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Typhoon Front Wheel Bearing Puller?

Started by Rusticwater, March 14, 2019, 04:02:46 PM

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Rusticwater

2010 FXDC

I have a chrome Typhoon front wheel that I want to replace the bearings in. The problem is that the bearing puller (Pit Posse) I used for my rear wheel needs a flat surface for support, like where the drive pulley or the brake rotor bolt on. Referring to the attached photo, the front Typhoon wheel just has a thin edged cone protruding on both sides without a flat surface to rest the bearing puller on.

[attach=0,msg1287114]

In my other post about neck bearings, Ron (rbabos) mentioned a Tusk tool. I went to Amazon and searched on that just out of curiosity, and some other tools came up like:

here and

here and

here .

The prices seem incredible, so I was wondering if they would work to remove my front wheel bearings? Or are there better suggestions for what tool to use? FWIW I don't have a welder.

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calif phil

I bet they would work.   The slide hammer might be a bit light duty.    $30 is worth a gamble.

Rusticwater

Would something like this be a better approach?
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PoorUB

The slide hammers will not work, too light duty, too small of "hammer". I tried one, the wheel bearings just laughed at the attempt.
I am an adult?? When did that happen, and how do I make it stop?!

IvyMan69

The slide hammer ones expand from the top and the jaws just bend at the bottom and release when trying to remove the bearing.

rbabos

March 15, 2019, 05:14:26 AM #5 Last Edit: March 15, 2019, 05:25:51 AM by rbabos
Quote from: Rusticwater on March 14, 2019, 08:12:20 PM
Would something like this be a better approach?
They suck. While it did remove the bearing , eventually,  it's about as barbaric as humanly possible to remove a bearing.
Ron

rbabos

March 15, 2019, 05:23:07 AM #6 Last Edit: March 15, 2019, 05:42:57 AM by rbabos
Quote from: Rusticwater on March 14, 2019, 04:02:46 PM
2010 FXDC

I have a chrome Typhoon front wheel that I want to replace the bearings in. The problem is that the bearing puller (Pit Posse) I used for my rear wheel needs a flat surface for support, like where the drive pulley or the brake rotor bolt on. Referring to the attached photo, the front Typhoon wheel just has a thin edged cone protruding on both sides without a flat surface to rest the bearing puller on.

[attach=0,msg1287114]

In my other post about neck bearings, Ron (rbabos) mentioned a Tusk tool. I went to Amazon and searched on that just out of curiosity, and some other tools came up like:

here and

here and

here .

The prices seem incredible, so I was wondering if they would work to remove my front wheel bearings? Or are there better suggestions for what tool to use? FWIW I don't have a welder.
Most of those are from the same place, China, which explains the price and that can be all over the place depending on supplier. I do have a similar set with more collets, 8mm-30mm. The steel seems decent enough for what it is.  Rather then use the slide hammer, I have a bridge to pull from. Basically a pipe, threaded rod into the end of collet , a disc on the top of the pipe and nut. Crank nut and it pulls the collet and bearing out. Heat gun the hub area makes a huge difference for easier removal. A more civilized method of extraction.  Slide hammer is ok for lighter pressed bearings or the smaller collets and as mentioned too light for the bigger wheel bearings. The Tusk 40mm is also China but it's gotten good reviews. Not one complaint that it failed to do the job and for the money, I'm game to try it. Slide hammer will work on these as the timken cones are not in there that tight.
As for China brand tools, some are total crap, yet some are as good as any high dollar items. It's a gamble on brands as to what you end up with.
Ron

Rusticwater

Quote from: rbabos on March 15, 2019, 05:14:26 AM
Quote from: Rusticwater on March 14, 2019, 08:12:20 PM
Would something like this be a better approach?
They suck. While it did remove the bearing , eventually,  it's about as barbaric as humanly possible to remove a bearing.
Ron

Any suggestions for a better tool to use, or should I just leave this to the dealer? I did read somewhere to try using an old rear brake rotor as a bridge to support a bearing puller. Since I haven't removed the wheel yet and eyeballed that possibility, I can't say if it's feasible or not.
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rbabos

March 15, 2019, 05:52:45 AM #8 Last Edit: March 15, 2019, 05:57:20 AM by rbabos
Quote from: Rusticwater on March 15, 2019, 05:43:28 AM
Quote from: rbabos on March 15, 2019, 05:14:26 AM
Quote from: Rusticwater on March 14, 2019, 08:12:20 PM
Would something like this be a better approach?
They suck. While it did remove the bearing , eventually,  it's about as barbaric as humanly possible to remove a bearing.
Ron

Any suggestions for a better tool to use, or should I just leave this to the dealer? I did read somewhere to try using an old rear brake rotor as a bridge to support a bearing puller. Since I haven't removed the wheel yet and eyeballed that possibility, I can't say if it's feasible or not.
There's this one also but it's not cheap. Might give ideas on the bridge and collet concept though.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xqXp5aUEHAc
Ron

Rusticwater

My bad, I should have been more explicit about that's the model I already have that I used on the rear wheel bearings last fall. Worked pretty well too for the rear wheel. I'm just not sure how to support it on the edge of the front wheel, but like I said I haven't even pulled the wheel yet. And I did save my old rear brake rotor just in case...

This is going to be on the tail end of the neck bearing project since I have to pull the wheel for that anyway.
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les

Take a look at the JIMS 913 to see if that might help.

