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Dyna Neck Bearing - Plan on Just Grease or Replace?

Started by Rusticwater, March 13, 2019, 07:02:40 AM

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Rusticwater

2010 FXDC, ~30k miles

It's time for the Dyna neck bearings to be serviced (Joy!), which I have put off all winter.

In my research I found one video that advocates replacing Dyna neck bearings regardless of how good of a condition they may appear...and I want to ask the forum for opinions so I can prepare accordingly. No known problems, yet this is new to me and therefore don't know what to expect.

Obviously if there's a problem they would have to be replaced anyway, and I would have to obtain tools, parts, etc. which takes some time to get to my location. But at the end of the day I want the bike to be in the best possible condition, without being overly obsessive of course, I don't change tires every thousand miles.

Having been burnt by the FSM before (shaft seal), is there anything else I should plan on replacing while the neck is apart, dust shields for example?
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rbabos

Quote from: Rusticwater on March 13, 2019, 07:02:40 AM
2010 FXDC, ~30k miles

It's time for the Dyna neck bearings to be serviced (Joy!), which I have put off all winter.

In my research I found one video that advocates replacing Dyna neck bearings regardless of how good of a condition they may appear...and I want to ask the forum for opinions so I can prepare accordingly. No known problems, yet this is new to me and therefore don't know what to expect.

Obviously if there's a problem they would have to be replaced anyway, and I would have to obtain tools, parts, etc. which takes some time to get to my location. But at the end of the day I want the bike to be in the best possible condition, without being overly obsessive of course, I don't change tires every thousand miles.

Having been burnt by the FSM before (shaft seal), is there anything else I should plan on replacing while the neck is apart, dust shields for example?
Don't see any reason to replace them if they are in good shape as in not rusted or have been exposed to running loose for long periods which hammers a notchy low spot in the outer race.. If you do decide to replace, All Balls has a bearing kit with cones ,bearing and seals. You need a decent tool to remove the outer races or resort to dremmel grinding notches in them to allow a punch to work.
Ron

calif phil

Clean, inspect, grease or replace and adjust.    Good for another 30k :chop:

Norton Commando

I removed the steering tube bearings on my '90 Electra Glide by making three tacks on each race with a MIG welder. After welding, the lower bearing nearly fell out and the upper was easily removed with my gloved-hand.

Jason
Remember, you can sleep in your car, but you can't drive your house.

rbabos

Quote from: Norton Commando on March 13, 2019, 02:24:48 PM
I removed the steering tube bearings on my '90 Electra Glide by making three tacks on each race with a MIG welder. After welding, the lower bearing nearly fell out and the upper was easily removed with my gloved-hand.

Jason
If you have a welder, that is the easiest way to get it done. I just ordered a 40mm Tusk collet for the pesky bitches. V rod servicing, in this case. Same bearings and cups and no real lip to tap with a punch. Not paying Jims price for a cave man tool.
http://www.gnarlyparts.ca/Tusk-Bearing-Remover-Collet_p_218.html
Ron

Norton Commando

Quote from: rbabos on March 13, 2019, 03:50:35 PM
Quote from: Norton Commando on March 13, 2019, 02:24:48 PM
I removed the steering tube bearings on my '90 Electra Glide by making three tacks on each race with a MIG welder. After welding, the lower bearing nearly fell out and the upper was easily removed with my gloved-hand.

Jason
If you have a welder, that is the easiest way to get it done. I just ordered a 40mm Tusk collet for the pesky bitches. V rod servicing, in this case. Same bearings and cups and no real lip to tap with a punch. Not paying Jims price for a cave man tool.
http://www.gnarlyparts.ca/Tusk-Bearing-Remover-Collet_p_218.html
Ron

You must have at least a bit of exposed lip in order for your expanding collet tool to work.

Jason
Remember, you can sleep in your car, but you can't drive your house.

doctorevil

like the guys said weld a little bead in 3 places and punch them out inside out.  big 18" screwdriver

Rusticwater

As always, thank you all for taking the time to respond and offering your advice, I really appreciate it!  :up:  :up:  :up:
Support the Maine lobster industry

rbabos

Quote from: Norton Commando on March 13, 2019, 05:26:56 PM
Quote from: rbabos on March 13, 2019, 03:50:35 PM
Quote from: Norton Commando on March 13, 2019, 02:24:48 PM
I removed the steering tube bearings on my '90 Electra Glide by making three tacks on each race with a MIG welder. After welding, the lower bearing nearly fell out and the upper was easily removed with my gloved-hand.

Jason
If you have a welder, that is the easiest way to get it done. I just ordered a 40mm Tusk collet for the pesky bitches. V rod servicing, in this case. Same bearings and cups and no real lip to tap with a punch. Not paying Jims price for a cave man tool.
http://www.gnarlyparts.ca/Tusk-Bearing-Remover-Collet_p_218.html
Ron

You must have at least a bit of exposed lip in order for your expanding collet tool to work.

Jason
Not really. All you need is the natural OD radius of the cup to grab onto. That hair line crack in there, basically is the lip. Feel for it when snugging and adjust the pressure.  I looked at the reviews on this tool compared to others. 5 star rating on these pesky HD races.
Ron

Rusticwater

So I greased the neck bearings over the weekend, overall the whole process went a lot smoother than I expected. I want to thank rigidthumper for giving advice in my other thread on the tightness of the star nut. Once I removed the upper fork clamp I was able to remove the star nut by hand. The neck bearings were in great shape with plenty of grease left so I completely cleaned them with contact cleaner then used a Lisle bearing packer (made in the USA) to grease them with Harley Special Purpose Grease. My rationale for the Harley grease was the original grease lasted 9 years, most of which was riding in the heat of Texas and Colorado with no problems. I've attached some photos.

Here's the bike with the upper fork clamp removed. I left the handle bars attached to the upper clamp and just tied the whole assembly to the garage door rail so it was out of the way.
[attach=0,msg1287853]

Here's the fork stem polished with the freshly greased lower bearing ready for re-assembly.
[attach=1,msg1287853]

Here's some prep work on the front of the bike. I have fork mounted turn signals so when I removed them I put a sock over each one for protection then tied them together with a cord strung over the frame neck so they wouldn't hang by the wires. The headlight is in the drawstring bag, I tied a cord to it then ran the cord over the neck and tied it on the engine guard so the light wouldn't hang by the wires either. Also, I've got about 2 or 3 towels under that moving blanket to protect the paint.

[attach=2,msg1287853]

Here's the upper bearing reinstalled.
[attach=3,msg1287853]

I haven't gotten everything back together and adjusted fall away yet as I'm waiting for new Timken wheel bearings to install in the front wheel. My thanks again to all that offered their expertise and advice!
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cheech