Hey guys,
I ended up buying a very well looked after '05 RKC at a very good price with 40,000 miles (65,000kms) and basically stock aside from stage 1 a/c V&H true dual pipes and a "HD stage 1 download"... Previous owner had even just recently replaced both cam chain tensioners (he stuck with the OEM set up).
I was thinking
Better flowing a/c
S&S 2-1 sidewinder exhaust
96" build with +.040" KB pistons or 98" 3.937" with CP pistons around 10-1 - 10.5 compression depending on what's needed.
Set of completely stock heads from a 96" or 103" motor (low mile take off heads from someone who has upgraded) with MCRs installed
Woods Conversion kit (Cams, inner bearings, cam plate, oil pump, hyd tensioners etc)
TW-6-6R cams or TW555-R cams
How risky is it to skip the conversion and keep the new OEM spring loaded tensioners in with the OEM cam plate and just change them out very 10,000kms or 2 years or so? Obviously would upgrade the inner cam bearings. Are the factory replacement tensioners made of slightly better material now compared to the early days?
How risky is it to do a nice 96" / 98" build on a 2005 stock bottom end? getting the crank trued and welded/plugged is super expensive here (downunder) and will have to ship it interstate 4000 miles to get it done which will be big $$ in shipping alone.
Thanks
Adam,
I can say my 06 FXSTSI that I bought new is still running great with 65k miles.Back in 09 with 20k,I had Randy at Hyperformance bore my original cylinders to 98" and fitted them with CP GMR 98-10 pistons.(10cc domes-11.0/1)
I've changed cams,heads, and so on a couple of times but the stock bottom end is still holding up fine with 123/118.I still have the 06 cam chain tensioners that have been changed a couple times.
Me personally, I don't see any need to upgrade to the new style tensioners and have to run conversion cams.I'm sure others feel differently about that.
I ride the bike pretty hard every time it gets ridden,still uses no oil and continues to run flawlessly
I hope you have as good of luck with whatever built you decide on
Coff 06
If you stick with the OEM spring loaded tensioners just check them every 15,000 Miles and you will be fine,the 555, s are a good choice
Quote from: Coff 06 on September 24, 2022, 08:06:42 AMAdam,
I can say my 06 FXSTSI that I bought new is still running great with 65k miles.Back in 09 with 20k,I had Randy at Hyperformance bore my original cylinders to 98" and fitted them with CP GMR 98-10 pistons.(10cc domes-11.0/1)
I've changed cams,heads, and so on a couple of times but the stock bottom end is still holding up fine with 123/118.I still have the 06 cam chain tensioners that have been changed a couple times.
Me personally, I don't see any need to upgrade to the new style tensioners and have to run conversion cams.I'm sure others feel differently about that.
I ride the bike pretty hard every time it gets ridden,still uses no oil and continues to run flawlessly
I hope you have as good of luck with whatever built you decide on
Coff 06
Thanks Coff, that's good to know. :up:
If I use the pistons you did, and push static compression up to 10.75... what cams would I be best using, or is that pointless without proper headwork?
I have some 2007 take off heads that I can use, or I can pay $500 and grab a set of ported and polished heads that are up for sale, but no specs on who did the work, so they could be good or they could be not so good.
Cheers.
Quote from: RTMike on September 24, 2022, 12:57:24 PMIf you stick with the OEM spring loaded tensioners just check them every 15,000 Miles and you will be fine,the 555, s are a good choice
Thanks Mike, if I stick with the OEM tensioners, it really opens up my cam choices. What others would you suggest beside the woods 555.
Thanks.
I ran the SE 251s (.579) lift with 85cc heads and it was still a little lazy low end.Even with a +4* cam gear.
When I had my next heads done I had them cut to 83cc.At that same time I went to the Woods 9B (.630)and left the +4* cam gear in.
I also went from a 2-2 to a 2-1 exhaust.
Now the bike rides like it's a little angry.
It's always right there.
Mine is a light bike and built to RUN,so my cam choices may not be for everyone.
If I did nothing else to a set of heads I would have them cut to 83/84cc depending on the cams of choice Coff 06
Quote from: Coff 06 on September 24, 2022, 10:48:57 PMIf I did nothing else to a set of heads I would have them cut to 83/84cc depending on the cams of choice Coff 06
Yes, agreed. I did this with my last build. I have the option of getting heads CNC ported with new valves and springs for an extra AU$1600 but I'm not sure it's worth it for a build like this?? I could be wrong, I've never had headwork done.
I think I'm going with some CP BHM-98-3 pistons should get me 98" at 10.2 / 10.3 comp with 83cc heads.
Woods TW-6
New oil pump
Thanks.
