probable dead Daytona Twin Tec TC88 ignition module

[PC_Hater]

First ride of the year and the now carbed 1999 FLTRI was cutting out. Came home on the back of a truck.

Started fault-finding in the garage.
Starts OK when cold and ticks over. Leave it ticking over for a couple of minutes and it stops. Will it  re-start? No.
Is there a spark? No.
Leave it for half an hour and it starts, blip the throttle sounds good, leave it for a couple of minutes and it stops. No spark.
Lights etc are fine.

OK, last time it did this a new coil fixed it, less then 3 years old but never mind, order a new one.
New HD coil arrived today. Fitted. Works. Annnd.... it makes no difference. The bike cuts out after a couple of minutes.
Look on the bright side - that means I have a fully working spare coil ready should it be needed in the future!

The conversion from EFI to carb meant I needed a new ignition module, the HD module was very hard to find so I fitted a Daytona Twin Tec TC88 module.
Bad News: following the Daytona Twin Tec TC88 fault-finding flow chart ends at the "Replace TC88" box!

I am going to investigate the wiring just in case, but I expect I will have to order a new TC88 ignition module.
I'm a bit vexed, we were meant to be riding down to mid-Wales tomorrow (Saturday), I even got up at 5am this morning to collect the coil from the Post Office depot so I would have a nice long day to swap it out and go for a long test-ride!

I knew I should have bought the Joe Hunt TC88 Magneto instead of sticking with this new-fangled electronic stuff. Only costs about $3,000 by the time it gets to the UK. My 45 chop has a Joe Hunt Magneto. That works, always, every time.

[speedzter]

Are you running the Cam position sensor ? If so, unplug it.
Have you tested the Crank sensor ?

[PC_Hater]

I don't use the Cam Position Sensor, I removed it when I did the carb conversion.
The ignition module should flash the engine check-light if there is a Crankshaft Position Sensor problem.

[rigidthumper]

Crank position sensor may be failing when hot. Seen it a dozen times.
Obtain a can of insta freeze. let bike get back to where it'll start. Start bike, let run till dies. Verify no spark. Spray the CKP sensor with insta freeze. If the spark comes back, there's your culprit.

[calif phil]

I just repaired an 02 Softail with the same symptoms. New CKP sensor took care of it. 

[PC_Hater]

The Crank Position Sensor is on order.
Unless there is one of those really difficult to find wring problems either the ignition module or the CPS should fix it on Friday.
And no matter what, I will have known good parts to swap in for next time!

[pwmorris]

 
Great advice here.
Parts fail, it's the nature of an electric (or most any) part.
You have the right attitude-go for the obvious, order the part, test, and eliminate it as the cause, and if it's not the culprit, keep as a spare.
My TC88-2 is an outstanding ignition and has lasted for years. Just for fun, test the battery under load (hot) conditions (also check under revs that alternator and stator are increasing voltage), and also double check all wires (to and from), for loose or exposed.

[trex]

If you have your stock ignition put it back on and if it runs then that's it. I had TWO DDT ignitions fail, first one they replaced and the second one after I shipped it to them they said it was good but my bike ran with the stock unit on while the DDT was away being tested, then when I got the supposed good DDT back bike wouldn't run. I sold it to one of the DDT faithful and have been running a Dynatek for a few years now with NO trouble, no ping that I could never eliminate with the DDT, easier to dial in and you can change dials by taking the seat off of a Dyna that can't be done with the DDT.

[PC_Hater]

Life and moving house got in the way.
However, the nice new DynaTek ignition module and the nice new Crank Position Sensor have fixed it!

What I don't know for sure is what fixed it...
I am reasonably certain the Daytone Twin Tec ignition unit was breaking down but perhaps the CPS was getting a bit dodgy and the DTT module couldn't cope with it but the new Dynatek could?

Anyway, I fitted the more modern CPS that has a nice connector on it. I cut the wires for the old sensor and attached the 2-way connector so in future it will be a simple swap out.

Parts you need:-
SENSOR, CRANKSHAFT POSITION : 32707-01C
SOCKET HOUSING, 2-WAY, BLACK : 74112-98BK
SOCKET, TERMINAL : 74191-98 you need TWO of these
SOCKET LOCK, 2-WAY : 74152-98

Went for a 120 mile ride in the rain today - never missed a beat.

[Hossamania]

Right on, glad you're back on the road. If my DTT breaks down, I may have to look into the Dyna Tell and the cps.
I am bookmarking this page.

[smoserx1]

Glad you got it fixed.  Just FYI both my bike and a car have had modules go bad...the ignition module on my FLHT and the powertrain control module on a Chevy Impala.  The motorcycle module just started cutting out.  It began once every few months and finally got so bad it was doing every 5 miles or so.  The PCM on the car gradually caused every bad behavior symptom you can imagine (stalling, severe knocking, exhaust smoke, runaway idle, hard starting and erratic transmission shifting) and threw a myriad of codes that made no sense at all.  I am glad that car didn't have throttle by wire, no telling what could have happened.  I also know of a buddy's wife who had a module fail on a Volvo stranding her on a busy urban boulevard and putting her in harms way.  They are not that reliable and do not last forever by any means.