04-13 vs 14-18 Clutch pull

[Sonny S.]

My GF picked up a 2007 1200 Low Saturday. We noticed on the 2014-2018 1200T the clutch pull is very easy compared to the earlier years.
I figured a new ramp or spring but nope. I compared the parts in the primary and they are the same. 2014 up did get new handlebar controls. Is the reduced pull comping from the lever ? If so I want to pick up later model controls and swap if the master is the same bore.
She's got smaller hands so the reach to the lever is a bit much, combined with the effort to pull the clutch in.

[hdbikedoc]

do a full adjustment and lube up cable usually really helps on pull

[Hossamania]

do a full adjustment and lube up cable usually really helps on pull

Start with that. Also inspect that cable, make sure it is not starting to fray. 11 years old at this point.
I like TriFlow as a cable lube. Remove it from the handle, make a tape funnel on the end of it, raise it up (I tie it to the bars) and spray some lube into the funnel and let it drain in.
Lube the wear points on the handle with a light grease. I use a thin smear of axle grease after thoroughly cleaning everything.
Every time I do this for friends, they are shocked at how nice their clutch works again.

[Sonny S.]

Yeah even though the 07 and up Teflon lined cables don't require lube I used a little tri-flow in it just incase someone did Lube it with something that gummed it up. The bike only has 10k miles on it and with the cable removed from the lever it doesn't feel bad moving in and out by hand as I was working the Lube in. I do grease all pivot and friction points with Lubriplate. I don't find the clutch pull to be an issue for me but I've been riding Harleys for 30 years and I'm used to it.
Her small hands are only able to get a finger tip on the lever so the pull is difficult. I went ahead and ordered one of those MRC ramps. We'll see what that does. Maybe an adjustable lever will be next.

The 2014 up Sportster has a redesigned lever and easier pull even though all the clutch parts are the same.

[Hossamania]

Can you loosen the cable adjuster a little to bring the handle closer, but still maintain enough travel to have no clutch drag?
Maybe even just try a new cable. That one might just be worn out, digging into the teflon, stretched, etc.

[Sonny S.]

Yes. However from what I understand about the MRC and Muller ramps adjustment is critical and they release right off the grip, and there should be no free play in the lever. I figure I need to reduce the pull anyway so I'll start there.
I'm still on a mission to find out what makes the 14-18 easier.

[Sonny S.]

Oh, yeah a new cable is next on the list if she feels like it's still a bit much after the ramps. Trying one $ at a time.. Lol

[Hossamania]

The cable is a lot cheaper than the ramps...

[Sonny S.]

Yes ramps $120 / cable $60 but the ramps are a guaranteed reduction in pull effort. I don't know that the cable is bad.

[Hossamania]

Hopefully that will solve the issue. Let us know how it works out.
Try the cable slack adjustment first, it might help, and if so, money saved!

[Sonny S.]

I did adjust her Kawasaki Enduro like that and her Triumph Bonneville has an adjustable lever and easier pull. This even wish extra free play it's still just not fun for her if a lot of shifting is involved.
I'll let you know on the ramps and if I find out what makes the 14-18 bikes easier. I'm hitting a swap meet this weekend and if I come across a 14 clutch perch I'll get it and try it

[Panzer]

Hi Sonny, long time no hear.....jeeeez.

Yes, if you do hear anything about the pull from 14-18 let us know please.
Thx guy. 

[Sonny S.]

Panzer !!! Hey buddy, yeah it has been a while. I'll definitely let you know what I find :-)

[Sonny S.]

Today I picked up a 2014-up $3 swap meet clutch lever for comparison.
The change in 2014 is purely cosmetic. The distance between the pivot point and the cable is the same. As well as the lever itself. Big difference compared to eary model though.
I tried posting pics but they are too big apparently. I haven't tried pics here since the photobucket days.. Lol

[Sonny S.]

Part 2-
I went to install the new MRC HD0002 easy pull ramps and I saw the stock HD outer ramp was really rubbing against the primary. I also noticed with the stock assembly in my hand and moving it in its normal pull direction that the outer ramp would move enough to extend past the edge of the inner.

I compared it to the new MRC ramps just to check them out and the HD outer ramp was 2.057 and the MRC was 2.045. When I moved the MRC through it's range of motion the outer never extended past the stationary inner.
I went to dry fit the MRC ramps and they wouldn't go in.. Hmmm.
In this case the MRC inner ramp was 2.094 and the HD was 2.084. It's kinda like MRC tested with a non chromed primary. I was going to remove metal from the MRC inner ramp and use it but the then its definitely mine like it or not.

I chose to address what looked like the obvious problem and take the whole .012 difference off the problem area of the stock outer ramp and gave it a quick polish as well as cleaned up the rub marks in the primary. This time when I moved the outer through its range it never extended past the inner.
Next time I go in I'll be able to see if the polished area has rubbed. It shouldn't.

Put it all back together and there is a very noticeable improvement, and now adjusting the clutch lever with extra free play to bring it in closer to the grip has made a difference. Before, it was minimal.

[Sonny S.]

Anyone notice rub marks on the primary from the outer ramp before ? I know the inner wiggles a tad but the outer shouldn't hit. Either way, giving it clearance made this clutch lever much easier to pull.

[Xyzzy]

Dunno if this helps, but a set of Muller ramps (67-030-0) with the stock clutch spring makes the clutch pull ridiculously easy. (It costs $150 or so.)

It is easy to adjust and it also increases the friction zone range.