2010 Ultra Classic General Questions

[Nooter99]

After almost 20 years of riding Fatboys, due to my advanced age (56) and some pretty bad back problems (also due to my advanced age) I will be buying a 2010 Ultra on Thursday. My first touring bike.

I'm just looking for some general thoughts on both that particular bike, and touring bikes in general.
Is there anything I need to keep an eye on as far as common problems with this particular year and model?
What would be the "must do" general upgrades to increase basic performance and comfort? Bike is about 90% stock.
Any advice on riding style compared to a Softail?

Basically anything you can tell me as far as what to expect over the coming days, months and years, as I finally have to admit that I'm so old and broken I have to switch to a bagger! LOL
Honestly, I'm looking forward to it. It'll be nice to ride more than 50 miles without feeling like I was hit by a truck the next day.

[thumpr54]

How many miles are on it ?......My 2009 Road King is about the same thing. I've replaced the compensator, auto primary chain adjuster and starter drive...I think the starter problem was a result of the compensator issue. I hadn't studied what kind of problems they were seeing on these. When it first acted up I thought maybe my starter switch was intermittent...didn't act up all the time...but then when it started making noise after I shut it down figured it was something else. At least it didn't leave me by the side of the road. Also had an intermittent problem where it'd go into forced idle mode....you can find some info on that on this site...P1510 was one of the error codes....and it seemed to be temperature dependent.....but mostly been a good ride....had less than 9K on it when I got it in 2010,,,,over 50K now..would be more but I had 2 flats on the rear in one season and bought a new Road Glide August of 2016 right before the M8s came out....that's been a good one so far.... the vents in the fairing not working....good luck

[Hossamania]

That pretty much covered it, chain tensioners, lifters (definitely do them when you do tensioners), compensator, a good tune after you do the stage 1.
Then, cams, big bore to 103, tune.

[tomboyjr]

 I sold my 2010 Ultra last year. I bought it new, sold it with 72k on it. It was pretty much trouble free for all those miles.
  One day at about 5 years old it went into limp mode. I turned the bike off, then on again and it was fine for a few miles, then did it again. I was near a dealer so I drove it there, and after 2 hours they couldn't find a problem, or make it do it again. I'm guessing they put dielectric grease on all the TB connections.  It never did it again.
In 2017 I was getting a check engine light, I forgot the code. But it was just a broken wire in the bundle of wires that run from under the tank along the frame into the fairing. Apparently its common, after years of turning the bars to the left to park it, the wires stretch. It was a bitch to find. Of the 12 or so little strands in that wire, 3 or 4 were still connected and so it would test ok for continuity.
I would cut and loosen the ties that hold that wire bundle, and then just ride the bike.

[Ohio HD]

If the exhaust is stock, there are catalytic converts in the mufflers. They hold back flow and generate heat. "If" yu are going to re-tune the FI,  this needs addressed the same time.

[Hossamania]

You mentioned it's 90% stock. What is not stock?

[Nooter99]

You mentioned it's 90% stock. What is not stock?

Motor and drive train is 100% stock. I was referring to a little bit of bling that has nothing to do with performance. I'll be doing a typical Stage 1, pipes, breather and tuner.

[mike49]

You should gain more ground clearance, helpful if you like to ride some of back country  road "twisties"

[chaos901]

I have a 2010 Ultra, the transmission gearing is much better than it was in 2007 or 2008 when it was too high.  I like the bigger tires and always forget that I have to unbolt the rear brake from the mount in order to remove the wheel.  The only issue I have ever had is the "limp mode" previously mentioned. 

[Nooter99]

Couple of you guys have mentioned the "limp home mode". What was the final diagnosis? Is it usually the same issue? Just in case I run into that.

[chaos901]

It is a "known" problem with Throttle By Wire bikes.  Those started in 2008 and possibly the problem was corrected since then, but my 2010 did it on a trip last year.  Got towed into a dealer and they cleaned the connecters to the throttle body, put some dielectric grease on them, put the connector back together and we were back on the road. 

[fleetmechanic]

We have several '09,'10,'11 and later bikes in our fleet.  2 consistent problems have been the steering head nut coming loose because there is no folded washer under them anymore and a transmission leak on the right side because the 2 lower cover bolts that also support the exhaust bracket work loose from vibration.  The pinched wires at the steering head have been seen a few times also.
But they are excellent rides overall.

