since the MoCo has had nothing but problems with their compensators for years, what is everyone using on their high powered builds? Im currently on comp #4 on my bone stock 96" motor and im currently using the latest one with the glue on oil tray but im going to be doing a 124 motor swap this winter and im not looking forward to more compensator issues this will im sure bring. are you using a compensator or the solid eliminator sprocket?
Latest model comp with the tray seems to be working as well as anything, as long as the stack up height is correct.
Quote from: Rob L on January 31, 2019, 08:01:35 AM
since the MoCo has had nothing but problems with their compensators for years, what is everyone using on their high powered builds? Im currently on comp #4 on my bone stock 96" motor and im currently using the latest one with the glue on oil tray but im going to be doing a 124 motor swap this winter and im not looking forward to more compensator issues this will im sure bring. are you using a compensator or the solid eliminator sprocket?
I have been running a solid front sprocket on my TC124 for over a year and just did some exploratory surgery. The crank came with less than .001". Some may recall this bike had a major catastrophe with a clutch shell that broke in half, broke the primary chain in two places, split the inner primary case, etc. It was during the rebuild for that event that I put the solid sprocket in. 10k miles later the crank still has less than .001 runout.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/876/26251681527_7b0a140892_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/FZLJjK)
I never had a problem with the comp in my 08 96". From what I'm reading about all of the failures I don't expect it to last too long with more cubes. Following to see what the best solid is and if a new chain is needed.
Quote from: turboprop on January 31, 2019, 08:49:31 AM
Quote from: Rob L on January 31, 2019, 08:01:35 AM
since the MoCo has had nothing but problems with their compensators for years, what is everyone using on their high powered builds? Im currently on comp #4 on my bone stock 96" motor and im currently using the latest one with the glue on oil tray but im going to be doing a 124 motor swap this winter and im not looking forward to more compensator issues this will im sure bring. are you using a compensator or the solid eliminator sprocket?
I have been running a solid front sprocket on my TC124 for over a year and just did some exploratory surgery. The crank came with less than .001". Some may recall this bike had a major catastrophe with a clutch shell that broke in half, broke the primary chain in two places, split the inner primary case, etc. It was during the rebuild for that event that I put the solid sprocket in. 10k miles later the crank still has less than .001 runout.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/876/26251681527_7b0a140892_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/FZLJjK)
How are the Vibes? Or a any other things that are noticeable from a the conversion,Good or bad
Quote from: IRONMIKE113 on January 31, 2019, 05:57:49 PM
Quote from: turboprop on January 31, 2019, 08:49:31 AM
Quote from: Rob L on January 31, 2019, 08:01:35 AM
since the MoCo has had nothing but problems with their compensators for years, what is everyone using on their high powered builds? Im currently on comp #4 on my bone stock 96" motor and im currently using the latest one with the glue on oil tray but im going to be doing a 124 motor swap this winter and im not looking forward to more compensator issues this will im sure bring. are you using a compensator or the solid eliminator sprocket?
I have been running a solid front sprocket on my TC124 for over a year and just did some exploratory surgery. The crank came with less than .001". Some may recall this bike had a major catastrophe with a clutch shell that broke in half, broke the primary chain in two places, split the inner primary case, etc. It was during the rebuild for that event that I put the solid sprocket in. 10k miles later the crank still has less than .001 runout.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/876/26251681527_7b0a140892_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/FZLJjK)
How are the Vibes? Or a any other things that are noticeable from a the conversion,Good or bad
I cannot tell any difference. Same with the BS claims of faster acceleration, easier starting, less noise, etc. I was seriously hoping to experience all sorts of magical things, but no. I did put one in my current project bike, but not because it was superior to a traditional compensator, I am just cheap. Its a new build, and the cost of the solid was much less. I have no experience with the new style harley compensators that seem to be as problematic as TC lifters. Hahahaha. I would not hesitate to hesitate to put one any bike I might own in the future.
Quote from: turboprop on January 31, 2019, 08:49:31 AM
Quote from: Rob L on January 31, 2019, 08:01:35 AM
since the MoCo has had nothing but problems with their compensators for years, what is everyone using on their high powered builds? Im currently on comp #4 on my bone stock 96" motor and im currently using the latest one with the glue on oil tray but im going to be doing a 124 motor swap this winter and im not looking forward to more compensator issues this will im sure bring. are you using a compensator or the solid eliminator sprocket?
I have been running a solid front sprocket on my TC124 for over a year and just did some exploratory surgery. The crank came with less than .001". Some may recall this bike had a major catastrophe with a clutch shell that broke in half, broke the primary chain in two places, split the inner primary case, etc. It was during the rebuild for that event that I put the solid sprocket in. 10k miles later the crank still has less than .001 runout.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/876/26251681527_7b0a140892_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/FZLJjK)
Someone sent me a PM asking about this primary drive setup. This is the build after the clutch basket broke in half and split the inner primary case. The primary drive consist of the following components:
OEM inner case w/SKF double row sealed bearing
Twin Power fixed engine sprocket 25th
RK drive chain
Evolution Industries basket
Bandit Sportsman clutch w/10 plate pack
Bandit solid adjuster shoe
Aluminum shifter tube (Durham Allen)
Shift lever (Clint Padgett)
ARP Hardware
OEM outer cover
Vulcan Eng billet inspection cover.
Solid pinion shaft (forget the brand)
For those that aren't aware, the engine behind this is the Smack-A-Hoe TC124 engine (158hp SAE). IMO this clutch setup works alright. It is very strong and can certainly handle the power but sort of sucks for launching. The dyno operators and bagger owners like it because it doesn't slip. I plan to replace it with some sort of variable pressure plate setup.
Thanks For the Info,I might have to venture down that path.......... :scoot:
SKF double row sealed bearing.
Got a part# for the bearing? You have this bearing on your other bikes?
I've been using the Screamin' Eagle Big Twin compensator for at least 2 years/40,000 miles now. It was supporting 120hp/125tq and 135hp/133q. The only issue I've had was the nut in the center backing out once. Fresh loc-tite and retorque fixed that. It otherwise hasn't made a peep.
I'm in the middle of a 124" build now and have confidence it will do just fine.
After tearing up 3 compensators I just gave up and put in a Bandit superclutch with a lockup:
(http://www.banditmachineworks.com/graphics/web%20view/4%20belts/4in6hole.jpg)
Quote from: ThumperDeuce on February 01, 2019, 07:52:58 AM
After tearing up 3 compensators I just gave up and put in a Bandit superclutch with a lockup:
(http://www.banditmachineworks.com/graphics/web%20view/4%20belts/4in6hole.jpg)
Pretty!
Not turbo, but the primary bearing may be a Jim's 8960? Other people may also supply. Looks like a solid primary drive. Do you have trouble modulating the clutch on launch or is it a bit heavy?
Just saying,
R Meyer
Quote from: Geezer_Glider on February 01, 2019, 11:10:41 AM
Not turbo, but the primary bearing may be a Jim's 8960? Other people may also supply. Looks like a solid primary drive. Do you have trouble modulating the clutch on launch or is it a bit heavy?
Just saying,
R Meyer
Jims doesn't manufacture any bearings. This is a simple off the shelf bearing. I sourced it from 123bearings.com but there are plenty of other sources. Simple search by OD, ID and width will show several manufactures and many different grades.
Think jims is what I am using now on same inner primary, have to check empty box later. Should have clutch off this weekend so will see if has numbers that can be crossed referenced to SKF. Think I have another want to say all balls that failed that I can check dimensions on.
was wondering your experience since all are not the same quality.
Quote from: ecir50 on January 31, 2019, 08:07:55 PM
SKF double row sealed bearing.
Got a part# for the bearing? You have this bearing on your other bikes?
I have this bearing in all three of my FXR's.
For the part number, you have options. The outer is 52mm, width 20.6mm and inner is 20mm. A search by dimensions will yield 3205 and 5205. The difference between the two is the angular contact angle. 3205 is 32 degrees, 5205 is 25 degrees. Each has their pros and cons. If you do this and search by size you will see SKF and several other quality brands. The SKF brand is typically lower cost than other premium brands. I have no preference to any of the premium brands. An off the shelf 25mm ID bearing will have to be slightly honed to 25.25mm. I prefer to hone the bearing with the shaft present.
nice have to check this out, a good reliable bearing in this spot would be a plus, looks like I need to start honing mine :up:.
