Hello all, looking at buying a RKC.
Because it's a 2008 96" - should I have the crank runout checked before purchasing? How much of an issue is runout in this year model?
Or should I just deal with whatever runout is there once I have it and start the upgrades? I plan on doing cams, compression, mild headwork and boring to 103".
Thanks in advance! :up:
I consider all 2008 touring bikes to be the redheaded stepchild of modern harleys, last one before was the 79 sportster. 08 last yr of old frame, too tall gearing that can't be changed because of cush-drive, etc. Unless a super low deal, I'd walk.
Thanks for the advice. I never considered those other factors. I would ultimately prefer an earlier TC and there is a 2003 anniversary model that I'm also considering.
Cheers
Gearing is easily changed on a 2008. You use HD # 40518-08 68 tooth Sportster rear pully. Stock belt fits fine.
My 2008 had 0.0025" crank runout before and after the 107" top end. I destroyed the large rod end rollers and flywheel thrust washers by running the daylights out of it, until it started knocking. Runout was still 0.0025".
The crank and rods are not strong enough if the motor will be run hard in my opinion.
If it's just going to be a cruiser motor, you're probably fine.
Quote from: Ohio HD on October 20, 2020, 07:23:20 PM
The crank and rods are not strong enough if the motor will be run hard in my opinion.
So you think I'm better off with an earlier TC88 ?
No, I mean any OEM HD crank. They aren't designed to have the power increased by 50%.
You are better buying what you want! Saying that I would avoid the '08, but I would go newer, not older, but that is just me. '09+ touring has a better frame, better cam chain tensioners, easy to go to a 103" if it is not already.
Some guys would say to go with the 2003. Last year of the good crank, first year of the better swing arm, but has the old style cam chain tensioners which are :turd: .
2008 has the exact same cam system as the 2009. No difference. :scoot:
Quote from: Ohio HD on October 20, 2020, 07:59:23 PM
2008 has the exact same cam system as the 2009. No difference. :scoot:
Yeah, I probably should have clarified, better tensioners over the 2003 he was talking about.
I don't believe the sportster pulley will work on a 08 due to the cush drive. Or can you eliminate the cush drive ?
On an 08 the cush drive was a bolt on deal, so you can use the XL pulley
"2003. Last year of the good crank,"
2002 in most peoples opinion, last year for the left side Timken. 2003 same as 2004-2007.
I have seen a lot of bad compensater and voltage regulators in 08...jimmy
Quote from: Deye76 on October 21, 2020, 07:56:43 AM
"2003. Last year of the good crank,"
2002 in most peoples opinion, last year for the left side Timken. 2003 same as 2004-2007.
Oops, sorry. Got the years mixed up.
My 2008 I have done 110 with fuel moto cyl set of WFO Larry's heads 9996a cams and had darkhorse do the crank years ago with stock wheels h beam rods, it runs just fine. And also did 30-68 pulley conversion trike front sportster rear, the rear was Cush drive I just changed the bearing in it. Sure the 08 is the older frame just have to set them up the way you want 👍
Quote from: Ohio HD on October 20, 2020, 07:46:43 PM
No, I mean any OEM HD crank. They aren't designed to have the power increased by 50%.
Ok, thanks. Now I get your drift. It looks like a definite potential failure point if the crank and rods aren't addressed in a performance build, but it seems to me that from everything I have seen and read about, more people don't address the bottom end than those that do? Are they just taking a big gamble?
Quote from: Deye76 on October 21, 2020, 07:56:43 AM
"2003. Last year of the good crank,"
2002 in most peoples opinion, last year for the left side Timken. 2003 same as 2004-2007.
Thanks deye76, for some reason I also had in my mind that the 2003 still had a better crank than the '04-07..... Thanks for clearing that up. 👍
Quote from: Adam76 on October 22, 2020, 07:22:29 AM
Quote from: Deye76 on October 21, 2020, 07:56:43 AM
"2003. Last year of the good crank,"
2002 in most peoples opinion, last year for the left side Timken. 2003 same as 2004-2007.
