HarleyTechTalk

Quote from: Hossamania on Yesterday at 06:13:14 PMWhich year and model?
There are throttle adjustments that can be made in software on drive by wire systems.

2013 Electra Glide Classic. The free play is there is slack that needs eliminated.

Which year and model?
There are throttle adjustments that can be made in software on drive by wire systems.

This topic has been moved to General.

https://harleytechtalk.com/htt/index.php?topic=122342.0

Is there any way to adjust throttle free play out of thes fuel injected bikes like you can with carbureted bikes?

If I would have known that , I would have gone further with the procedure. I mearly went with the instructions and picture. It's now back together and everything seems fine. Thanks for the info just the same.You cannot see attachments on this board.

You may end up having some success doing that. But in the end I think you need to have a proper dyno tune. If you look at the dyno sheet in the link below, you are down quite a bit from what the 120ST should give you. He also has a really good exhaust system. 


https://harleytechtalk.com/htt/index.php/topic,85318.0.html

2013 Ultra Limited with 120ST. I'm not sure how the right way to describe the issue, but here goes. Mainly when hot the engine kind of lurches every 3 to 6 seconds. Raising the RPM's up to about 1100 makes it a lot better. I had the bike dynotuned, but I don't think the tuner knew what he was doing. Power wasn't too impressive 108 hp, 118 torque.
ever since I had it tuned (about 3 years) I've had a lot of decel popping. I fixed that by watching videos on youtube, so now I want to see if I can take care of the hot idle issue.

The fuel mileage seems to be too low, so I'm thinking maybe I need to lean it out some. I've got a Power Vision so I was thinking about just using the quick tune and lean out the lower RPM by 1% increments.

Does that sound reasonable? If I change it about 6% and see no difference, I'll probably just go back to 0% and try something else.

Below, #14 the shims, this is where they get placed.

I don't see that as causing any functioning issues that you would feel, or that would shorten the life of the components. As long as the springs aren't binding against anything the pressure would remain the same.

Many people bolt them on and go. But they should be measured and shimmed if needed. Joe Lyons brought that process to HTT.

https://harleytechtalk.com/htt/index.php/topic,68275.msg1169753.html#msg1169753

https://harleytechtalk.com/htt/index.php?topic=82010.msg917659#msg917659

As I was disassembling the compensator, I found that the spring discs were installed exactly backwards of what is shown in the instruction sheet. I wonder what affect that has on the function/longevity of the comp.