[Leed]

I've got an 09 and have had the same limp home issue.  Cleaned the connectors at the throttle body and it hasn't happened again.  I did have the main drive gear bearing go south on me and that wasn't a fun repair but with a lot of advice from here I was able to fix it myself.  Other than that it's been a reliable ride.

[Nooter99]

Ok then, as soon as I get it home, I'll clean the throttle body connector and add some dielectric grease!
See, this is why I love HTT....Problem solved before it even starts!

[IronMike113]

Just Wait till you Dig into that Motor and Tranny,,,,,That's where we Really Shine on spending you Money,,,,,,,,,,, Hahahahaha 

[PBSTN]

Run the vin on Harley website. See if there are any standing recalls. I had one on my 10 road king that I bought last year. I cleaned the throttle body connecter. And I pulled each fuse. Cleaned em and put dielectric grease on them also.

[Ohio HD]

Ok then, as soon as I get it home, I'll clean the throttle body connector and add some dielectric grease!
See, this is why I love HTT....Problem solved before it even starts!

Dielectric  grease keeps the connections cleaner and moisture free, also helps eliminate some fretting at the connections. The 2008 through 2011 or so I think were most likley to have connection issues. The actual connection fix is using the newer solder on terminals, they're a gold plate if I remember correctly.

And there are other reasons for the system to go into limp mode. Usually those issues keep you stranded until you fix the problem.

[thumpr54]

The dielectric grease and replacement pins didn't fix mine...it was very intermittent...temp related....here's my post from years ago describing it.....

if you're still dealing with this issue....I have 09 RK that I got when it was a year old. Had intermittent P1510 and I think the 2138 codes...would occasionally go into limp/idle mode. Rode at idle almost 20 miles near Anamosa, Iowa one year...had it to 2 different dealers and they'd reset the codes and CND(could not duplicate)...they replaced the pins on TB connector..one told me i needed a new wiring harness !......I finally figured out it was thermal....when it got to a particular temp...in my case when ambient temp was 70 degrees...it would miss a few times then give codes and go into limp mode...sometimes just resetting the IGN switch would get me going again...sit over night and it'd run fine again...I put a thermometer on it to confirm...had the wiring all apart checking. I never knew for sure......but after I pulled the MAP sensor off the throttle body one winter..blew it out and squirted a little lube/penetrant on it....it's never failed again in 5 years....don't know if it had a connection I moved around or something with the sensor....but I'm still keeping my fingers crossed....fixed electronics for 40 years...them intermittents are a PIA...

[genzer]

I didn't have any problems with mine ( except for the crash ) put in a set of Andrews 48 : made a nice difference.

[les]

Change the compensator.  They made the SE comp standard equipment on the 2011.  Detachable tourpak.  If you're not riding 2-up very often, it's not to not have the bike too top heavy.  9" inch wind screen.  It's easier to see the road over it, and it still takes the air over top.  A riders back rest.  The back rest gives you comfort and more stability with your hands on the controls because you're not having to support your body with your arms.  I don't know how tall you are, but if you've got short legs, then maybe a lowering kit.  Get the connector accessory (connects under the seat) that keeps the two front passing lights on when you go to high beam.  Much better for older eyes on dark roads to have all three lights flooding the road with light.

[Nooter99]

Change the compensator.  They made the SE comp standard equipment on the 2011.  Detachable tourpak.  If you're not riding 2-up very often, it's not to not have the bike too top heavy.  9" inch wind screen.  It's easier to see the road over it, and it still takes the air over top.  A riders back rest.  The back rest gives you comfort and more stability with your hands on the controls because you're not having to support your body with your arms.  I don't know how tall you are, but if you've got short legs, then maybe a lowering kit.  Get the connector accessory (connects under the seat) that keeps the two front passing lights on when you go to high beam.  Much better for older eyes on dark roads to have all three lights flooding the road with light.

All good info Les! Will definitely look into replacing the compensator. Tour Pak will be in the garage 90% of the time. I'll ride it for awhile to see about the windshield. Backrest will be a must with my back problems (he may already have one, if I remember correctly). I'm 6 ft, probably won't  need to lower it. The running light thing is a must have IMO. Thanks for all the info. And thanks to everyone else too.

[jamminhd2000]

Change the compensator.  They made the SE comp standard equipment on the 2011. Detachable tourpak.  If you're not riding 2-up very often, it's not to not have the bike too top heavy.  9" inch wind screen.  It's easier to see the road over it, and it still takes the air over top.  A riders back rest.  The back rest gives you comfort and more stability with your hands on the controls because you're not having to support your body with your arms.  I don't know how tall you are, but if you've got short legs, then maybe a lowering kit.  Get the connector accessory (connects under the seat) that keeps the two front passing lights on when you go to high beam.  Much better for older eyes on dark roads to have all three lights flooding the road with light.

