HarleyTechTalk

can i sneak out map sensor 2010 dyna with out removing throttle body and just remove iac and sneak it out has it been done with any success before  ?

Quote from: hrdtail78 on Today at 09:14:16 AMYou will see a nice gain at that compression.

It's a natural anti knock.  Besides requiring more which adds in cooling.  Has better latent heat properties over gasoline.  This all equates to less limitation on how much timing can be run, and better thermal management.

IIRC You decided a Vision.  Sheffer's would definitely be on my short list of tuners. He has plenty of experience tuning it with vision.  Runs it in his own race bike.

Actually I've changed a few things. I reverted the primary gearing back to stock 34 x 46. So a TTS is what I'll be going to again. I also sold my Grudge Box and will be using  cruise drive that Andy Simon reworked for me. I want to replace the black dongle with a current TTS dongle.

Super tuner is more than capable of handling what you are doing and more.

You will see a nice gain at that compression.

It's a natural anti knock.  Besides requiring more which adds in cooling.  Has better latent heat properties over gasoline.  This all equates to less limitation on how much timing can be run, and better thermal management.

IIRC You decided a Vision.  Sheffer's would definitely be on my short list of tuners. He has plenty of experience tuning it with vision.  Runs it in his own race bike.

This topic has been moved to AFR & Tuning Zone .

https://harleytechtalk.com/htt/index.php?topic=121696.0

I promise, no "what is the best ... for my engine upgrade post."   Simple question for anyone with tuner experience.  My 2013 Deluxe currently has a stock 103 with a stage 1 flash upgrade.  The prior owner also had an SE Super Tuner installed back in the day as part of the Stage 1 upgrade.  I am looking at changing the cam to something with a little more top end/torque and my question concerns the Super Tuner.  I understand that the Super Tuner is obsolete and not supported by HD any longer.  My question is whether an upgraded cam will require an upgraded tuner, if it can be left alone or just have it removed? My guess is a new tuner of some sort is in my future.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Thanks

I think this would be a good oil to use, Motul 10W50 108586 300V2 Racing 4T Engine Oil

Quote from: hrdtail78 on Today at 05:00:38 AMWhat's your compression?  The higher compression, the better return with corn. 

I figure injector size for pump gas and figure about a third more for corn. 

There is really no special tuning requirements as for as ION. Still works and if target is set up correct.  Not much is real different on your AFR target and lambda target is straight forward. 

Pump corn is inconsistent of how much is actual corn compared to gasoline.  I like e90 from a barrel better. 

I know guys that have been running it for years.  Never a problem with other EFI components. 

When sourcing injectors.  A lot are on the market that will fit and spray fuel.  Most are corn rated.  But with different dead times and the need to use more fuel.  You can chase your tail with auto tune programs.  I really have had the best luck with and recommend sizing your injectors through Injector Dynamics. 

Good info Jason, thanks. My compression is 12.60:1, this motor will have the heads that Jim built for me. I guess the main interest is getting a little more HP from the E85. If it's really no more different than how you use gasoline, that helps make my decision. Hearing that others are using it with OEM pump, etc. is good to hear.

I would like to stay away from buying barrel fuel. I understand that it's more consistent, it's just storing it that concerns me a little. As the hassle of making sure I have some.

Durwood races his bagger with it, does quite well at the track. He's pushing big compression and big power numbers. Pretty sure it doesn't see much cruising 2 lanes, if any at all.

Quote from: Tacocaster on Today at 05:25:32 AMTechson,
I have very limited experience relative to others on this forum and particularly this thread, but I can share that I have seen a similar scenario.... once.....after the engine had already seized.

Based on the pics you provided, you have some serious wear on at least one of your cams and the obvious (wobble) wear on the backside (inside) of your cam plate. I never got to hear the engine prior to failure so I can't expand on what the owner heard - he said nothing noticeable but he did complain of a long term vibration and had previously gone through new engine mounts, his OEM, then a Fueling and finally an S&S cam plate before the main event, he admitted. He also admitted the original cam plate bolts showed a lot of "use" from previous owner. He had new ones in place.
On a side note, I have had trouble installing Fueling and S&S Cam plates I assume likely due to their tight tolerences. Perhaps your cam plate was installed incorrectly - not judging/suggesting, which caused similar wobble marks for both of you. Dunnofershur.

I suspected crank runout caused cam bearing failure followed by destruction of the cam bearing and it's mounting port but again, I'm the least experienced here. Post inspection of the oil pan did reveal he had been riding it beyond safe margins, however.
 
You say your crank is measured at .005? Can you show (pic) us how you measured it? I use an old cam plate cut in half, bushing removed with a dial set in a drilled pilot hole. (tried to post a pic on this quick reply but no joy).

Bottom line? I expect you have more crank runout that you measure, for whatever my opinion is worth. Re-measure to be sure and listen to the others on your thread. They are much more experienced.

***Just found Coyote has a pic posted in Homemade Tools Section under heading "Crank Runout"***

 

thanks for the input Tacocaster. I'm using the fuelmoto tool to measure runout on the pinion side of the crank. I did chase all the bolt holes and bolts in the case with a snapon thread chaser to clean off the old loctite and grime, blew brake cleaner and air to clean out all my holes. just a touch of blue loctite and torqued to spec per manual.  [/quote]