well i seen where on the shovel heads u can have a line to each head instead of feeding from the back to the front well i came with this and would u know it the bike STOPPED SMOKING!!!!!!! so happy tell me what yall think and if anyone has done this i know they sell the kit but this is the poor mans way lol
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That's how mine's done too, except with tubing and fittings not hose. Most of it winds up hidden behind the carb
(http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/ww263/LittleAl_2008/1954%20PanHead/Picture009.jpg)
al how did u get the cylinder drilled?
53Pan, love to help you out, but I got the motor that way. I only did the tubing setup. It came done in hose, not neat like yours, but hose none-the-less. I thought the steel line, curved low between the lifter blocks then up and hidden by the carb would look nicer.
I believe, based on the casting dates & numbers on the heads, they are OEM from 1956 on my '54 motor, although I do not know for sure.
ok its all good i idk if splitting the oil pressure up caused that head not to load up with all the oil and do the hole cross over thing
Al,
Your heads are '63-'65. The earlier castings did not have the bosses for the outside oil lines. The '63-'65 heads have the same casting numbers as the '58-'62 heads so the numbers tend to be mis-leading. But the outside oil line bosses are a dead give-away of them being later heads.
-Craig
geez, how did you guys learn so much?????
no matter how, I'm always grateful you guys know AND are so willing to share that knowledge!
Little Al ,,,on your oiling ,,have you ran this set up yet??? I have run similar systems and am a millwright,,,,your front head will have to pressurize before it forces oil to the back head....You have to turn the T 90 degrees counterclockwise to work properly,,,,the oil doesn't know you want it to go left at the "T" to the rear head....I have found this out on race sleds and had isues at work...
Dave
That setup behind the carb is similar to how I have mine set up for a knuckle. It is fed from a port on the back end of the cam cover though. The lines are home made but I did use the portion at the top from the "Y" up to the rockers. My thought was that the even with a "Y" versus a "T" the oil would take the path of least resistance then pressurize the other line but it does pressurize evenly eventually right? By eventually I mean within seconds.
ricochet
Little Al,
Panheads with overhead oiling lines for the heads are known for over-oiling. Most people take a pop rivet and remove the center. Then put the pop rivet at one of the fittings in the oil lines. That pop rivet hole will be about .060.
I see that you have some of those Colony rippled pushrod covers. I haven't seen any of those in a while.
guys,
I personally have not run this setup longer then the few minutes I started the bike when I bought it. I bought it from the second owner who owned it like 40+ years. Everything he claimed that I was able to confirm was 100% true. He told me he ran the overhead oilers "for years & years". The T and steel lines was my idea. I always believed what I was told about Shovels & pans, oiling is all about volume, not pressure. I think I'll be ok with this setup. what do you smarter guys really think?
got thos covers with the motor, I was gonna change them, but I kinda like them, a bit different. Gonna keep them for now
Al here is oilline plumbing I have,,it has manifold and a guage...
Dave
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wow Dave, that is a work of art!
Al ,,its a kit from Vulcan in NH,,the manifold ,lines and guage come in the kit ...got it for $74.00..I also a another manifold for doin the shovel ,gonna try to 1/8 brake line on that job,,as cheaper than braided.
Dave
I wound up using a combo of SS braided hose (which I had lots of from my Shovel project) and chrome lines. it worked out but nothing so beautiful as yours...