S&S motor question

[hotbagger1]

 I was on the fence about getting a new bike but I have two car payments and maybe another one in a couple of years. So I'm probably going to end up with a new motor rather than a new bike. My bike is a 2000 Electra Glide and I already have a 6-speed transmission so it only makes sense to put a motor in it and save the money and not buy a new bike. My question is I've heard a lot of bad stories lately about the S&S twin cams that they're kind of having a lot of problems what's them have you guys heard any of this if so who else would you recommend for a crate motor? I know obviously a lot of companies me crate motors but I'm looking for a good reliable one that's around the 7 to $7,500 price range I looked on zippers website cuz that was going to be my first choice but they don't seem to have crate motors anymore. I was going back and forth between our and our Cycles in New Hampshire or that's in Des any input would be helpful thanks.

[rigidthumper]

I would renew your engine- it's cheaper, and you keep the original engine numbers, so there's no potential issues with road side inspections. Cases are fine,  decide on how big the displacement is going to be, upgrade items to match.  Replace the wear items on the chassis, and ride for another 20

[hotbagger1]

I would renew your engine- it's cheaper, and you keep the original engine numbers, so there's no potential issues with road side inspections. Cases are fine,  decide on how big the displacement is going to be, upgrade items to match.  Replace the wear items on the chassis, and ride for another 20

I thought about doing that but I have a friend who said he'd give me $2,500 for the motor that's in my bike now. So there's 2500 bucks less that I'm going to have to pay for a new motor. Other than that that's what I was planning on doing.

[calif phil]

How many miles are on the chassis? Is it Carbed?   I would say buy a used 2009 and up, get the better frame, suspension, radio, electronics and much more for the price of a motor.  Used bikes are cheap now. 

[Hossamania]

If your motor is still good, why buy a new one?
If you want an updated chassis, why consider a new motor?
I'm a bit confused with what you're trying to accomplish.

[hotbagger1]

If your motor is still good, why buy a new one?
If you want an updated chassis, why consider a new motor?
I'm a bit confused with what you're trying to accomplish.

How many miles are on the chassis? Is it Carbed?   I would say buy a used 2009 and up, get the better frame, suspension, radio, electronics and much more for the price of a motor.  Used bikes are cheap now.

its carbed but the big thing is last time the motor was a part about 8,000 miles ago it only had half a thousand crank run out, I've seen brand new twin cams in the past with 13,000 crank run-out. My friend had a 16 Road King and his crank run-out was so bad he couldn't put Gear Drive cams in his bike. That's why I wanted to stay away from another twin cam, I'd rather just keep my bike can go with another twin cam. More power. At least 120-130 hp&tq

[capn]

S&S motors are not set up to use a cam sensor so it may not run right.I believe 2000 twin cams use cam sensors.

[Hossamania]

If you're looking for that kind of power, don't forget to budget for the other upgrades, clutch, exhaust, bigger carb. Being an '00, check the swingarm for cracks, either upgrade to '02 or newer which will require some minor tranny and wheel mods, or at least weld some gussets on yours.
I would look at building yours, as opposed to buying a crate motor, for the reasons that rigidthumper mentioned.

[flht1550]

If you run an aftermarket ignition like a DTT it will eliminate the need of the oem crank sensor

[Hybredhog]

    IMHO, you've got to many +++'s to justify a new motor or bike (early crank, carb, GD I'm assuming, ect...). The crank's doing good, and its costing you nothing to drive it until it pukes (probably a long time), then go with a good crank & do a 107 thing. Everybody always wants MORE, but look at the reality side of it, a new motor or bike still rolls at 90mph all day, and will do most everything equally.

[HogMike]

If your motor is still good, why buy a new one?
If you want an updated chassis, why consider a new motor?
I'm a bit confused with what you're trying to accomplish.

