Coff 06

[Scotty]

I try to explain to people that if you just want realiable then clean up the heads. cams and maybe larger pistons and exhaust, tune and you know that is around 1 hp/tq per cubic inch and very easy to attain.
When you try to get 1.1, 1.2, 1.3 and higher hp/tq per cubic inch it's not a little jump it's a whole new plan and although attainable there has to be a $$$$$ consideration.
Get a S&S 124 with a good crank and out the box 1 hp/tq per cubic inch is a given and easy to attain then after that more money needs to be spent.
Have to have a plan or deep deep pockets.

[kd]

 

[838]

110 kit,good tune,2-1 exhaust and lower gearing. Won't give the numbers you want, but you'll feel it sop.

You could even keep your stock header and buy one of the sets of crusher mellows that's on sale in the htt classifieds for $300. Bolt on 110", keep the cams and heads. Stock throttle body won't get you to 125hp, but it will get you close(er) to 120. Find a 30-32t front compensating sprocket.

$1000 for the bolt on kit.
$300 for the mellows
$400 for the sprocket
$500 for the tune

You'll be all in for under $2500, if you're doing the work yourself.

[Hillside Motorcycle]

'12 103
Tman 555
Ported head
.030 head gasket
Stock pipes, gutted cat
S.E. slip-ons with 1.875" baffles

Currently 101hp/112tq

110" drop on kit, 50mm t/body, and insure the heads are up to the task.
130 ft/lbs +/-, and mid teens hp should be achieveable.



Any thoughts would be appreciated.......

[1workinman]

Personally I would rather see 120/130 on a street bike but with 107 cubes what you want is easily attainable, just consider that those numbers you posted mean almost NOTHING as they are only a representation of a WOT pull on a machine that is supposed to be used for tuning but unfortunately is used much too often for marketing and or targeting a build. Get yourself early torque and a bike that will ride with no ill manners under various conditions. For that Cubic inches are the best way.

That is absolutely the truth if I ever heard it . The bigger motor will make more low end torque , normally lol and be easier for me to drive.  I drive a heavy sled Street Glide and Road Glide , both are heavy and I like both because I can cruise 85 with the radio on and not get beat up with the wind . I got some experience with big motors NA . I not tried the turbo motors yet but the big motors have torque that I enjoy using . I just don't want it to lay over till rev limiter or close

[1workinman]

What he said.
Plus advice on the crank is wise, get that in the budget not just a top end job.
And don't forget the clutch!
Speed (with reliability and manners) costs money. How fast do you want to go?

Yea probably so . But I can say absolutely it less than doing it twice if not done correctly the first time . I been down that road on the 124 .