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Clutch Adjustment ??

Started by twincamzz, September 09, 2018, 01:18:12 PM

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twincamzz

Back in June I bought a 2003 XL1200Custom from a friend of mine that had bought it new. Motorcycle only had 5695 miles on it and had been very well taken care of when I got it. I had lubed the clutch cable and adjusted slack at cable adjuster, but had not yet felt the need to adjust at the primary as clutch operated fine as is. I have put a bit over 5000 miles on it to date.
Yesterday I installed a Energy One extra plate kit to get that spring plate out of there before it decided to disintegrate. After getting clutch back together I ran the adjuster CCW until I felt resistance, then turned adjuster CW 1/4 of a turn as service manual says, then I adjusted at cable to give me 1/16" - 1/8" free play at lever. I made sure outer ramp assembly was all the way back before I adjusted at the cable adjuster.
Only got to ride a few miles as a bad storm was heading our way, however there seems to be a difference in clutch operation as to "where the clutch lets out at", if that makes any sense. With old clutch the action started not long after beginning to let clutch out from grip, with plenty of room for clutch articulation. Now it feels as if everything is happening right at the end of lever travel, kinda like the hydraulic clutch did in my 2017 Limited.
Not much room for deviation on adjustment at primary cover. Manual mentions that it may be necessary to turn adjusting screw CW slightly so that lockplate slides onto flats while also fitting within the recess of outer ramp. I did have to do this too.
Anything left to adjust that would change when clutch action takes place ? If this were a big twin I would try to lessen amount of adjustment at primary, but that does not appear to be an option with a Sportster.
not all who wander are lost...

guppymech

When you're turning the clutch release adjuster CCW push on the cable hook to help it move forward as if you just rely on the screw adjuster to drive the hook fully forward it won't quit be enough. You can feel resistance to turning the release screw CCW but the mechanism balls won't be fully at the end of the ramps that is why I recommend pushing the cable hook with your finger while turning the screw.  When the balls reach the end of the ramps you will feel stronger resistance to further turning of the screw. Just be sure you turn the release screw back CW to provide some freeplay between the pushrod and the release bearing.   Then adjust the cable freeplay as you have been doing.
I've had three 5 speed Sportsters and never had any trouble with the clutch spring plate.   
'84 FXE, '02 883R

twincamzz

Your first sentence may very well be what I got wrong. If I understand correctly, you're telling me to push ramps forward, which would spread them apart ? I did the opposite, I made certain they were all the way back, ensuring the ramps were all the way together. :doh:
I will give your method a try and see how it goes. Thanks. BTW, I was not having any trouble out of clutch, simply changed it out as preventative maintenance.
not all who wander are lost...

guppymech

Quote from: twincamzz on September 10, 2018, 02:26:11 AM
Your first sentence may very well be what I got wrong. If I understand correctly, you're telling me to push ramps forward, which would spread them apart ? I did the opposite, I made certain they were all the way back, ensuring the ramps were all the way together. :doh:
I will give your method a try and see how it goes. Thanks. BTW, I was not having any trouble out of clutch, simply changed it out as preventative maintenance.
No I think I told you wrong, it's been a while since I adjusted my 883R clutch.  When turning the release screw the cable hook naturally moves and I just help it with my finger.  Sorry if I goofed you up.
'84 FXE, '02 883R

rigidthumper

You can adjust the "where the clutch lets out at" with the cable adjuster, more slack engages sooner, but if too much, may drag.
The adjustment at the ball & ramp assembly is designed to accommodate for plate wear, and ensure some slack exists, so the throw-out bearing isn't under constant pressure.
I have replaced scores of those spring plates,  some as early as 35k, most around 50-55K miles.
Ignorance is bliss, and accuracy expensive. How much of either can you afford?