Milwaukee 8 compensator destroyed

[MakoHD]

The compensator on my road glide broke into 3 pieces, 400 miles after building my motor up. I'm wondering if anyone else has had this issue? Right before that I stripped 31 teeth of my belt. I Got rid of the belt and went chain drive. now I have a solid front sprocket from evolution industries so the compensator issue won't be happening again but I hate the noise in the primary. If anyone else has been trough this and you have some advice i would appreciate it, thank you!

[Nastytls]

What noise are you referring to?

If there is noise I'd suspect something is wrong, my solid Comp doesn't make any noise at all.

[MakoHD]

At first it was a loud chain whack like if the chain was loose, which it was the chain. its tension was at 7/8- 1' at the looses position. that was caused by a tensioner stopper that I purchased  from evolution industries. what that does is that it stops the tensioner from over tightening the chain by not letting it go up, that part is made for you to shave it down to where you're going to need it, but at first I didn't know that. so I removed the part and I tensioned it to 5/8. but it does not sound like a stock bike. I just want to know if there is a way to quite it down or I'm missing something. crank runout is 3 thousands of an inch. transmission shaft is perfect. it has an evolution billet basket with stock center hub.

[Desertwndrr]

Jeez.  I gotta know what you've done to build the motor up to the point that you shred the belt and blow up a compensator.

[MakoHD]

It puts out 160 pounds of torque on a 6th gear pull SAE but I have 49 tooth (stock 46 tooth) primary basket which actually hurts my dyno reading. but that's just a dyno number i'm not racing on a dyno or ridding on a dyno lol bike feels great.

[MakoHD]

This was the compensator

[Nastytls]

If there is noise in your primary it is not coming from the solid comp; it has no moving parts to make noise. Maybe your chain was damaged when the comp blew up, or maybe there was damage done elsewhere in the primary that's causing the noise.

[Ohio HD]

Did you put an indicator on the crankshaft and the transmission shaft before calling it good?

[MakoHD]

The crank is at 0.03" the transmission is completely new after the compensator went.. The chain was replaced with a new one for the same reason that it might of gotten stretched. I was just listening to it and it's not really making much noise, it doesn't sound like a stock bike but it's not a stock bike. I could of tighten the chain more but I choose not too because the chain too  tight might cause to loose hp. I also raised the idle from 900rpms to 1000rpms so it can idle smoother. Just like the Sporters come with the idle at 1050rpms since they have a solid gear on the crank. So for the ones that are trying to make strong power and you're actually gonna put it to work, don't risk braking the compensator. It can brake a lot of stuff along the way.

[Ohio HD]

The crank is at 0.03" the transmission is completely new after the compensator went.. The chain was replaced with a new one for the same reason that it might of gotten stretched. I was just listening to it and it's not really making much noise, it doesn't sound like a stock bike but it's not a stock bike. I could of tighten the chain more but I choose not too because the chain too  tight might cause to loose hp. I also raised the idle from 900rpms to 1000rpms so it can idle smoother. Just like the Sporters come with the idle at 1050rpms since they have a solid gear on the crank. So for the ones that are trying to make strong power and you're actually gonna put it to work, don't risk braking the compensator. It can brake a lot of stuff along the way.

Sure about that? 0.030" means that crank is trash.

[MakoHD]

Yes my typo it's  0.003".

[No Cents]

  what kind of engine mods do you have that puts out 160tq?

[MakoHD]

124ci, custom grind cam, heads, valves, HPI throttle body, Krome Werks 2-2 exhaust. 11:1 compression
what gear are you doing the pulls in?

[Ohio HD]

Dyno sheet?

[Billy]

50 miles after a questionable dyno tune. 2019 CVO Road Glide 128 FM kit

[attach=0,msg1285961]

[MakoHD]

I'll post one up tomorrow.
what are you putting in there?

[Billy]

Just ordered the solid from Evolution

[MakoHD]

Sounds good let me know If it gets any louder.
How's the FM doing for you ?

[Nastytls]

Two self destructing compensators? WTF?