Thanks deye76, for some reason I also had in my mind that the 2003 still had a better crank than the '04-07..... Thanks for clearing that up. 👍
Luckily your evo has none of those issues.
Positives for '08
Old frame is lighter, it's basically free hp and I feel like they ride better
Rear tires are cheaper than 09 up
Electronic throttle- (50mm stock) and nice cruise control
Brembo calipers
"Are they just taking a big gamble?"
Some believe so, others don't.
Some guys skip over dollars trying to pick up pennies... :idunno:
Quote from: Adam76 on October 22, 2020, 07:20:39 AM
Are they just taking a big gamble?
I have done mild builds on three of my Harleys, no crank issues. The crank will probably hold up fine, most of them do. A stock crank can fail in a stock bike. On a mild build I wouldn't worry about the crank, confirm it is good at the time of the build and run it. Now if you are going from a 103" to a big build like a 124" I would definitely do the crank too.
Life's a gamble, you just need to study the odds.
It's all in how the bike is ridden. Most HD riders never ring their bikes out. I do, often, and take the precautions to keep the motor together.
Quote2002 in most peoples opinion, last year for the left side Timken.
2002 was also the first year for Delphi, replacing the M-M (can't spell it) fuel injection. I have an '08 and it rides great. As said before, it has the same bad gearing that started in 2007 (too tall).
Trust me, none of my motorcycles are treated with tender loving care!
I had a friend ask to buy one of my Harleys, I told him I won't sell it to a friend when I was done with it!
Quote from: Hossamania on October 22, 2020, 07:30:34 AM
Quote from: Adam76 on October 22, 2020, 07:22:29 AM
Quote from: Deye76 on October 21, 2020, 07:56:43 AM
"2003. Last year of the good crank,"
2002 in most peoples opinion, last year for the left side Timken. 2003 same as 2004-2007.
Thanks deye76, for some reason I also had in my mind that the 2003 still had a better crank than the '04-07..... Thanks for clearing that up. 👍
Luckily your evo has none of those issues.
😂 yes, absolutely.... but a fractured spine and nerve root compression has dictated that I need to ride something with much better suspension and comfort.... Hence the purchase of a RK. I guess I could always look for an evo RK 😁
Quote from: PoorUB on October 22, 2020, 10:20:11 AM
Quote from: Adam76 on October 22, 2020, 07:20:39 AM
Are they just taking a big gamble?
....On a mild build I wouldn't worry about the crank, confirm it is good at the time of the build and run it....
......Life's a gamble, you just need to study the odds....
Yeah, this is true. However starting my build only to find out that it needs bottom end work would be a deal breaker for me here downunder... The cost of a new crank or flywheel work etc is huge and there are very few people / shops with the skills or experience who specialise in this sort of stuff. Very different to you guys on the States, you have so many guys with skills and knowledge that just doesn't exist over here. Just trying to reduce the odds of you know what I mean.
Cheers
Quote from: Adam76 on October 22, 2020, 03:56:34 PM
Yeah, this is true. However starting my build only to find out that it needs bottom end work would be a deal breaker for me here downunder... The cost of a new crank or flywheel work etc is huge and there are very few people / shops with the skills or experience who specialise in this sort of stuff. Very different to you guys on the States, you have so many guys with skills and knowledge that just doesn't exist over here. Just trying to reduce the odds of you know what I mean.
Cheers
So.....no build until you can afford a crankshaft? You won't know if the crank is good until the cylinders are off, pretty much committed at that point. Checking run out does not insure the crank is good, it can still have bad rod bearings.
Really the best thing to do is buy a stock bike and leave it that way. There are hundreds of thousands of nearly stock Harleys that run many miles that are oblivious to the condition of the crankshaft that never have an issue.
IMO, the crankshaft deal is over blown.
It needs to be looked over and considered during a build and consider how you ride and how much HP you plan on twisting out of it, but there are 100 times more Harleys out there with the stock crank that is working just fine than ones with rebuilt or S&S cranks.
