HarleyTechTalk

No offence taken.
 

Pulled the bottom end out today, and split the cases.

I have found a shop with the right tools and equipment to do the crank work and Timken bearing, so that's going ahead soon.

I ran into a small problem removing the balancer shaft assembly. Five of the 6 torx bolts came out relatively easy, except for the last one of course. It's just starting to slip and won't come out. I've tried heat, penetrating spray, even the impact wrench and it's not budging. It's the one with the red arrow in the picture.

Any ideas on what might work to get this last bolt out? Should I drill into it and use an eazy out tool?

Thanks.

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If you have access to hand help impact driver I'd try that first. You strike this with a hammer, cause a slight rotation, and the force should keep the bit in the fastener.

I have the same tool I bought around 1978, they don't get used that often, but are great when you have the situation you have.


https://www.tekton.com/1-2-inch-drive-impact-screwdriver-set-2910

are you going to stud the right side dowel holes for the camplate ?

as Brian suggests .......  Impact Driver   

  X2  If that doesn't work weld a nut onto it.  The heat of welding will help and the hex will give a good grasp.

   with what FSG says too. 

Thanks guys, they are all really helpful suggestions.

Much appreciated.

FSG I wasn't going to stud the right side dowel holes for the cam plate, but I guess I could read up on how to do it. 

Cheers

     I'd sure bee studding 

Quote from: Ohio HD on December 02, 2021, 09:19:11 PMIf you have access to hand help impact driver I'd try that first. You strike this with a hammer, cause a slight rotation, and the force should keep the bit in the fastener.

OK, my local tool shop has a set.... which bit do you suggest using? The flat blade?

Thanks

Quote from: Adam76 on December 03, 2021, 12:12:07 AM

Quote from: Ohio HD on December 02, 2021, 09:19:11 PMIf you have access to hand help impact driver I'd try that first. You strike this with a hammer, cause a slight rotation, and the force should keep the bit in the fastener.

OK, my local tool shop has a set.... which bit do you suggest using? The flat blade?

Thanks

You want to use the bit that matches the fastener, it may not be a part of that kit. You may need to get one. Hard to tell, but looks like it's a torx fastener.

Use a heat gun on the case where the bolt goes in, not on the bolt itself. Torx bit that fits the bolt snugly, in a socket that fits the impact driver.You cannot see attachments on this board.

Ditto on the impact driver!
Bought mine in the early 70's and still use it occasionally.
 

Just for ha-ha's...I have had an issue or two with Torx fasteners.  On a few occasions I was able to remove a stubborn, or damaged Torx with an Allen, or Hexhead wrench/socket  Whatever You'd like to call it.  And vice versa.  Bad Allen fastener...used a Torx.

Quote from: HogMike on December 03, 2021, 06:33:54 AMDitto on the impact driver!
Bought mine in the early 70's and still use it occasionally.
 

I bought an impact driver, and it didn't even make a dent.... I realised that i was applying heat to the wrong area. The bolts are quite long and the threaded section is only at the end on the bolt. Once I heated up that area, it came out in one turn of the impact gun.

I now have both sides of the crankcase back from the shop where they pressed in the good crank and all the necessary bearings.

Just waiting for some Yamabond to put the cases back together.

Take a blunt nose drift and hit it hard first. I assume the head is not rounded out yet. Use an impact gun to get it broken loose not hand tools. Some of the electrics like a Dewalt are not too violent. The head of the bolt and the tool must be as new, not damaged for success.

Quote from: Adam76 on December 18, 2021, 03:31:27 AM

Quote from: HogMike on December 03, 2021, 06:33:54 AMDitto on the impact driver!
Bought mine in the early 70's and still use it occasionally.
 

I bought an impact driver, and it didn't even make a dent.... I realised that i was applying heat to the wrong area. The bolts are quite long and the threaded section is only at the end on the bolt. Once I heated up that area, it came out in one turn of the impact gun.

I now have both sides of the crankcase back from the shop where they pressed in the good crank and all the necessary bearings.

Just waiting for some Yamabond to put the cases back together.

Just checking, you did have the impact set to loosen the fastener, not tighten?
Also using them, I always try to keep tension on the fastener in a counter-clockwise rotation so that the impact hits aren't wasted. All of the rotation is against the fastener.

Quote from: Ohio HD on December 18, 2021, 09:07:36 AM

Quote from: Adam76 on December 18, 2021, 03:31:27 AM

Quote from: HogMike on December 03, 2021, 06:33:54 AMDitto on the impact driver!
Bought mine in the early 70's and still use it occasionally.
 

