I got a clutch basket and the matching comp sprocket from a '04 big twin, put a 66T ring gear on and got a extra plate clutch, assembled everything and the flange bolts are hitting the inside edge of the outer primary where the derby mounts. anyone do this upgrade? Is it the extra plate that's giving me problems?
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Not an answer to your question but looking at the thread engagement of the pushrod adjuster screw, I would be concerned about it. Generally, the last thread (on a stud / bolt) is not effective due to the way the die that threads it rolls a taper at the end. The last (at least) +2 threads in the nut are not engaged with the stud and could be deformed or stripped easily or just simply fail due to the reduced thread interlock. That is unusual and in my opinion may be an indication of excessive clutch plate stack height. Have you measured it (stack height) and compared it to the allowable spec?
I also noticed the adjuster screw, going to check if the 92' is different from the 98'.
Is the chain alignment correct?
Did you remove the damper spring and seat when you installed the extra plate kit?
Quote from: rigidthumper on November 30, 2018, 06:47:02 AM
Is the chain alignment correct?
Did you remove the damper spring and seat when you installed the extra plate kit?
Yes & yes.
the difference between the the 2 sprocket faces is .009"
I'm not in a position to check at the moment BUT what's the width difference between the '92 & '98 inner and outer primarys?
I can see thread so it looks like the ring isn't screwed all the way on ...
Post another pic without the spring
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My buddy used the '98 clutch assembly on a '94 model, but was a Softail. It was tight, but cleared everything.
http://harleytechtalk.com/htt/index.php?topic=72771.0
Quote from: FSG on December 01, 2018, 04:14:29 PM
I'm not in a position to check at the moment BUT what's the width difference between the '92 & '98 inner and outer primarys?
I can see thread so it looks like the ring isn't screwed all the way on ...
Post another pic without the spring
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I agree the spring retainer should sit lower and the spring should be compressed
almost flat
Screws are torqued to 100 in. lbs. If tightened anymore they can break off in the hub. Did that years ago on my old RoadGlide. Had the hub pressed into the basket, at a local shop. Can a hub not be pressed in all the way?
Quote from: Ohio HD on December 01, 2018, 04:25:01 PM
My buddy used the '98 clutch assembly on a '94 model, but was a Softail. It was tight, but cleared everything.
http://harleytechtalk.com/htt/index.php?topic=72771.0
When I put a Bandit clutch, etc., in my '96 RK, it also would not clear the primary cover. Since extended primaries are too expensive, I went to a company that does laser cutting and had a 3/16th stainless steel spacer for the primary made. Worked out well. If the problem with yours is simply that the combo does not fit (rather than an installation error), you might try the spacer idea.
You can buy a derby cover spacer and gasket from AIM or Barnett.
damn it , since im doing exact same thing on same bike , im wandering what you will find out before i get to this
This has been done countless times by myself and many of my (and the OP's) friends. All without issue. All the talk of spacers, etc is a band aid. There is something else going in the Op's bike. I know him, he will figure it out. In the mean time, The '98 and up clutch upgrade is really as simple as a ring gear change and bolt in. Been there, done that. Countless others have as well.
Quote from: turboprop on December 03, 2018, 06:19:06 PM
This has been done countless times by myself and many of my (and the OP's) friends. All without issue. All the talk of spacers, etc is a band aid. There is something else going in the Op's bike. I know him, he will figure it out. In the mean time, The '98 and up clutch upgrade is really as simple as a ring gear change and bolt in. Been there, done that. Countless others have as well.
:agree: I think the adjuster nut thread engagement issue would be a good place to focus. It is a glaring issue that will need to be addressed anyway.