Quote from: PoorUB on October 22, 2020, 04:08:35 PM
Quote from: Adam76 on October 22, 2020, 03:56:34 PM
Yeah, this is true. However starting my build only to find out that it needs bottom end work would be a deal breaker for me here downunder... The cost of a new crank or flywheel work etc is huge and there are very few people / shops with the skills or experience who specialise in this sort of stuff. Very different to you guys on the States, you have so many guys with skills and knowledge that just doesn't exist over here. Just trying to reduce the odds of you know what I mean.
Cheers
So.....no build until you can afford a crankshaft? You won't know if the crank is good until the cylinders are off, pretty much committed at that point. Checking run out does not insure the crank is good, it can still have bad rod bearings.
Really the best thing to do is buy a stock bike and leave it that way.
Buy a stock 88" or 96" bike and leave it stock?
Great in theory, but there's no way I could do it 😂
Quote from: Adam76 on October 22, 2020, 04:24:04 PM
Quote from: PoorUB on October 22, 2020, 04:08:35 PM
Quote from: Adam76 on October 22, 2020, 03:56:34 PM
Yeah, this is true. However starting my build only to find out that it needs bottom end work would be a deal breaker for me here downunder... The cost of a new crank or flywheel work etc is huge and there are very few people / shops with the skills or experience who specialise in this sort of stuff. Very different to you guys on the States, you have so many guys with skills and knowledge that just doesn't exist over here. Just trying to reduce the odds of you know what I mean.
Cheers
So.....no build until you can afford a crankshaft? You won't know if the crank is good until the cylinders are off, pretty much committed at that point. Checking run out does not insure the crank is good, it can still have bad rod bearings.
Really the best thing to do is buy a stock bike and leave it that way.
Buy a stock 88" or 96" bike and leave it stock?
Great in theory, but there's no way I could do it 😂
Sure, what what about this comment,
"However starting my build only to find out that it needs bottom end work would be a deal breaker for me here downunder.."
So, like I asked, no build until you can afford a crankshaft? Because you won't know until the engine is torn down.
Ride it for a while, cam and tune once it seems to be a good running bike (or leave it stock) and enjoy it.
Then go full build when you have the money. Or sell it and buy another.
Luckily you have a 2nd hot rod bike to get it out of your system!
Quote from: PoorUB on October 22, 2020, 05:56:29 PM
Quote from: Adam76 on October 22, 2020, 04:24:04 PM
Quote from: PoorUB on October 22, 2020, 04:08:35 PM
Quote from: Adam76 on October 22, 2020, 03:56:34 PM
Yeah, this is true. However starting my build only to find out that it needs bottom end work would be a deal breaker for me here downunder... The cost of a new crank or flywheel work etc is huge and there are very few people / shops with the skills or experience who specialise in this sort of stuff. Very different to you guys on the States, you have so many guys with skills and knowledge that just doesn't exist over here. Just trying to reduce the odds of you know what I mean.
Cheers
So.....no build until you can afford a crankshaft? You won't know if the crank is good until the cylinders are off, pretty much committed at that point. Checking run out does not insure the crank is good, it can still have bad rod bearings.
Really the best thing to do is buy a stock bike and leave it that way.
Buy a stock 88" or 96" bike and leave it stock?
Great in theory, but there's no way I could do it 😂
Sure, what what about this comment,
"However starting my build only to find out that it needs bottom end work would be a deal breaker for me here downunder.."
So, like I asked, no build until you can afford a crankshaft? Because you won't know until the engine is torn down.
I guess it's just like life then, just going to have to take that gamble and hope it all holds together 😁.... if not, oh well so be it.
Quote from: Hossamania on October 22, 2020, 06:15:35 PM
Ride it for a while, cam and tune once it seems to be a good running bike (or leave it stock) and enjoy it.
Then go full build when you have the money. Or sell it and buy another.
Luckily you have a 2nd hot rod bike to get it out of your system!
