Well.. sometimes you're best not knowing, but having taken my primary in bits to inspect the stator and replace the primary chain.. I've found something quite nasty on the clutch hub / shaft.. its a 1989 FXR so on a taper with a key... and you guessed it... it's moved and caused damage... bugger!.... so I need new bits..but I have seen a post where it says a 1990 splined shaft and a 1990 inner hub will fit right in there using the existing bits... anyone know the detail of this and the part numbers?.... :dgust:
Also, can you change the main shaft with the box in the bike??? :smile:
I'm going to stay in for the rest of July now... as my luck has just hit rock bottom !!! :idunno:
we used to do it all the time back in the day, main shaft # Andrews,296900,oem# 35042-90.you`ll also need a `90 up clutch
Thanks for that and the numbers the one I thought :teeth: ... but I'm also told you can just buy a hub that will use all the existing clutch bits.... so think that may be the 90-93 hub unit?
Can you do thin in the bike?
thanks again.....
Ok... so ive looked further... so i need the full 90/93 FXR of 90/96 FL clutch with the splined shaft....
does anything need setting up / shimming?
Can it be done in the bike?... thanks
The case can stay in the frame-follow the procedures to R&R the mainshaft in the service manual.
Dont have the manual :oops: any pointers.. will have to get one... does the inner primary stay on or come off?... just this bit of info and i can get started... thanks
BTW.. just looking around for bits.. and the Elvis place has a full clutch, chain and front sprocket... but he's asking $500 plus for it... wowzer.. im sure you could build a new one for that?...
Yeah, Elvis is generally pretty proud of the stuff he has. Less of the old stuff to be found every year though....
Mark
FXR power train shares a lot of parts with the FLT.
Don't buy parts from the most expensive source on the interwebz.
If you do, call him up and haggle with him, make him earn it....
does the inner primary stay on or come off?... just this bit of info and i can get started... thanks
The inner has to come off.
Thats great.. thanks.. will make a start tonight :)
`90-`93 clutch has the same starter ring gear (66 tooth) and primary chain sprocket (37 tooth) sizes as your current setup.
The clutch will probably be the most expensive part of this job, whole gearsets can usually be found on ebay for around 200 bucks.
Quote from: 1340evo on July 09, 2017, 04:57:41 AM
Thats great.. thanks.. will make a start tonight :)
You are going to need tools to remove and reinstall the bearing race for the mainshaft support bearing in the inner primary.
While you are in there, you need to replace the final drive pulley, seal, and spacer with -94 parts.
Don't put it back together with the early stuff or you will be doing this all over again.
ok.. thanks.. whats the differance?.. the bike was re-built about 2000 miles ago and all these bits replaced.. so i may already have them...
there is a breaker in the UK who may have a clutch.. need to call him Monday... if he has, its game on... If not I may have to stay with the taper as it gets very expensive... unless there is a cheaper after market clutch I could use??
The other weak link is the trans pulley. stock the hub is say 1/2 " with going out in garage to measure up , the newer upgraded ones 94 or 95 are about 3/4 " thick . The old ones like to rip out the splines and leave you on the side of the road. 1st sign is trans oil leaking along back side of pri- cover.
If it's been done fine , do it if not .
Quote from: Burnout on July 09, 2017, 06:08:37 AM
Quote from: 1340evo on July 09, 2017, 04:57:41 AM
Thats great.. thanks.. will make a start tonight :)
You are going to need tools to remove and reinstall the bearing race for the mainshaft support bearing in the inner primary.
While you are in there, you need to replace the final drive pulley, seal, and spacer with -94 parts.
Don't put it back together with the early stuff or you will be doing this all over again.
Ok.. in there now and what you are saying is all adding up.. I'm making a puller to remove the mainshaft support inner (I assume the re-fit just uses a tube and you screw it back on).. is there a dimension for this?
The seal you refer and the spacer...I'm not sure what these are just yet... The bike has a chain conversion so no pulley issues... so do I have to remove the sprocket?.. I thought the main shaft just pulled through and assumed the main drive just disenguaged internaly?...
CHAIN CONVERSION :doh:
Now this comes out.....
Who's chain conversion?
Was the spacer updated then?
All this business about the pulley and spacer assumes you have stock parts.
Take the chain sprocket off and post a pic, and someone will tell you which spacer you have.
Changing the spacer will require changing the sprocket too.
No you do not have to remove the sprocket to service the mainshaft.
yes.. it was a full kit.. so guess the spacer / seal will be okay... nothing showing at all leak wise... so should be good... I'll have a look tonight and see what make it is,, maybe pull the sprockett off if I can :)
[attachimg=2]GENUINE MOTORCYCLE STOREHOUSE PRODUCT
MCS PART NUMBER : 901930
The sprocket is a
OFFSET TRANS SPROCKET
24 TOOTH
WITH 5mm SPACER
SPROCKET IS 22mm OVERALL WIDTH
FITS SOFTAIL MODELS FROM 1990-2006
AND FXR MODELS FROM 1985-1994
Looking down there are no leaks but the spacer and seal are probably of the original type?... cant see anything in the file to suggest otherwise.. but you can tell the seal is new.... there is still grease on the spacer from being fitted...