[Billy]

Sounds good let me know If it gets any louder.
How's the FM doing for you ?

Not my bike. The owner had it dynoed and I believe the comp was damaged during the tuning, he got it back and claimed it didn't shift right and after a 50 mile test ride it wouldn't start, he brought it to me and it kinda sounded like a bad starter clutch, I took the primary cover off and found the broken compensator.

[attach=0,msg1285997]

[MakoHD]

if you compare the M8 compensator to to the twin cam compensator you'll see that the M8 one is about 1/4' thinner then the twin cam one exactly at the point were its braking. I already tried to install the twin cam one but it throws the chain alignment off, and the primary cover hits the crank bolt.
was the big nut seized up on the sprocket?
mine was due to that the m8 doesn't have that flat bearing like the twin cam does. it has instead a plastic washer with groves in it for oil lubrication but I don't believe that's cutting it.
its just my opinion I might be wrong lol.

[MakoHD]

bad ass! enjoy that beast! would you know what gear was that done in?

[Coyote]

Don't think there's any question about the tune.   

[Billy]

if you compare the M8 compensator to to the twin cam compensator you'll see that the M8 one is about 1/4' thinner then the twin cam one exactly at the point were its braking. I already tried to install the twin cam one but it throws the chain alignment off, and the primary cover hits the crank bolt.
was the big nut seized up on the sprocket?
mine was due to that the m8 doesn't have that flat bearing like the twin cam does. it has instead a plastic washer with groves in it for oil lubrication but I don't believe that's cutting it.
its just my opinion I might be wrong lol.

Yes, it was seized. Thanks for the heads up on the sliding cam, didn't know it was thinner.

[Billy]

Don't think there's any question about the tune.   

You think the comp was skipping during the tune?

[Billy]

bad ass! enjoy that beast! would you know what gear was that done in?

No. That's all the info that was provided. He took the bike to my recommended tuner, but unfortunately his dyno is down, so he took it to another "tuner" whom I warned him against but he went there anyway as there isn't many to choose from around these parts.

[Coyote]

Don't think there's any question about the tune.   

You think the comp was skipping during the tune?

Not sure what was going on but it should have been a red flag to stop and look.

[rbabos]

Don't think there's any question about the tune.   

You think the comp was skipping during the tune?

It can't skip if the cam is in one piece but most likely hammered hard from a low rpm high load to wfo.
Ron

[MakoHD]

negative ghost rider! if that would of been the case your crank would of been demolished. make sure you pull out the rotor to clean all the metal that went back there.
when you get a chance take the bike to another tuner, because your graph looks weird lol BUT if the bike feels good tell he dyno queens to take it to the street.

[Billy]

Don't think there's any question about the tune.   

You think the comp was skipping during the tune?

Not sure what was going on but it should have been a red flag to stop and look.

Exactly!

[MakoHD]

Also many tuners do pulls on different gears for final result. you always want to know what gear was your final pull done on so when you compare to other people dyno runs you're comparing apples to apples. there's an accurate 7% power increase from 4th to 5th and from 5th to 6th.   

[Billy]

Don't think there's any question about the tune.   

You think the comp was skipping during the tune?

It can't skip if the cam is in one piece but most likely hammered hard from a low rpm high load to wfo.
Ron

The sliding cam was in three pieces when it came to me. I could turn the clutch by hand and of course the crank wasn't turning.

[Billy]

negative ghost rider! if that would of been the case your crank would of been demolished. make sure you pull out the rotor to clean all the metal that went back there.
when you get a chance take the bike to another tuner, because your graph looks weird lol BUT if the bike feels good tell he dyno queens to take it to the street.

Weird for sure. I believe the sliding cam was compromised during the dyno session causing the peaks and valleys in the graph, as well as the low HP.

I will definitely clean out all the swarf behind the rotor and all the primary components.

[John D]

How you measure sprocketshaft is very important in determining amount of run-out your compensator is having to deal with, if you only measure run-out by skipping over top of splines and with a ground spacer you may not be getting the full picture?