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Oil mist from breather & Hayden Krank Vent Plus

Started by 1340evo, August 30, 2022, 02:01:03 PM

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1340evo

It's only a mist....

So it won't harm it if it went up in the first place as thats what it did originaly, But you think it won't help either.. may as well go down and to ground or a catch tank?

A lot of posts say take it up over the box first and that reduces the amount as it condences out and goes back into the system ??

Ohio HD

It still has to go up or down with the hose. As well as condensation mixed in the oil mist, it has to go somewhere.  A catch can is the way to contain it. Problem solved.

1340evo

Spent a few hours today making a catch can so lets see what I catch. Not the best engineered of things :)

On reflection I maybe should of finished the copper pipe at the gap on plat 2 to 3, that way the oil had somewhere to go out of the turbulance, so maybe a mod I can do if this does not catch it all  :wink:


kd

September 17, 2022, 02:26:07 PM #28 Last Edit: September 17, 2022, 03:11:45 PM by kd
Nice job. For your consideration, here's a couple of suggestions for perfection.  Move the plates up closer to the top at the width of the nut apart. Add a wafer of loose horse hair type of wool (or coarse stainless steel wool) between the top and 1-2 & 2-3 plates as a breather that will gather oil vapour as it exits.  That will drip into the can and be captured. The air in the exit hose will be cleaner.

Weld a nut or 3/8" block on the base and drill / thread it to 1/8" npt. Add a petcock to it that has a nipple for a short piece of clear tube. Make it so the fitting depth is flush to the bottom of the canister. Now you can drain the content easily into a clear water bottle and cap it so it doesn't spill.  Let it sit and settle and you can analyze the oil / water content ratio.
KD

1340evo

Quote from: kd on September 17, 2022, 02:26:07 PMNice job. For your consideration, here's a couple of suggestions for perfection.  Move the plates up closer to the top at the width of the nut apart. Add a wafer of loose horse hair type of wool (or coarse stainless steel wool) between the top and 1-2 & 2-3 plates as a breather that will gather oil vapour as it exits.  That will drip into the can and be captured. The air in the exit hose will be cleaner.

Weld a nut or 3/8" block on the base and drill / thread it to 1/8" npt. Add a petcock to it that has a nipple for a short piece of clear tube. Make it so the fitting depth is flush to the bottom of the canister. Now you can drain the content easily into a clear water bottle and cap it so it doesn't spill.  Let it sit and settle and you can analyze the oil / water content ratio.

Thanks KD... I didn't want to make it too restrictive by getting the plates too close.

And I get the drain idea, but you can unscrew the container to empty it, so looks a bit cleaner?

As you say, I can play to get it right.

Ive never spent time observing the air flow from the vent until tonight, and by far the most air movement in and out is at tickover. Above that its that quick you don't tend to see much.
So does most purging of the oil happen at low rev's.. Will have to see how it goes on a run tomorrow if its fine  :chop:

kd

September 17, 2022, 04:44:18 PM #30 Last Edit: September 18, 2022, 04:19:26 AM by rigidthumper
Quote from: 1340evo on September 17, 2022, 04:28:42 PM
Quote from: kd on September 17, 2022, 02:26:07 PMNice job. For your consideration, here's a couple of suggestions for perfection.  Move the plates up closer to the top at the width of the nut apart. Add a wafer of loose horse hair type of wool (or coarse stainless steel wool) between the top and 1-2 & 2-3 plates as a breather that will gather oil vapour as it exits.  That will drip into the can and be captured. The air in the exit hose will be cleaner.

Weld a nut or 3/8" block on the base and drill / thread it to 1/8" npt. Add a petcock to it that has a nipple for a short piece of clear tube. Make it so the fitting depth is flush to the bottom of the canister. Now you can drain the content easily into a clear water bottle and cap it so it doesn't spill.  Let it sit and settle and you can analyze the oil / water content ratio.

Thanks KD... I didn't want to make it too restrictive by getting the plates too close.

And I get the drain idea, but you can unscrew the container to empty it, so looks a bit cleaner?

As you say, I can play to get it right.

Ive never spent time observing the air flow from the vent until tonight, and by far the most air movement in and out is at tickover. Above that its that quick you don't tend to see much.
So does most purging of the oil happen at low rev's.. Will have to see how it goes on a run tomorrow if its fine  :chop:

What I described to you is my present aluminum catch can.  The difference is my plates are swiss cheese full surface.  It works excellent and never a drip.  This with a 120 engine pumping away.  I salvaged it from a 5.7 hemi engine and repurposed it.  It appears to be the identical volume as yours.  If you want to see what it looks like my Road Glide is in the "Show those Twin Cam" thread on the second page back.

https://harleytechtalk.com/htt/index.php/topic,7196.203.html
KD

1340evo

Hi, neat, I can just see it under the filter.

I did think about the swiss chease idea but then thought making it change dirrection may work better?

I have some of that course wire wool stuff(or my Wife has for doing the dishes) but its a bit big to push in there and din't want to cut it down and get lose strands... Will take a closer look at it.

So as abo0ve, it appears most movement is a tickover and not high RPM as you might expect. I guess at heigher RPM you are either getting negative pressure in there or its compressing the air somewhat?

kd

Quote from: 1340evo on September 18, 2022, 01:12:51 AMHi, neat, I can just see it under the filter.

I did think about the swiss chease idea but then thought making it change dirrection may work better?

I have some of that course wire wool stuff(or my Wife has for doing the dishes) but its a bit big to push in there and din't want to cut it down and get lose strands... Will take a closer look at it.

So as abo0ve, it appears most movement is a tickover and not high RPM as you might expect. I guess at heigher RPM you are either getting negative pressure in there or its compressing the air somewhat?

Your description of it only belching at tickover when starting makes me think it is residual resting in the system.  Once that gets cleared it goes back to making more but that is mist and not condensed from sitting.  I expect it is happening at all rpm but when hot and moving quicker it will exit as more of a vapor
KD

1340evo

No, Sorry, Nothing coming out except air

What I mean is there is air movement in and out at low RPM / tickover area, Once you go above this, the air flow is minimal. I just tried it putting my finger over the tube and reved the bike. It suprised me as I would of thought higher the RPM the more it would pump? But as I say, air from the breather does not confirm this??

1340evo

Okay, so a 75 mile run and this is what I collected. I put it in a wine bottle screw cap BTW so you can judge the amount. 95% water so not what I expected.

The collector did introduce more vibration and took away some HP so its restricting the engine by not letting it breath as much, and guess it may put more out if flow was improved.

On a bottom breather with lets say 15" of pipe, can you just put it to ground as it does suck as well as blow?

Coming around to JW113's thinking if it can be done without issue.....

.

rigidthumper

I always used 18" of tubing, but I'm sure the EPA says we can't do that here any longer...
Ignorance is bliss, and accuracy expensive. How much of either can you afford?

kd

IIRC you are chain drive?  End the hose close to and above the transmission sprocket,  If it sheds a drip, your chain and sprockets will thank you but not your passenger if you don't have a chain guard.  With a chain guard you're golden.
KD

1340evo

yes, its chain so I could do that, but it's mostly water so do you want to?

1340evo

so I've changed sides for now, about 15" tube, end cut at 45 deg so it wont venturi, and a filter over the top. At least its on the oily side of the bike now where the chain is. Its quite a way our so will see if it gets on the rear tyre or not over time. Just on a clip I made so easy to remove / clean as required.

I'm going to investigate duckbill valves also see if they work ;)

.