Ok, don't ask me to point to a "smoking gun", because I'm baffled. I took everything apart, measured everything, only thing I changed was the pressure plate, thanks Turboprop. Couldn't detect any difference, but the plate I got from Turboprop showed no threads on the flange bolts like the other did, after torquing. I did grind the heads some for good measure, not pretty, but clear the outer cover. (photo attached). kd pointed out the the adjuster, and I recall it having the same depth with the old/OE parts, but believe his observation had merit, so I ordered a new adjuster, and the end that contacted the push rod looked better than the old, plus the new adjuster was few thou' longer. (pic attached) Took it for a spin, all seems good. 2 runs with speedo buried in 4th gear, no slipping,.......so far. :embarrassed: Turboprop suggested this upgrade, and I'm grateful for his suggestion/advice and the parts he sent. All you others who posted, I'm appreciative as well. This is one heck of a fine community.
hbkeith, don't worry, you'll be glad you made the effort.
good deal and props to turbo. Where you purchase your ring gear?
Quote from: Deye76 on December 07, 2018, 05:13:02 PM
Ok, don't ask me to point to a "smoking gun", because I'm baffled. I took everything apart, measured everything, only thing I changed was the pressure plate, thanks Turboprop. Couldn't detect any difference, but the plate I got from Turboprop showed no threads on the flange bolts like the other did, after torquing. I did grind the heads some for good measure, not pretty, but clear the outer cover. (photo attached). kd pointed out the the adjuster, and I recall it having the same depth with the old/OE parts, but believe his observation had merit, so I ordered a new adjuster, and the end that contacted the push rod looked better than the old, plus the new adjuster was few thou' longer. (pic attached) Took it for a spin, all seems good. 2 runs with speedo buried in 4th gear, no slipping,.......so far. :embarrassed: Turboprop suggested this upgrade, and I'm grateful for his suggestion/advice and the parts he sent. All you others who posted, I'm appreciative as well. This is one heck of a fine community.
hbkeith, don't worry, you'll be glad you made the effort.
Glad to hear you got it straightened out. This really is a great, low cost upgrade for an older bike like an FXR. Now all you have to do is decide who you know but don't really like and give them that earlier model clutch for Christmas.
Im taking notes Deye LOL , im a ways behind you , got my stock engine out , fixing to pull and clean oil tank today . what is the pressure plate you wound up using ? :up: Torbo
The diameter difference of 20 mm less for the 3-hole derby cover than the 5-hole derby cover, may well explain your problem, since you have a 3-hole outer primary cover.
ecir50, local shop, came from Drag, hbkeith, PP is OE for 98 & up. xlfan, the derby wasn't a problem, it was the inside of the outer cover below the derby. Turboprop, LOL don't know anyone I dislike that much.
Well, given the diameter difference, I would think that the outer cover casting edge would be about 3/8" lower on a 5-hole cover than on a 3-hole outer cover. Wouldn't that give you clearance for the bolt heads?
For a stock-ish 80", what benefit does the '98-later clutch provide? I have no slip at all with the stock clutch. Leave it alone?
-JW
Quote from: JW113 on December 12, 2018, 03:47:02 PM
For a stock-ish 80", what benefit does the '98-later clutch provide? I have no slip at all with the stock clutch. Leave it alone?
-JW
a good post
Quote from: JW113 on December 12, 2018, 03:47:02 PM
For a stock-ish 80", what benefit does the '98-later clutch provide?
Way better than a 4 post tapered shaft clutch.
There might be an argument for the 3 stud (4 speed style) clutch.
The big pluss's are the 98+ has a much lighter rotating mass and has a better lever feel and releases better.
Rick, you're describing a shovelhead clutch aren't ya there bud? I'm talking about the earlier style evo clutch, which the diaphram spring is held in with a big snap ring.
-JW
I think he's referring to the four studs on the early Evo clutch hub.
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The first EVOs came with a 4 speed clutch
with the 5 speed came the L84-89 clutch pictured above.
This clutch was a total POS the 4 posts would break off the hub and the hub center was so thin it would split through the keyway
Next was the 90-97 clutch (snap ring style)
the aluminum snap ring retaining portions easily break off
The earlier style EVO clutch you describe, was splined shaft and was in use from -90 to -97.
The 4-post taper shaft EVO clutch was in use from -85 to -89.