Does this sound like my ignition module gone bad?

[dynabagger]

Been getting codes thrown from my Crane HI-4TC lately. 5 blinks = high battery voltage and 3 blinks MAP signal out of range. It only happens when on highway running 120 kph and up and 3500RPM for extended periods. I have a lithium battery and was worried I might cook it. Battery voltage measured while charging is 14.4V. Seems alright. Bike was running good but did notice high gear roll on ping but thought might just be me twisting too hard for 5th gear. Did seem unusual though. Poured 100ml of seafoam in a nearly full tank just to clean things up.
My thoughts where that maybe the regulator was going. i had a old spare that was working so I decided to change it while waiting for a new Cycle Electric to arrive. Also ordered a new MAP sensor for cheap on ebay.
Now after changing the regulator the bike won't start. Cranks fine, gets a good spark but will back fire or just crank but not fire. Checked grounds and battery terminals. Pulled MAP sensor and pulled a vacuum with readings of 4.7V @ 0" to 1.1V @ 20". MAP ground and continuity to crane unit checked good. No pinched wires other than a bare bit exposed on the horn wire. Unplugged the regulator from the stator and took the hot off the CB and no difference.
Now its all back together and as soon as I finish my breakfast I'll try again. But I'm starting to think the 17 year old crane module has packed up.
The bikes an 01 Dyna 117". Sorry about the long post.

[dynabagger]

 Update. Leak down good. Compression good.

[rredneckn2]

17 years out of a crane ignition WOW! Never have used a TC hi-4 but have personally seen many hi-4 nosecone units live a less than desirable life. Looks like it's time on order a DTT ignition. I have used those on Twin cams excellent results.

[dynabagger]

Well I put a stock module on and still won't fire. Weird thing is I get a spark. Gas is getting to the carb. Probably something really dumb. I'm putting everything back the way it was and starting over.

[bobrk1]

Had a 4 on my  rk years  ago  had  it dyno  tuned  was  running  great  a week  or  so  later  started  to  ping, ign went  bad. Let  us  know  why it  didn't  start 

[Ironheadmike]

probably so . I'm still running a nosecone HI4 since 98 in my 92 springer with absolutely no problems . (knock on wood)

[dynabagger]

As mentioned with the stock ign module the results were the same.

[PC_Hater]

Is it time for a new Crank Position Sensor?

[dynabagger]

Is it time for a new Crank Position Sensor?

The CEL goes out when cranking. I believe it would not if the CKP sensor had failed. I have a spare and may end the up trying it though. Thanks

[Boe Cole]

Spark plug wires reversed?

[Ironpig9]

I go with PCHater: crank position sensor. If you go with this it can be a pain in the A** due to the wiring. Many HD shops cut the wires near the sensor and splice so they don't have to pull wires thru tubes. My 01 lost the sensor and did exactly as you describe (spark, fuel and air = no start). Good luck.

[smoserx1]

Whatever you do please don't cut the wires and splice the new one CKP sensor in.  There is a small screw holding the harness to the engine case.  Once you remove the screw and disconnect the Deutsch housing from under the frame you can remove the wires from the housing by pressing tabs inside the housing with a small flat screwdriver and get them out.  Use a piece of string or fishing line to remove and install the  sensor through the tube.  It looks like it will be a PIA bit if you are patient it is not bad at all.

[dynabagger]

I'll try the CKP sensor running the wire externally first. Unfortunately my work schedule for the next two weeks won't leave me much time to work on it.

[PC_Hater]

Whatever you do please don't cut the wires and splice the new one CKP sensor in.  There is a small screw holding the harness to the engine case.  Once you remove the screw and disconnect the Deutsch housing from under the frame you can remove the wires from the housing by pressing tabs inside the housing with a small flat screwdriver and get them out.  Use a piece of string or fishing line to remove and install the  sensor through the tube.  It looks like it will be a PIA bit if you are patient it is not bad at all.

The Dynas are interestingly different to my 99 bagger. Mine was as described above but last week I converted it to use the newer plug-in CKP sensor so in future I can easily swap it out.
Parts you need:-
SENSOR, CRANKSHAFT POSITION : 32707-01C
SOCKET HOUSING, 2-WAY, BLACK : 74112-98BK
SOCKET, TERMINAL : 74191-98 you need TWO of these
SOCKET LOCK, 2-WAY : 74152-98

I used the proper tool for crimping the terminals but careful use of long-nose pliers will do a reasonable job if that is all you have.

[dynabagger]

Update. CKP sensor was the problem. Thanks to all that helped. This place is awesome.

FWIW. I thought it might reveal a bad sensor by checking resistance. Being an inductive sensor (2 wire) as opposed to a hall effect sensor (3 wire) the induced voltage should not damage it. New CKP sensor measures 975 ohms. Old 4 megohms (open circuit). 

https://axleaddict.com/auto-repair/How-to-Test-a-Crankshaft-Position-Sensor-Using-a-Multimeter