HarleyTechTalk

Only mod I know is to remove, or relocate cross member of bottom frame or modify or buy a new oil pan.

Does anyone remember the thread regarding FXR frame mods to fit a -04 FLT drive train?
I can't find it with the search engine.

Here is my dyno when i had BC gerolomy heads and TW8g, and propipe, with the same 53mm throttle body ,
so now have tw9BG cam, zippers heads , and boarzilla

 
   

Quote from: Bagger on Yesterday at 04:32:57 PMWhat was the engine build of the 117"?

The info is from No Cents

4.375" stroke x 4.125" bore
Fueling Reaper 594 cams
wfolarry CVO 110" heads
Compression 11.3:1
SE 58mm T/B with 5.3 injectors
D&D Boarzilla exhaust

I put the motor in my bike and bought a Boarzilla so everything matched. He let me have the TTS MAP as we both had 2008 touring bikes.

Quote from: Ohio HD on April 12, 2024, 02:35:27 PMBelow is the dyno sheet for the 117" that No Cents built, making 136 horsepower and 127 torque. That motor ran great, I know because I put about 40k miles on it.

What was the engine build of the 117"?

problem solved. I had the phone set to go directly to speaker. I changed it back to normal and it worked.

Quote from: kd on April 14, 2024, 09:28:34 PMI am sure you have heard it said here that the hydraulic lifter is the best known oil filter there is.  Considering the type of engine failure that sent you down this path, I would think it's very possible that you have a contaminated lifter body.  You had a lot of metal fines go through your oil galleries, lines and tank.  It's almost impossible to clear that from the system 100%. Especially the oil tank baffles. Most that know this replace the tank rather than trying the impossible - cleaning it well enough.

Not actually hearing the "knock" but going by your description I would be inclined to pull the lifters, disassemble them on a clean white towel, surgically clean them, prime them in a jar with vacuum and retest them.  DO NOT use an oil squirt can to prime them.  There's a better chance than not that you will reintroduce even 1 tiny spec of dirt that will cause a contamination failure.

That's kinda what I was thinking too. Definitely could have been a spec of debris introduced at some point of the process.

I am sure you have heard it said here that the hydraulic lifter is the best known oil filter there is.  Considering the type of engine failure that sent you down this path, I would think it's very possible that you have a contaminated lifter body.  You had a lot of metal fines go through your oil galleries, lines and tank.  It's almost impossible to clear that from the system 100%. Especially the oil tank baffles. Most that know this replace the tank rather than trying the impossible - cleaning it well enough.

Not actually hearing the "knock" but going by your description I would be inclined to pull the lifters, disassemble them on a clean white towel, surgically clean them, prime them in a jar with vacuum and retest them.  DO NOT use an oil squirt can to prime them.  There's a better chance than not that you will reintroduce even 1 tiny spec of dirt that will cause a contamination failure.

Quote from: SixShooter14 on April 14, 2024, 01:58:46 PMslowly getting there... Got the new oil line back on and no more leaks.

Trouble now is I get a small knock just off idle... It sounds fine when idling slow or with just the starter spinning. But the minute I add a touch of throttle it starts knocking (I believe from the front).... I checked the pushrod adjustment a couple times now and they are adjusted properly.

I did look at the pushrods and lifters when I had the engine out and didn't notice any damage, but I didn't try pressing on the lifter pistons to see how they bleed down. But while adjusting, they seemed to bleed down fine after 10-15 minutes. Could it be one is not holding pressure or needs fully cleaned?

Other thought is maybe the compensator is loose, bad, or not installed correctly?

ETA: Maybe the comp. nut is bottoming out due to the new alternator rotor (maybe it's a touch thinner than previous?

hmm... Pulled the inspection cover and compensator doesn't budge in either direction. No movement at all and chain has right around 3/4" give in it.

Thinking maybe at least 1 lifter is either no-bueno or lost it's prime when I jacked around with the oil leak. It took a couple tries to get the oil to maintain it's prime overnight with the leak I mentioned earlier. A couple times as I was turning the engine over with the starter, I know the gauge was showing 0 and tappet screen was empty (tells me the lifters weren't getting oil) So they absolutely may have pumped out and not been able to refill.


Anyone have advice on making sure the lifters are primed now that everything is together?

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883/1200 100hp/88ft lbs using HQ cams and their porting on Buell heads with 44CV.
Got 92hp with HQ ported 883 heads & 40CV. When I asked Doug Coffee about using 883 heads, he said it was easier to remove material than add.
This bike was a LOT of fun...