[attach=0]
That is the early spacer.
I don't know how that holds up with a chain, the pulley probably already fell off...
Watch for lock screw to shear off.
OK.. so whats the process to upgrade?.. Is it from the inside or a simple outside job ;)
Tell me more on the spacer bit.. whats up with the old ones?... is the new one bigger OD?.. so guess the seal is smaller?...
The late configuration spacer has a larger outside diameter (the oil seal has a smaller inside diameter, of course).
The spacer is also shorter, because the transmission pulley is thicker.
Great info.. thanks.. so with it being shorter I can't fit it anyway.... unless there is one made for the job... Posts above suggest I can just replace it with a new one.. nothing about filling the gap as it's shorter?.. Wonder if its an upgrade parts thats available?... cheers
great info Dan.. thanks for the PM... (your mailbox is full BTW so I could not reply).. .. ive bought a 1990 Harley-Davidson FLHS Electra Glide Clutch Basket w/ Primary Gear & Chain from the US.. total cost in the UK around $350!!!.. this i sthe problem here with shipping and tax... I now need the shaft. or as you say, will look for a full gear assy.. whats the advantage of this over getting the shaft?.. are the later ones stronger / better ratio etc? Im fine with what I have now performance wise and again, its the shipping costs / tax on anything more epensive that kills it... I'm guessing I'll need to do something with the clutch pushrod but will see when it all arrives... Mid summer and off the road!.. bummer :chop:
The 1990 mainshaft is the only shaft that is compatable with your current gearset.
But if you cannot find a `90 mainshaft, don`t give up, you can simply use an entire later model gearset from any model year. Check with your local independent shops, they may have gearsets that were removed when the 6 speed upgrade was popular.
Lots of 90 shafts out there.. but the cheapest is $170.. plus $30 to ship then plus $40 tax plus $ 10 uk charge so you can see, it soon adds up...
There will be nothing in the UK.. only 2 or 3 big breaker of HD this side and I've checked with them all.. .and if they did have a gear set it would be $500 !...
If there is not advantage, I'll just get the shaft... cheaper to ship etc...
Will try pull the existing out tonight and inspect what I have also... Make sure I don't have any chips :)
Well, its all out.. and in great condition.. Made a puller the get the inner primary bearing off and it worked a treat.. so if anyone needs one (UK obviously)
[attach=0]
[attach=1]
[attachimg=3]
.. It's here....
Anyone know how you get the bearing on the new shaft?... I was thinking just tubes and the screw on the end of the shaft, but coming off it was seriously tight?.. is there another way??
I use PVC Tube and washers, HD have a special tool P/N-I-Forget , while S&S have their own (Link Below)
What IPB Race do you plan to put back on?
https://www.sscycle.com/docs/default-source/instruction-sheets/51-1219_innerprimarybearingracepn56-5145_20060824.pdf
PVC tube?.. no.. it was tighter than that... ?
I was going to put the same one back as it feals tight enough and the rollers are in good shape (30k miles on the bike)... there are two new ones came with the bike ... 530510 ALL BALLS kit.. and JIMS 8960 but think thats 90 up? i could use one of these but the original does look good?.
Do yourself a huge favor and replace the shifter pawl spring (34087-79A) while you're there.
Quote from: rigidthumper on July 14, 2017, 04:31:41 PM
Do yourself a huge favor and replace the shifter pawl spring (34087-79A) while you're there.
Yep, and get the Baker, better all around....
Mark
Okay.. will do... going back to the pulley spacer... whats the deal with that?... do I need to replace it, how do they fail?.... Thanks
First you need to figure out what length pulley spacer your need to work with the chain sprocket configuration.
The old configuration pulley spacer is .250" longer than the new one.
I am surprised it was not upgraded when the chain conversion was done.
It is possible that the sprocket is tougher than the pulley and will live.
But the real problem is the narrow base, the thin spacer provides less support than the nut.
With the upgrade the spacer has the same or more area as the nut.
The upgraded spacer is also ~1/4" shorter which gives the pulley/sprocket a better/wider grip on the splines.
ok.. thanks... so get a bigger one (thinner oil seal)... and maybe a mushroom head version... i can make one at work :wink:
You could make a larger diameter spacer like the -94 and use the -94 seal.
You would need to make the spacer the same length as the early spacer so you don't have to change the drive sprocket.
You could also drill the sprocket for the 2 bolt lock tab. It will not guarantee locking the nut but it will hold better than the single screw. (If the lock ring will fit inside the sprocket)
yup.. will do.. any idea if the spacer is hardened at all?... I can test it when I get it off... will make one ... Cheers...
Well, a big thanks to eveyone who contributed to this thread.. job now done and the 1990 clutch over the 1989 one is sooooo much better.
well worth while modification and for some reason, the gearbox feals so much smoother and getting neutral is much easier....
Thanks again for all your post :up: :up: :up: :up: