Anyone have an ideas. I put a set of 18" apes on a friends 2004 Heritage. He is a seasoned ape rider so he knows not to push the bike around by the bars but he claims these have started to slip on him.
I installed these with a piece of emery cloth wrapped around each bar where it rides in the riser clamp. It seemed to be very firm and solid when it left I thought, but the bike did leave and go to a detailer for cleaning so maybe that guy upset the set on them. The bars are knurled btw but the clamp is not.
Any other install tricks? I don't believe I can pinn them, as I have the wires run inside the bars. Thanks.
I have had good luck with the Wild 1 top clamps.
Quote from: calif phil on September 14, 2019, 08:04:29 AM
I have had good luck with the Wild 1 top clamps.
I've looked at those, and they seem a good design. I think Burley bars has one too.
I have my wires running through the bars and pinned mine, I was very gentle with the drill, and pushed the wires to the side as best I could while drilling, no issues.
Great info for sure, thanks guys!
I have seen the lower part of the riser drilled and tapped for a set screw.
Should work
Loctite 620 retaining compound :up:
Quote from: calgary56 on September 14, 2019, 02:38:59 PM
Should work
Good welders really impress me - everytime i try, it looks like a wwII battlefield!!!
When i ran apes on my softail, I would have the same thing happen, bars would start dropping back. i got some screen used on a pad for sanding sheet rock, it has some abrasive qualities to it, your able to get several wraps around the bars. It worked great
JB Weld. Yes, you're going to end up with a one piece bar & riser, but so what? Like a T-Bar? They will not slip. Just make sure they are in the right position before that JB Weld sets up...
:SM:
-JW
I used to drill and tap for cup point set screws, now I see this is available.
https://hillcountrycustomcycles.com/gorilla-grabber-handlebar-riser-top-clamp-1997-newer-harley-davidson-touring.html
Thanks a million for all the great ideas.
I'm really intrigued with the thought of the 620 loctite as well as the JB Weld. Seems really cheap and fast and may or may not be permanent. Has anyone actually used the retaining compound in any situation and has it been found to hold that strongly to forced movement but yet be removable later if desired? I know that's wanting the best of both worlds.
How about this, what if I were to use any of that type holding compound only on the top clamp itself, could I then always easily remove the bars and top clamp as an assembly when needed?
No question about using the tapped top clamp from now on though, should be ordered along with any tall apes from the get go in my opinion. Glad I found out about them.
I remove my bars and top clamp as a unit when needed. No need to think about separating those two pieces in the future. If new bars are installed, a new top clamp is cheap. If he wants to move his existing bars in the future, get the top clamp listed above. But be aware, there will be divots in the bars, and unless the bars are moved enough to keep the set points from hitting the old divots, or even close, it will probably settle back into that spot.
I honestly don't think JB Weld will hold those bars from moving, but I would be interested to hear from someone that has tried it.
I have found a strip of emery cloth folded back on itself and laid in the bottom of the riser works great
Quote from: crock on September 16, 2019, 08:12:10 AM
I have found a strip of emery cloth folded back on itself and laid in the bottom of the riser works great
It did not work for me, but then I am not gentle on my bars, hard launches, hard braking. I tried all the spacer techniques, screen, Emery cloth, dimpling the bar and cap, etc. The only solution was pinning it. I actually drill it, tap it, and use cap screws.
QuoteI remove my bars and top clamp as a unit when needed.
Now that is an idea. Whenever I have done mine it just never seems right, least for a while.
We use the super clamp that Yaffe sells..
From a Softail point of view, the main problem is that even when torqued to the specified 15 ft. lb., the 2 bolt stock riser caps just don't create enough clamping force. Over torque the bolts and you will strip the holes. My friends and I who ride Springers have all switched to Wild 1 - 4 bolt cap risers = far superior clamping force and we have never had our bars move.
Quote from: calgary56 on September 14, 2019, 02:38:59 PM
Should work
Good welders piss me off LOL. I do both tig & mig (I own a Miller tig & mig) but I always end up grinding/sanding etc.
My welds stay together but they don't look like my cousins that always look like a roll of dimes LOL.
~John
I think if it were me, I'd drill/tap the top clamp on each side for a couple #8-32 button head screws. That might not even look so terrible, and worse comes to worse, a replacement top clamp is cheap.
Since the bar/clamp interface is so tight, JB Weld would maybe get all squeezed out and not enough left to grab onto the metal. Other than that, it's pretty powerful stuff.
-JW
I have used very coarse valve grinding paste in the clamps and it worked for me.
Quote from: Boe Cole on September 14, 2019, 04:36:30 PM
Quote from: calgary56 on September 14, 2019, 02:38:59 PM
Should work
Good welders really impress me - everytime i try, it looks like a wwII battlefield!!!
Me to I like the looks of stacked dimes ...every time i weld mine looks like grapes held by bubble gum....but they hold so I grind a little