All good info Les! Will definitely look into replacing the compensator. Tour Pak will be in the garage 90% of the time. I'll ride it for awhile to see about the windshield. Backrest will be a must with my back problems (he may already have one, if I remember correctly). I'm 6 ft, probably won't  need to lower it. The running light thing is a must have IMO. Thanks for all the info. And thanks to everyone else too.

I may be wrong but I believe se compensator was made standard in 2014 Rushmore bikes....jimmy

[Ohio HD]

Change the compensator.  They made the SE comp standard equipment on the 2011. Detachable tourpak.  If you're not riding 2-up very often, it's not to not have the bike too top heavy.  9" inch wind screen.  It's easier to see the road over it, and it still takes the air over top.  A riders back rest.  The back rest gives you comfort and more stability with your hands on the controls because you're not having to support your body with your arms.  I don't know how tall you are, but if you've got short legs, then maybe a lowering kit.  Get the connector accessory (connects under the seat) that keeps the two front passing lights on when you go to high beam.  Much better for older eyes on dark roads to have all three lights flooding the road with light.

All good info Les! Will definitely look into replacing the compensator. Tour Pak will be in the garage 90% of the time. I'll ride it for awhile to see about the windshield. Backrest will be a must with my back problems (he may already have one, if I remember correctly). I'm 6 ft, probably won't  need to lower it. The running light thing is a must have IMO. Thanks for all the info. And thanks to everyone else too.

I may be wrong but I believe se compensator was made standard in 2014 Rushmore bikes....jimmy

SE style compensator started coming on model year 2011 bikes.

2016 bikes are when HD incorporated the drip oil scoops on the inner primary cover to oil the compensator.

[les]

Change the compensator.  They made the SE comp standard equipment on the 2011. Detachable tourpak.  If you're not riding 2-up very often, it's not to not have the bike too top heavy.  9" inch wind screen.  It's easier to see the road over it, and it still takes the air over top.  A riders back rest.  The back rest gives you comfort and more stability with your hands on the controls because you're not having to support your body with your arms.  I don't know how tall you are, but if you've got short legs, then maybe a lowering kit.  Get the connector accessory (connects under the seat) that keeps the two front passing lights on when you go to high beam.  Much better for older eyes on dark roads to have all three lights flooding the road with light.

All good info Les! Will definitely look into replacing the compensator. Tour Pak will be in the garage 90% of the time. I'll ride it for awhile to see about the windshield. Backrest will be a must with my back problems (he may already have one, if I remember correctly). I'm 6 ft, probably won't  need to lower it. The running light thing is a must have IMO. Thanks for all the info. And thanks to everyone else too.

I may be wrong but I believe se compensator was made standard in 2014 Rushmore bikes....jimmy

SE style compensator started coming on model year 2011 bikes.

2016 bikes are when HD incorporated the drip oil scoops on the inner primary cover to oil the compensator.

Exactly, and because he'd be buying the SE comp over the counter new, it will come with the scoops which eliminate (at least on mine) the fretting.

[MikeL]

Being that all the mechanical demons have been listed. I would like to share my thoughts on owning a H/D Ultra Classic
I'm 57 and have a bad back, bad knees, fused right wrist and a placated diaphragm.
I own a 2002 fat Boy, 2000RKC, and 2007 Ultra Classic. Out of all of them the 2007 is top heavy. Add any weight in tour pack it makes slow speed maneuvering difficult at times, especially if you have a passenger on board. Getting on and off  due to the tour pack in more difficult compared to the fatboy and RKC. I have a back support pad and it adds to the difficulty of getting off. I also installed leather saddle bag covers. I kept hitting the tops with my shoes when getting off so now I scuff the leather. In my case the stock seat is uncomfortable I have a mustang touring seat on the RKC gonna swap that out.
This bike also has the fiberglass lowers. These are great at highway speeds keeping the wind down and water off when it rains however when in traffic, stop and go the heat is pretty substantial especially down here in Florida. I did install Andrews 48 cams which did help with getting the heat down.
Comparing the 3 bikes. The Ultra would be my 1st choice for a long trip with a passenger. The RKC is right up there but dosen't have the wind and water protection or radio. The fatboy could tour I just use it for short runs on good weather days
You will get used to riding it.

                                                                                                       MIKE