How many miles are on the chassis? Is it Carbed?   I would say buy a used 2009 and up, get the better frame, suspension, radio, electronics and much more for the price of a motor.  Used bikes are cheap now.

its carbed but the big thing is last time the motor was a part about 8,000 miles ago it only had half a thousand crank run out, I've seen brand new twin cams in the past with 13,000 crank run-out. My friend had a 16 Road King and his crank run-out was so bad he couldn't put Gear Drive cams in his bike. That's why I wanted to stay away from another twin cam, I'd rather just keep my bike can go with another twin cam. More power. At least 120-130 hp&tq

I wanted "more power" on my 1995 evo
I built up the stock motor to 93", then had to get the 6 speed, etc.
Ended up with a S&S crate motor
Should have gone there first!
This bike is a blast to ride and took some long multi-state trips 2 up.
Retired that bike and have a new one for long rides.
Keep the evo for day rides now.
Nothing wrong with the S&S for long trips, very nice power!
JMHO

[Don D]

Yours properly built will get you a better result.

[Scotty]

S&S motors are not set up to use a cam sensor so it may not run right.I believe 2000 twin cams use cam sensors.

So what?

buy a 2001 - 2 - 3 stock ignition of Ebay for $100 and you don't need a cam position sensor as long as they end in A or B they don't require a CPS

OR

any after market ignition like a DTT will do the same.

[rhuff]

Sounds like you just want more power but the engine is good? 

I'd save the money and do your top end to 98".  110/110 is doable.  If your crank needs work, then that changes everything.  Build a 124 from your cases.  It's not cheap though after all the extras are done.  IMO, that type of power in the older frames is wasted unless you ride in a straight line as well.  Those frames just don't handle it well IMO.  YMMV though. 

Personally, I'd sell the bike for an easy $4K and buy a used 2009 and up.  You'd be ahead.  But, you wouldn't have the power you're looking for I guess. 

[BVHOG]

Personally I have seen enough of the S&S crate engines in the shop with issues that I wouldn't recommend them to anyone at this point.  Weak points in my opinion first off the the ridiculous gear drive/oil pump setup. Secondly the slipper skirt pistons with tiny super low tension oil rings in a large bore motor seems ridiculous to me. The tiny breather area only the thickness of the gasket in another thing I really don't care for.   Yes, these things can be remedied on the S&S motor but why not just build off what  you have and remedy it as you go.   You want a crate motor? Have a reputable shop build you a decent reliable motor on your cases and have them send it back to you in a crate.

[smoserx1]

So what?

buy a 2001 - 2 - 3 stock ignition of Ebay for $100 and you don't need a cam position sensor as long as they end in A or B they don't require a CPS

OR

any after market ignition like a DTT will do the same.

I can verify this is 100% accurate.  I had to replace my original ECM in my 99 FLHT, the replacement PN has an A after and the cam sensor is unhooked.  Does not need it.  I also managed to get 178000 miles out of the engine before I did anything to it other than babysit the cam department.  Your bike has the "good" crank with the timken left bearing.  At the mileage mentioned above I did the top end with 95 inch jugs, cylinders and low mileage used heads from ebay.  Cost me about $800 supplying my own labor (and it is not a hard job).  I had already fixed the cams with a set of Andrews 21N conversion cams and related stuff, all for about $700 back in 2010 (not too hard either, most of the special tools are not necessary since the cams no longer need pressing into the plate).  Unless there is something really wrong with your motor I would keep what you have.

[Deye76]

Personally I have seen enough of the S&S crate engines in the shop with issues that I wouldn't recommend them to anyone at this point.  Weak points in my opinion first off the the ridiculous gear drive/oil pump setup. Secondly the slipper skirt pistons with tiny super low tension oil rings in a large bore motor seems ridiculous to me. The tiny breather area only the thickness of the gasket in another thing I really don't care for.   Yes, these things can be remedied on the S&S motor but why not just build off what  you have and remedy it as you go.   You want a crate motor? Have a reputable shop build you a decent reliable motor on your cases and have them send it back to you in a crate.