I bought an impact driver, and it didn't even make a dent.... I realised that i was applying heat to the wrong area. The bolts are quite long and the threaded section is only at the end on the bolt. Once I heated up that area, it came out in one turn of the impact gun.

I now have both sides of the crankcase back from the shop where they pressed in the good crank and all the necessary bearings.

Just waiting for some Yamabond to put the cases back together.

Just checking, you did have the impact set to loosen the fastener, not tighten?
Also using them, I always try to keep tension on the fastener in a counter-clockwise rotation so that the impact hits aren't wasted. All of the rotation is against the fastener.

I could have made the same mistake in my younger years, but mine had some little arrows to show which way to tighten/loosen!
  

Quote from: HogMike on December 18, 2021, 11:34:55 AM

Quote from: Ohio HD on December 18, 2021, 09:07:36 AM

Quote from: Adam76 on December 18, 2021, 03:31:27 AM

Quote from: HogMike on December 03, 2021, 06:33:54 AMDitto on the impact driver!
Bought mine in the early 70's and still use it occasionally.
 

I bought an impact driver, and it didn't even make a dent.... I realised that i was applying heat to the wrong area. The bolts are quite long and the threaded section is only at the end on the bolt. Once I heated up that area, it came out in one turn of the impact gun.

I now have both sides of the crankcase back from the shop where they pressed in the good crank and all the necessary bearings.

Just waiting for some Yamabond to put the cases back together.

Just checking, you did have the impact set to loosen the fastener, not tighten?
Also using them, I always try to keep tension on the fastener in a counter-clockwise rotation so that the impact hits aren't wasted. All of the rotation is against the fastener.

I could have made the same mistake in my younger years, but mine had some little arrows to show which way to tighten/loosen!
  

   Yes, I had in on loosen, not tighten. The tool itself has markings and arrows to make sure you're going in the right direction.

Anyways, got it off easily once I applied the heat in the right place. 

Just waiting on some Yamabond to reseal the cases.

Got the case back with the new (to me) crank and all bearings pressed in. Balancer shaft assembly is in.

Any good ideas on how to stabilise the left case half really well so the balancer shaft nuts can be tightened? The FSM calls for 80 ft/lbs and I don't want to be pushing on the cylinder studs at all.   I was thinking maybe putting it back in place in the frame and loosely putting the two front engine mount bolts in place?

Merry Christmas to you, and may the Lord bless you and your families.

You cannot see attachments on this board.You cannot see attachments on this board.

Pop the chain and sprockets back off, and align the three colored links with the three arrows- one on each sprocket, and the third on the pinion shaft sprocket. Take a metal shaft ( around 1/4" - 5/16" diameter a few inches long) that just barely slides into the hole in the counter balancer and housing, and it will hold the assy for torqueing. (I've seen guys use what used to be a #2 phillips screwdriver, but with the tip cut off)


Merry Christmas!

Quote from: rigidthumper on December 24, 2021, 05:22:31 AMPop the chain and sprockets back off, and align the three colored links with the three arrows- one on each sprocket, and the third on the pinion shaft sprocket. Take a metal shaft ( around 1/4" - 5/16" diameter a few inches long) that just barely slides into the hole in the counter balancer and housing, and it will hold the assy for torqueing. (I've seen guys use what used to be a #2 phillips screwdriver, but with the tip cut off)


Merry Christmas!

Thanks Rigidthumper, I have inserted the balancer locking bolts, but just cant get enough leverage to torque that bloody nut down to 80 ft/lbs..... The whole case keeps moving.

I'm tempted to mount the left side of the case back into the frame by using the two front engine mount bolts.... but I'm worried about cracking the case??  Any other methods?

Thanks, and a happy new year to you all.

This is one of those times a friend comes in handy

I was going to mention that, rigid you beat me to it.

or

Sit on the ground, cross legs in an Indian style position, with a towel down between your lap and the case, hug it with the left arm pulling it towards you. And pull the torque wrench towards you with the right hand. Then reverse the case and do the other side.


You see, I don't have any friends......     

Thanks guys, will try that.

there's a YouTube video of this exact procedure, and they use an air gun / rattle gun / impact wrench (whatever it's called in the US) to do these nuts up. I'm no expert, but I'm willing to bet that's NOT a good idea...

Engine cases are back together. Just waiting on my pistons and cylinders to arrive (Thanks Don) and I'm just about there.

Have a good new year, and thanks for all the help and advice you have given me on this build.

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a few things to do while you wait ..

take 50 thou of the compensator nut if it's not been shortened already

open up the top ends of the PR Tubes to 5/8" if you have that drill bit, 15 or 15.5 mm if it