QuoteHow risky is it to skip the conversion and keep the new OEM spring loaded tensioners in with the OEM cam plate and just change them out very 10,000kms or 2 years or so? Obviously would upgrade the inner cam bearings. Are the factory replacement tensioners made of slightly better material now compared to the early days?
Here is the issue I have. When the stock tensioners get some age and miles on them many of them will break off from the pin and now you suddenly have metal to metal contact. See the pic I am attaching, this set came out of my bike and you can see the stress crack beginning to form on the shoe on the left side of the pic next to the green arrow. If you are concerned about cam selection you could go with the screaming eagle hybrid plate that uses the hydraulic tensioners and it will use any of the old type cams. Once installed later on down the road if the shoes need replacing it is a piece of cake compared to the stock ones, but if you are hell bent on using the old style at least install Twin Power ones. They are supposedly made with Cyco pads that are less brittle. Notice I said "supposedly."
Quote from: smoserx1 on September 25, 2022, 04:20:11 AMQuoteHow risky is it to skip the conversion and keep the new OEM spring loaded tensioners in with the OEM cam plate and just change them out very 10,000kms or 2 years or so? Obviously would upgrade the inner cam bearings. Are the factory replacement tensioners made of slightly better material now compared to the early days?
Here is the issue I have. When the stock tensioners get some age and miles on them many of them will break off from the pin and now you suddenly have metal to metal contact.
Would this happen to brand new tensioners, changed out every 10,000kms (6,500 miles) or every 2 years whichever came first?
I'm not opposed to the hybrid camplate. I just didn't think it was necessary for my situation.
Thanks.
I think your service schedule on those tensioners is probably closer to
20/25k and still be safe.Again,JMHO. Coff 06
smooth the links that run on the pads helps life
QuoteWould this happen to brand new tensioners, changed out every 10,000kms (6,500 miles) or every 2 years whichever came first?
I'm not opposed to the hybrid camplate. I just didn't think it was necessary for my situation.
No, and as stated you can probably extend those intervals to 20K miles or so, but you are looking at serious work for something that now becomes a routine maintenance item. I don't understand the logic though and that is why I run K&N air filters, iridium spark plugs and conversion cams. The more things I can make as close to maintenance free (long lasting) the better I like it. But hey, if you get a kick out of wrenching go for it. OTOH if you are paying someone to do this it won't take but two or three changes and you would have bought an upgrade. Best of luck whatever you decide.
If he states he only rides the bike 6-7K every couple of years.It will be 6-7 years before he needs to check the tensioners. I don't see that being a pressing issue.He's going to get lots of time (years) out of his money spent before maintenance is needed. Coff 06
Quote from: Adam76 on September 24, 2022, 04:58:01 AMHey guys,
I ended up buying a very well looked after '05 RKC at a very good price with 40,000 miles (65,000kms) and basically stock aside from stage 1 a/c V&H true dual pipes and a "HD stage 1 download"... Previous owner had even just recently replaced both cam chain tensioners (he stuck with the OEM set up).
I was thinking
Better flowing a/c
S&S 2-1 sidewinder exhaust
96" build with +.040" KB pistons or 98" 3.937" with CP pistons around 10-1 - 10.5 compression depending on what's needed.
Set of completely stock heads from a 96" or 103" motor (low mile take off heads from someone who has upgraded) with MCRs installed
Woods Conversion kit (Cams, inner bearings, cam plate, oil pump, hyd tensioners etc)
TW-6-6R cams or TW555-R cams
How risky is it to skip the conversion and keep the new OEM spring loaded tensioners in with the OEM cam plate and just change them out very 10,000kms or 2 years or so? Obviously would upgrade the inner cam bearings. Are the factory replacement tensioners made of slightly better material now compared to the early days?
How risky is it to do a nice 96" / 98" build on a 2005 stock bottom end? getting the crank trued and welded/plugged is super expensive here (downunder) and will have to ship it interstate 4000 miles to get it done which will be big $$ in shipping alone.
Thanks
As an owner of a 2005 Road King Classic with 73,000 miles. Replace the chain drive cams with gear drive and make sure you replace the valve seals with ones not made in China.
You will thank me later.
No one warned me an in 2006 with 10,571 miles I learned all about valve seals giving out. When it was all done it cost me $3,000 to fix everything that was ruined.
Thanks RoadKingKohn,
If runout allows I will look into gear drive cams. As for the heads and the Valve seals, I'm replacing the heads with a set of 96" "take-off" heads I've picked up from a guy who upgraded and only put 5,000 miles on these heads. Will clean them up, cc them to 83 and install with a .030" HG.