Are the slipper skirt pistons used on S&S Evo motors also?

[Die Hard]

Purchased an S&S 124 11,000 miles ago for my 2015 Street Glide and could not be happier. Under $6,000 sitting at my door and a two year unlimited warranty. I mostly do 2000+ mile trips and have found this motor to have good street manners in normal riding and less heat radiation than the 103 I took out, but when you want to go, it is there.

[hattitude]

Purchased an S&S 124 11,000 miles ago for my 2015 Street Glide and could not be happier. Under $6,000 sitting at my door and a two year unlimited warranty. I mostly do 2000+ mile trips and have found this motor to have good street manners in normal riding and less heat radiation than the 103 I took out, but when you want to go, it is there.

Glad to hear this...... I have an appointment to have a 124" installed in my '16 Ultra next month. Some of these comments weren't inspiring much confidence in my choice....

[1workinman]

Personally I have seen enough of the S&S crate engines in the shop with issues that I wouldn't recommend them to anyone at this point.  Weak points in my opinion first off the the ridiculous gear drive/oil pump setup. Secondly the slipper skirt pistons with tiny super low tension oil rings in a large bore motor seems ridiculous to me. The tiny breather area only the thickness of the gasket in another thing I really don't care for.   Yes, these things can be remedied on the S&S motor but why not just build off what  you have and remedy it as you go.   You want a crate motor? Have a reputable shop build you a decent reliable motor on your cases and have them send it back to you in a crate.

Well I been down this road , I like SS products as far as there crank shafts 3 stage oil pump and the blue cam plate the Timken bearings . But I fond of diamond or CP pistons with coated skits . Never again on a crate motor I prefer a built motor with the parts I posted and gear drive cams  I know this is not for every one but my motors now don't use very much oil , have little  blow by , make decent power . As far as head I want them to be worked by a person who knows how to product results

[jmorton10]

Purchased an S&S 124 11,000 miles ago for my 2015 Street Glide and could not be happier.

Same here.

My S&S 124 is one of the best running motors I've ever had.  It uses so little oil I don't even bother to check it anymore.

I beat the crap out of mine & use an NOS nitrous setup on it.  Street manners are awesome, it starts instantly & gets super gas mileage when I don't beat on it.

One of the reasons I bought the S&S motor is a local shop owner stuck one in his bike & now has 79,000 trouble free miles on it.

~John

[1workinman]

Purchased an S&S 124 11,000 miles ago for my 2015 Street Glide and could not be happier.

Same here.

My S&S 124 is one of the best running motors I've ever had.  It uses so little oil I don't even bother to check it anymore.

I beat the crap out of mine & use an NOS nitrous setup on it.  Street manners are awesome, it starts instantly & gets super gas mileage when I don't beat on it.

One of the reasons I bought the S&S motor is a local shop owner stuck one in his bike & now has 79,000 trouble free miles on it.

~John

is your motor a stock HC 124 John or does it have some work done to it like head work and more compression. A good while back I saw a post where a stock LC 124 that had some compression and Rick Ward head work made in the low 140s pretty good for a lc motor lol

[jmorton10]

I had headwork done to it but other than that it's all stock.

It runs GREAT (I wore out a brand new Avon tire in 1200 miles last summer without really meaning to HaHaHa)

~John

[1workinman]

I had headwork done to it but other than that it's all stock.

It runs GREAT (I wore out a brand new Avon tire in 1200 miles last summer without really meaning to HaHaHa)

~John

Yea head work will bring It around especially with a tad bit more compression lol 

[Rob L]

I went through the same dilemma this past winter. Buy a new bike or repower mine and save money in the long run. I bought an S&S LC 124 crate motor and I couldn't be happier. I have about 4k hard miles on it so far without any problems. I will recommend that no matter what you decide to do, whether you build your current motor or buy a crate motor you need to plan and budget for all the other upgrades required to handle the extra power. Good luck with your decision