Rusticwater

Les, I appreciate the suggestion but it's just the right side of the wheel I'm concerned about. The left side, the one with the brake rotor, I can lay my old rear brake rotor on top of the rotor bolts to act as a bridge for the bearing puller. I just took off the wheel, here's a photo:
[attach=0]

Here's a photo of the right side:
[attach=1]

There isn't enough surface area to rest the old brake rotor on to use as a bridge. But the good news might be I can remove the left bearing first and have far more access through the wheel to get at the right bearing with some kind of tool.

Or maybe I try laying some boards on the tire or something for the bearing puller I have, which is the Pit Posse VT102.  :scratch:
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PoorUB

Pull the LH side first then use a BFH and big punch and drive out the RH side.

I can see the LH side would be easier, but still a hassle not to mar the wheel.

Will the inner sleeve move off to the side at all so you can just punch the first bearing out? Sometimes you can catch just enough of the inner race to drive it out. The only problem then is supporting the wheel so you don't mar the chrome.

If you have a lift table with a decent wheel vise you may be able to clamp and strap in the wheel solid enough to punch out out.
I am an adult?? When did that happen, and how do I make it stop?!

skunk

Can you lock in your current PitBoss puller, just the center section without the pulling base and drive it out from the other side with a large drift? years ago when I was even more financially challenged than I am now I have welded a pipe plug to the inner race and drove it out from the other side(crude and RN but it worked).

Rusticwater

Quote from: PoorUB on March 15, 2019, 03:57:56 PM
Pull the LH side first then use a BFH and big punch and drive out the RH side.

I can see the LH side would be easier, but still a hassle not to mar the wheel.

Will the inner sleeve move off to the side at all so you can just punch the first bearing out? Sometimes you can catch just enough of the inner race to drive it out. The only problem then is supporting the wheel so you don't mar the chrome.

If you have a lift table with a decent wheel vise you may be able to clamp and strap in the wheel solid enough to punch out out.
When I did my rear wheel last fall, I used a Black and Decker Workmate which I'll use again here somehow. It actually worked really well, to use a dining table analogy you can remove a leaf or 2 from the Workmate and either lay the wheel flat or clamp it upright, only the tire comes into contact with anything so the wheel is untouched.

Quote from: skunk on March 15, 2019, 04:10:25 PM
Can you lock in your current PitBoss puller, just the center section without the pulling base and drive it out from the other side with a large drift? years ago when I was even more financially challenged than I am now I have welded a pipe plug to the inner race and drove it out from the other side(crude and RN but it worked).
That crossed my mind as well. The Pit Posse was originally purchased just for the Harley wheel bearings, cheaper than going to the dealer, so if it gets sacrificed by beating on it that's ok by me. I'm putting in Timkens which should last a long time. OTOH, I normally consider any tool I buy to be an investment, that's why I was looking at the other Pit Posse PP1692 that's made to drive the bearing out.

I'll have a some time to ponder this as I'm hoping to continue taking the front end apart tomorrow to grease the neck bearings, oh Joy!
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Billy

 [attach=0,msg1287580]

I have the luxury of a lathe in my shop and made this ring specifically for these type wheels.

It's aluminum and measures 3.0" OD, 2.180" ID & .385" Thick.

Edit: added text
Lazyness is the Mother of Invention

rbabos

Quote from: Billy on March 17, 2019, 05:54:19 AM
[attach=0,msg1287580]

I have the luxury of a lathe in my shop and made this ring specifically for these type wheels.

It's aluminum and measures 3.0" OD, 2.180" ID & .385" Thick.

Edit: added text
I have one similar only 3/4 thick. Grabbed a whole bunch of tubes and spacers from the shop before I retired. Couldn't drag the lathe home with me.
Ron

Billy

Quote from: rbabos on March 17, 2019, 07:26:00 AM
Quote from: Billy on March 17, 2019, 05:54:19 AM
[attach=0,msg1287580]

I have the luxury of a lathe in my shop and made this ring specifically for these type wheels.

It's aluminum and measures 3.0" OD, 2.180" ID & .385" Thick.

Edit: added text
I have one similar only 3/4 thick. Grabbed a whole bunch of tubes and spacers from the shop before I retired. Couldn't drag the lathe home with me.
Ron

You win  :hyst:

They wouldn't let me drag one home either when I retired, but I found a decent deal on a used one.
Lazyness is the Mother of Invention

Rusticwater

I was able to remove both front wheel bearings (the original 9276 vintage) using my Pit Posse VT102. Here's the Workmate with a leaf removed for the right side wheel hub to face down.

[attach=0]


Here's the wheel getting prepped with tape to protect the rotor screws.

[attach=1]


Here's my old rear brake rotor to act as a bridge for the bearing puller. The left bearing came out without any problem.

[attach=2]
[attach=3]
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Rusticwater

It occurred to me that if I left the wheel in place and the right side wheel hub facing down through the gap didn't extend beyond the bottom of the Workmate deck, I could use the deck bottom as a bridge for the old rear brake rotor, and consequently the old brake rotor as a bridge for the gear puller as before, just working with everything upside down. It was bit of a pain to get everything lined up because I was sitting on the floor looking up, but it worked.

There was a bit of excitement right at the end when the right bearing broke free from the wheel hub. Between the brake rotor acting as a diaphragm spring along with gravity, everything came shooting down as if shot out of a cannon, ricocheted off the floor, and made a hell of a racket...the rotor, the puller, and the bearing! But nothing was harmed and all is good. Here's the right hub waiting for the new Timken bearings to arrive:

[attach=0]

My thanks again to all that offered advice!
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