Hello, Im new to this site and this is my first post (hopefully you will bear with me). I have a 2002 88" FLSTC and I want to get the cylinders bore to 95" with flat top pistons, I also am going to run Andrews tw48 cams. .030 head gasket. I have a set of 2015 streetglide heads that are going on this and I am wondering #1) would milling the heads .020 be beneficial. #2) Could I keep stock length pushrods. #3) would there be any piston to valve interference. #4) how much could I safely mill the heads without causing any interference. Thanks, Tom
That will all work fine. I dont think i would mill the heads much more than .030 with that early closing cam.
Plenty of room in there, Andrews 48's only have 0.153" TDC lift. They're not going to be anywhere near a flat top piston. I wouldn't go any further than that as those cams don't need lots of compression. I'd consider having someone do a mild port job and 1.900" intake valve in the heads, and good valve job to increase flow. It'll make a nice improvement across the board.
Ohio hd ? stating he is going to mill the heads would he be better to cut .050 raise comp to 9.8. then he could run the tw54 for broader torque. My riding impression of the 37 is breathless short shift feel.
I have no experience with the 54's.
I have had the cams and pistons for awhile now, the bike now has enough miles on it to justify a top end. If I cut the heads .020 with a .030 head gasket will the stock length push rods still work, (I believe the 48 cams have a .020 smaller base circle) or would I be better off with adjustables. As you can tell Im a novice at this and your input is greatly appreciated. Thanks again!
The push rods would probably work ok, but I would use a set of good quality adjustable push rods to be sure they're set right.
Quote from: 02fxst on January 12, 2019, 06:59:37 PM
I have had the cams and pistons for awhile now, the bike now has enough miles on it to justify a top end. If I cut the heads .020 with a .030 head gasket will the stock length push rods still work, (I believe the 48 cams have a .020 smaller base circle) or would I be better off with adjustables. As you can tell Im a novice at this and your input is greatly appreciated. Thanks again!
If this information is correct the stock push rods will work.
When ever I have measured, the lifters plunger is about 1/2 travel with a stock cam and push rods. In your case the plunger will be .020" farther down in the lifter than stock, still plenty of travel before they bottom out.
I would rather use solid push rods over adjustables.
As mentioned, if the heads are coming off for milling, I would have them cleaned up and ported too. It shouldn't cost a bunch more. You'll like the 95" with new cams, a whole new bike.
And how many miles are on it to justify a new top end? I did mine with 25,000 miles, because I could justify it in my brain! Anything to beat my friends in a race.....
The bike has 75,000 on it, still runs good and doesnt take any oil. Ive had the new pistons and cams for 5 years now. I guess I am just justifing it in my brain too. I am sure it would it run a lot longer without any work. just time for something different. I might ask the guy whos doing the boring and milling about cleaning up and porting the heads. Hes a good machinist but not sure how much porting hes done. Thanks to all for the ideas and info, Tom
Good luck, let us know how you like it. And welcome to the site!
Quote from: 02fxst on January 12, 2019, 08:07:41 PM
The bike has 75,000 on it, still runs good and doesnt take any oil. Ive had the new pistons and cams for 5 years now. I guess I am just justifing it in my brain too. I am sure it would it run a lot longer without any work. just time for something different. I might ask the guy whos doing the boring and milling about cleaning up and porting the heads. Hes a good machinist but not sure how much porting hes done. Thanks to all for the ideas and info, Tom
I don't know who you are going to use for machine work. But just make sure they're experienced in HD cylinder sizing, and not just an auto machinist. HD's require torque plates to bore and hone to size. A lot of auto machine shops don't have the tools, or the knowledge. You may want to source someone experienced in performing head work and cylinder work for HD's.
Remember, the brown truck takes things everywhere.
The guy worked at the local H-D dealership for quite a few years before he opened his own shop, that was probably 15 years ago. I dont think they did much head porting in house back then but now they claim they can. Therefor I am seriously considering the brown truck for my heads. Thanks, Tom
I can recommend Larry's Motorcycle and Machine as a source to look at. He's done a few sets for me, as well as many others on this site. He does great work, and is reasonable on his prices.
Larry will be square with you, and no BS.
http://www.larrysmotorcyclemachine.com/?fbclid=IwAR1wBmeg-uCj4xry1lQVlxJIVViu40LaEDkhPZxo1v4sZ3OA6rlXWmK-aEg
http://harleytechtalk.com/htt/index.php?board=98.0
Have the cam chain tensioners ever been changed? Have you considered switching to the 07 and up hydraulic plate/pump with 48N cams?
What to consider is your dropping the head almost .040 and installing a high ccp cam in a 75,000 crank. check the runout. Porting the heads on those cam specs is very very small return for the money. spend that money on a S&S plate and pump.
Or put two new adjuster shoes on when you install the cams and ride it another 75,000 miles.
Ive replaced the tensioners twice now, definitely will replace them again when its apart ( I already have a new set). I too dont really think sending the heads out for porting would worth the extra cost for me. A .020 cut for a little better compression and the better flowing newer style heads should be fine. Just want a good dependable upgrade for an older bike. I will keep you updated and thanks for everything fellas, Tom (P.S. What a great website, a person can learn a lot.)
Make sure you use the later model intake flanges on those '15 heads.
With the low TDC lifts of the 48, no worries whatsoever in removing material from those heads.
80cc would be around 195ccp/95"/.030" gask.......030" removed, but best to cut, cc, cut, cc.
If boring the cylinders I'd go to 98".
Quote from: Hillside Motorcycle on January 14, 2019, 04:09:25 AM
If boring the cylinders I'd go to 98".
Quote from: 02fxst on January 12, 2019, 06:59:37 PM
I have had the cams and pistons for awhile now
Bore has already been determined.
Have you done carb, exhaust and ignition upgrades yet?
I agree with Scott.. 98"... mines still ripping you did for me Scott.. well atleast it was last time I rode it. Had back surgery 6 months ago and haven't cranked it since
Quote from: jrgreene1968 on February 21, 2019, 06:46:23 PM
I agree with Scott.. 98"... mines still ripping you did for me Scott.. well atleast it was last time I rode it. Had back surgery 6 months ago and haven't cranked it since
:up: :up: :up:
Even if you don't want to do a port job on the heads. You would still benifit from a good multi angle valve job. At a reasonable cost.
My bike is back together, stock 2015 heads, 48 cams, 95" +.005 SE flat top top pistons, perfect fit stock length PR, rocker lockers, new oil pump and new B lifters. Nice oil spray at the rocker boxes and running 40 pounds of oil pressure at idle. Very quiet up top which Im very pleased with. Running a 190 main, 48 slow and sportster needle with SE 11 mufflers. Now when we lose the 48" inches of snow we currently have on the ground and the additional 10" were getting tonight it will be time for a ride and fine tuning. Like they say, summers are nice up in Minn., both days of them. Thanks for all info and recommendations. Thanks again, Tom
Quote and new B lifters
where did you steal them from :SM:
Bought a cam bearing repair kit off of ebay, included EVERYTHING thats in a cam chest plus the B lifters and a top end gasket set for just over a c-note. :SM: