Keyed Switch Ignition Relay ? Maybe?

[wayzalot]

On my 1999 Ultra Classic the last few times I road, when I turned the key on, the neutral light would not come on.  I would wiggle the switch just a tad and it would come on.  Then the last time I road it, I had to turn switch off and on a few times before it would come on.  Got almost home and it died. I could not get it to turn power back on no matter how many times I turned the switch back and forth.  I pushed it for the 1st time in 110,000 miles. I figured my switch was bad so I replaced it.  Same thing, no power to the lights or starter push button.  So I wasted the money on the switch.  When I turn on the switch the tac. light comes on but no other lights.  The keyed switch ignition relay slowly gets warm.  Do you think this has gone bad?  I haven't replaced or added anything to the bike recently so we can eliminate that idea. The keyed switch ignition relay is in the fairing just below the right speaker.

[Boe Cole]

check the relay for continuity.  I've had relays go bad - usually from arcing in the contacts.  Some of them come apart very easily and you can visually see if there is a build up on the contacts.  For the most part, you can get a replacement from your local auto parts store very inexpensively.

[wayzalot]

check the relay for continuity.  I've had relays go bad - usually from arcing in the contacts.  Some of them come apart very easily and you can visually see if there is a build up on the contacts.  For the most part, you can get a replacement from your local auto parts store very inexpensively.

Well that's encouraging.  Napa probably a few bucks.  Harley probably $50.  Are they all the same. 4 wire relay?  It has the usual numbers, 85, 86, 87, 87A and 30. I imagine the 30 stands for amps?

[Boe Cole]

Assuming its the typical 4 plug relay, you should be good to go from napa.  If you look at the relay, often there is a schematic printed or embossed on the relay showing the circuit.  Every 4 plug relay i've ever worked with is the same but please bear in mind that I'm not an expert and would recommend you looking at the schematic to confirm its the same as the one currently in the bike. 

To do a continuity check on a relay, pass 12 volts from the battery to the two connectors shown as the magnet on the relay and do the resistance check on the other two.  I don't recall relays getting hot when they are energized but I've never checked for that.  On the other hand, continuity problems do create resistance which creates heat.  From the description of your problem, I'd focus on the relay, especially with 100k on the clock.  I've had relay issues before and they are hard to diagnose and can be problematic.  As I noted earlier, some relay covers come off easily and you can check the contacts - and clean them with a contact file in an emergency.

[smoserx1]

I imagine the 30 stands for amps?

No.  30 is the incoming high current side.  87 is the high current exit side (normally open) and on 5 terminal relays 87A is the high current exit side (normally closed).  85 and 86 are the low current terminals (the power that actually activates the relay coil)

https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/relay-guide.html

You can temporarily swap out one of the others (brake light or starter, under the seat) to test it.  They are all the same.  And the H-D part should only be 12 dollars or so.  I have just aded an extra horn and relay to my 99 FLHT so this stuff is fresh in my mind.

[wayzalot]

Yep that was it. The relay. I took it apart and it looked good. Tinkered with it a bit and tried it with the cover off and it worked.  Went a head and replaced it with a new one from Napa.  Cost me $21.00.  My closes Harley dealer is an hour away so Napa it is.
Thanks you all.

[Hossamania]

 Sweet!

[Boe Cole]

Outstanding - glad we could help.