HarleyTechTalk

Quote from: ultrafxr on December 26, 2023, 03:03:54 PM

Quote from: wfolarry on December 24, 2023, 04:49:54 AM

Quote from: pauly on December 23, 2023, 02:30:45 PMHi all
Update on this issue - it's no longer an issue, however drinking oil became a problem.
I've been unable to replicate the lack of performance in 4000 ks, and I've tried in numerous conditions.

What did seem to become an issue was oil consumption. It seemed that every few hundred ks, I'd loose another couple of notches on the dipstick. Anyhoo, about 2 weeks ago, I loaded the wife and some luggage, let her know I was going to hammer it a few times, and did exactly that, a number of times over a 600 k ride. The oil consumption has stopped.
So, for those of you that are suffering oil consumption with your m8, and haven't tried aggressively seating your rings, turn off the traction control, and give it a go. YMMV but it seems to have worked for me.

Thanks
Pauly

That doesn't happen. Your rings were seated long before that.

Or not.  In any case doing this now really changes nothing.  Rings are seated or no seated (and never will be) by this state.

I build a high horsepower sportster engine for a lady customer ,she wanted it quickly ready to go on a long trip trough Scandinavie. I rode the bike with Shel rotella 10w40 for the first 400 miles and then changed to the oil to synthetic 20w 50 and let her ride off . She came back after 2000 miles and told me the bike used a lot of oil and had bleu smoke ...rings not seated properly because to early use of  the synthetic oil and not enough riding in miles. Changed the oil again to Shell Rotella and hit the bike for 100 miles ,the hard way , high rpm's and very fast riding with a lot of rpm changes up and down ....the bike has now 7000 miles and runs like hell , the breather tube is completely dry and she runs synthetic oil . Ring seating can be done but you have to know what you are doing .
 

I had a customer bike ,Roadking 114 cu from 2017 ,stage 4 with broken valvesprings , bike had 10.000 miles when it happend .
I noticed that the max engine rpm in the tuner ,that came along with this kit , was set at 7000 rpm's !
Customer was on the highway and wanted to let the bike run like hell,all the way up the scale to 7000 rpm and then the spring broke . I replaced oilpump/valvesprings/cam /lifters in favor for an S&S kit .
Bike pulls a lot harder and boosts 134 rwhp ,and no problems with valvesprings breaking .

This trigger log is off a 32 -2 harley style wheel.  With more resolution.  You can see the pattern of the slowed crank and how one would communicate this to the ECU to find what cycle engine is in.  This is one way the HD Delphi system does it.  Easy to see how removing plugs would screw with the reading.  Engine wont spark or fuel until it syncs.  This also means that the way the ECM knows the engine is being cranked to start is by this same trigger process.  Meaning, solenoid push button starters and start carts will work.  Maxx will allow you to run start circuit through it.  Allows features such has Bluetooth phone starting and ctrl S starts from key board.  Can also latch the start button for momentary press like the new cars.  Neat to play with in the shop but not practical in the field.

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They don't line up. Rear is dished about 1/2". Needs to come out about 3/8". Tire is pretty much centered in swingarm. I have never had the rear wheel off. I did have issues fitting an inner primary, but I actually moved the trans out. Sportster sprocket?

I removed the roll pins from the starter housing. The starter fits. Appears it was more of a horizontal clearance issue.

One additional note is to make either a through hole or a recess to allow space for the alignment bushing for the cam plate.

Normally I would have put out dimensions with this, but I really don't have a plan to make one, and it needs to be laid out with a right side case for accuracy. If you have the means any mill with a DRO will give you all of the drilling points C/L to transfer to a drawing and layout of the aluminum block.


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This is the first that I've seen a commercially sold fixture to aid in setting up M8 heads. I'm sure the guys that work on M8 heads have built thier own.

Speed and Science M8 Head Fixture
 

1/16 inch. approx.

I prefer to shim the shocks rather than load the spring. Loading the spring puts the progressive spring in a higher spring rate. That means rougher ride. The company is great to deal with and they sell the tool and the shims.(I copied it and made it to save $$). When setup properly you will get a great ride and the bike won't bottom out when going over those road dips that make your spine complain.

I am short, use their lowering shocks and have em setup right. Sweet ride 2up no complaints from wife.

https://www.speedaddicts.com/motorcycle/progressive-suspension-standard-shocks-spring-tool-32-5508?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw6JS3BhBAEiwAO9waF-32FBLeDTWz0P1Ej2T2i2qIGWrkr9xkF6vlE3vHUXdy-EMPewQ8ghoC4gQQAvD_BwE

Save a copy of the current tune as a base map backup, unmodified. That way you have a fallback if ever needed.

I'll post on what I come up with.