Wise advice! Yes I probably would look at the CR-5702 cams and a good tune to keep me happy for a while.... from the results I'm seeing with this and a good exhaust, I may not even go any further.
Cheers
I would stay away from a 2008.
Older has good points
Newer has good points.
0 points for 2008 in my opinion.
2008 seems to be the most common model year for sale around here. Tough to find '09 to '13, especially RoadKings. Actually, tough to find RoadKings of any year.
Quote from: snowangel on October 23, 2020, 03:58:12 AM
I would stay away from a 2008.
Older has good points
Newer has good points.
0 points for 2008 in my opinion.
Curious as to you experience with the 2008 touring bikes.
I have a 2008 touring and a 2009 touring. They're different in a few ways regarding ride, handling, etc. I don't see one being better than the other in any way. They both have things that can be better, and that I have made better.
Quote from: Ohio HD on October 23, 2020, 08:11:33 AM
Quote from: snowangel on October 23, 2020, 03:58:12 AM
I would stay away from a 2008.
Older has good points
Newer has good points.
0 points for 2008 in my opinion.
Curious as to you experience with the 2008 touring bikes.
I have a 2008 touring and a 2009 touring. They're different in a few ways regarding ride, handling, etc. I don't see one being better than the other in any way. They both have things that can be better, and that I have made better.
Wife traded for a 2008 roadking when they first came out. No accesories were available at that time, which was a total pain in the ass.
2007 still has 1 inch wheel bearings, they last forever. 2008 has the thinner bearings and still same tire width as 2007.
2009 Has the new frame with the bigger rear tire that will last for 15,000 miles.
Quote from: snowangel on October 23, 2020, 09:29:33 AM
Quote from: Ohio HD on October 23, 2020, 08:11:33 AM
Quote from: snowangel on October 23, 2020, 03:58:12 AM
I would stay away from a 2008.
Older has good points
Newer has good points.
0 points for 2008 in my opinion.
Curious as to you experience with the 2008 touring bikes.
I have a 2008 touring and a 2009 touring. They're different in a few ways regarding ride, handling, etc. I don't see one being better than the other in any way. They both have things that can be better, and that I have made better.
Wife traded for a 2008 roadking when they first came out. No accesories were available at that time, which was a total pain in the ass.
2007 still has 1 inch wheel bearings, they last forever. 2008 has the thinner bearings and still same tire width as 2007.
2009 Has the new frame with the bigger rear tire that will last for 15,000 miles.
All kinds of accessories now, it's been 12 years.
2008 to present touring bikes uses 25mm wheel bearings......
Larger rear tire is fine, new frame is fine. But neither a reason not to buy a 2008.
How about seats? Old frame, new 6 gal tank. Shouldn't buy a bike and have to change a bunch things to make the same as another stock one.
Quote from: tbird on October 23, 2020, 06:23:33 PM
How about seats? Old frame, new 6 gal tank. Shouldn't buy a bike and have to change a bunch things to make the same as another stock one.
How about seats?
HD sells, them, Mustang sells them, Lepera sells them, etc., etc.
http://lepera.com/v4_Touring_Models_result.php
https://www.mustangseats.com/motorcycle-seats
Old frame six gallon tank? Is that something that has to be changed? I didn't change that, it rides just fine that way for the past 86,000 miles.
If you don't like the 2008 model, that's OK. But why talk a guy out of buying one that he wants to build and make his?
Myself and most of the guys on this site change about everything on their bikes, even when bought brand new.
The 2008 touring bike is basically the same as earlier touring bikes, less some changes that don't amount to much. Gearing is the only thing and six speed that is much different than the earlier bike. gearing can be changed easily, no less than four ways.
(1) front motor sprocket
(2) clutch basket gearing
(3) rear sprocket from 66 to 68 tooth (read above, it's simple)
(4) front sprocket 32 to 31, to 30 but will probably need a belt.
Or you can change them all.......
Thanks for all the feedback and info guys, much appreciated.
RKs are hard to find here too... that 2008 that was just for sale has already gone 🙄