Cheers
If you want to stick to a budget, use the spring tensioners with new pads and grab a set of 95" SE cast 10.25 pistons. Don't mill the heads, and a set of TW7 Cams .
Yup, budget creep can grow quickly, I like Speedzter's plan. Gear drives add $500 to the build, plus gear drive specific cams. Don't get me wrong, I love mine, haven't touched the cam chest in 100,000 miles including lifters, and they eliminate some minor horsepower robbing parasitic drag. It all depends on runout of course.
Quote from: speedzter on September 27, 2022, 03:01:51 AMIf you want to stick to a budget, use the spring tensioners with new pads and grab a set of 95" SE cast 10.25 pistons. Don't mill the heads, and a set of TW7 Cams .
Thanks speedzter, that's not a bad idea. Woods website says these are bolt in 2000 - 6000 but With an intake closing of 46* and 248/248 duration, will these be a little soft on the bottom? I'm wanting power from 2000rpm.
Thanks
my '03 Fatty has gear drive cams and I've installed them in quite a few more bikes BUT with the Hydro Tensioners available there's IMO no need to install gear drive unless your building a monster.
On an '05 and a budget I'd use spring tensioners with cyclo pads
valve seals were a known problem on the '05's but you'll address that with the newer heads
CR's ...... fit manuals to both heads, if you have an ACR fit it to the rear and wire to the starter via an inline switch so you can turn it off
Quote from: Adam76 on September 27, 2022, 05:29:20 PMThanks speedzter, that's not a bad idea. Woods website says these are bolt in 2000 - 6000 but With an intake closing of 46* and 248/248 duration, will these be a little soft on the bottom? I'm wanting power from 2000rpm.
Thanks
The TW7 is a high lift TW6 Int Close 40 240/240 duration .575 lift .
I've used them in a 103 with stock beehives.
Nice strong torque builder .
edit- looks like he only make them as a roller conversion cam .
cheers
Quote from: speedzter on September 27, 2022, 08:47:08 PMQuote from: Adam76 on September 27, 2022, 05:29:20 PMThanks speedzter, that's not a bad idea. Woods website says these are bolt in 2000 - 6000 but With an intake closing of 46* and 248/248 duration, will these be a little soft on the bottom? I'm wanting power from 2000rpm.
Thanks
The TW7 is a high lift TW6 Int Close 40 240/240 duration .575 lift .
I've used them in a 103 with stock beehives.
Nice strong torque builder .
edit- looks like he only make them as a roller conversion cam .
cheers
The Woods website lists the W7 as a 95" cam but not the TW7H which is the one I think you are referring to.
Quote from: Adam76 on September 29, 2022, 04:51:59 PMThe Woods website lists the W7 as a 95" cam but not the TW7H which is the one I think you are referring to.
His Web site is a bit confusing, the W7 is an Evo Cam.
Yes the TW7H-R is for the early twin cam with roller chain.
Quote from: speedzter on September 30, 2022, 06:02:40 AMQuote from: Adam76 on September 29, 2022, 04:51:59 PMThe Woods website lists the W7 as a 95" cam but not the TW7H which is the one I think you are referring to.
His Web site is a bit confusing, the W7 is an Evo Cam.
Yes the TW7H-R is for the early twin cam with roller chain.
Yes, it is available as a "conversion cam TW-7H-R.... but it's also listed as a single roller link chain drive 2007 - 2017 as "TW-7H"
From Wood's website:
2006 - 2016 BOLT-IN SUPER HI TORQUE FITS 96" - 110" WITH STOCK HEADS
:pop:
Quote from: speedzter on September 27, 2022, 08:47:08 PMQuote from: Adam76 on September 27, 2022, 05:29:20 PMThanks speedzter, that's not a bad idea. Woods website says these are bolt in 2000 - 6000 but With an intake closing of 46* and 248/248 duration, will these be a little soft on the bottom? I'm wanting power from 2000rpm.
Thanks
The TW7 is a high lift TW6 Int Close 40 240/240 duration .575 lift .
I've used them in a 103 with stock beehives.
Nice strong torque builder .
edit- looks like he only make them as a roller conversion cam .
cheers
I really like the specs of the TW-7H so I might do the conversion kit.... but since I'm running stock 103" herads I'm not sure I'll gain anything from the extra lift of the 7H.... So might just stick with the TW-6 / Andrews TW-57.
Cheers
I have a 2005 with 73,000+ miles. After my valve seals (HD/China) let loose at 10,571 miles I ended up having to rebuild my engine. In the examination I looked at my cam chain tensioners. Outside one was good inside one was ready to explode. I went to cam gear drive. Just looked at the gears after 60,000+ miles. Nothing looks like it is going to explode and send metal parts into the engine.