Quote3205 is 32 degrees
pretty sure I saw a 10 degrees or similar there earlier and using Pythagoras couldn't get anything other than 30+ degrees, but I see the post has been edited, OK
(https://i.imgur.com/hpej7Xq.png)
Quote from: FSG on February 02, 2019, 11:46:00 PM
Quote3205 is 32 degrees
pretty sure I saw a 10 degrees or similar there earlier and using Pythagoras couldn't get anything other than 30+ degrees, but I see the post has been edited, OK
(https://i.imgur.com/hpej7Xq.png)
Yea, I messed up the first one. Shouldn't drink and post at the same time.
have a KML 5205 in mine which looks to be a cheaper bearing than SKF going off of price.
Why is there any question about going with a solid front sprocket, when you run a belt, it is solid and never heard problems with those.
I was told that the belt will absorb some of the shock from the power pulses. I don't know if it is true. I've got a Hobanized S&S wheel set so I don't really worry about it.
Quote from: ThumperDeuce on February 20, 2019, 07:22:21 PM
I was told that the belt will absorb some of the shock from the power pulses. I don't know if it is true. I've got a Hobanized S&S wheel set so I don't really worry about it.
Given a few aircraft auto conversions set up with a belt reduction drive will snap a crank within predicted hours of operation, I'd say the belt absorbing the shock is an urban legend myth. They are very rigid on engagement allowing crank harmonics to eventually crack the crank. I doubt there would be much chance of this happening with the HD engine however.
Ron
Harmonics can be a weird deal. You can take an engine design with millions of hours of run time and slap it in some other applications and it will fail time after time. I dont remember the specifics any more but forty years ago Catapiller had an engine that was working well in many applications so they stuck it in some large mining equipment and it was a big turd until they sorted it out.
I had solid BDL sprocket on my early twinkie 124". Baker OD6 after primary. Then i sold that engine and have to make gear-ratio shorter. I bought Baker 24 teeth compensator. Now i have 106 lil' strokie and plans to let primary be unchanged. Only clutch replaced to Baker 9 plate version.
I like that Baker compensator. It's quiet and realiable. Maybe smoother shifting than that solid sprocket. Or am i imaging it? :scratch:
We have been involved in a lot of these scenario's and 1 common denominator can be the run-out on the sprocketshaft. Late model (fine spline) sprocketshafts can have a number of issues and if there is a fair amount of run-out it can wreak havoc on OEM & SE compensators. We made a video to help explain some of the potential issues and how we measure to give you best accuracy of what is truly going on in your primary.
Not sure exactly how to link up, but it would be at our www.darkhorsecrankworks.com under "the cutting edge"
QuoteNot sure exactly how to link up, but it would be at our www.darkhorsecrankworks.com under "the cutting edge"
http://www.darkhorsecrankworks.com/videos.html#vidORhttps://youtu.be/1LUtZZAUGww
I finally finished the 124 swap and I wound up going with the eliminator sprocket from drag specialties along with their manual chain tensioner. since the bike was just shy of 60K miles I replaced the chain too for a little added insurance. I do notice the bike starts much better and there are zero hot start issues. I need to get some break in mileage on the motor still so time will tell
2008 FLHX: Drag Specialties 34T comp eliminator, Hayden chain Tensioner, HD 8967A drive gear bearing,
DS 80w90 in the gearbox, DS primary lube. This is the smoothest/most quiet factory 6-speed bike I've ever ridden.
Quote from: CCCycles on September 13, 2019, 09:30:03 AM
2008 FLHX: Drag Specialties 34T comp eliminator, Hayden chain Tensioner, HD 8967A drive gear bearing,
DS 80w90 in the gearbox, DS primary lube. This is the smoothest/most quiet factory 6-speed bike I've ever ridden.
I hear a lot of mixed reviews with the Hayden tensioner, mainly it making the chain way too tight. I know my primary is god-awful noisy with a solid comp and stock tensioner. To the point where people as what is wrong with my bike when sitting at idle. Do you know if there is a newer version of the Hayden tensioner that indeed works fine? I'd love to do something about the noise and don't have the skill or means to modify my stock tensioner like some have done.