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Sealed Wheel Bearing Puller

Started by scootertrash1, March 13, 2019, 03:52:25 PM

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scootertrash1

I am at Daytona Bike Week. While riding 2010 Ultra up US 1 last night, It felt like my front tire was having a problem. After looking closely (in the dark) and seeing no tire issue, I tried moving again. Any speed over 30 was creating a lot of noise. Limped it home 25 MPH. Once home and in the light, I see remnants of my front wheel bearing. Disassembly today and I have pieces of roller cage, race and few roller balls. I looked in the home made tool section in HTT but see nothing on bearing removal tool. My service manual points to a HD-44060B Bearing Remover/Installer. Is there a quick to be had tool available? Local HD wants $175 and me in at 7 AM for them to do. The Ultra just turned 50K miles yesterday and decided to blow the bearings! Thanks.

No Cents

...if your in Daytona...Kirby Apathy's shop is near by you in Deland. I bet he could help you.
08 FLHX my grocery getter, 124ci, wfolarry 110" heads, Burns pipe, 158/152 sae

road-dawgs1

Go get a dynabolt (concrete sleeve anchor) the right size to fit inside the bearing. Tighten the dynabolt so that it grips the inside of the bearing and then drive the bearing out from the opposite side

'24 FLTRX Sharkskin blue

klammer76

Quote from: No Cents on March 13, 2019, 03:59:07 PM
...if your in Daytona...Kirby Apathy's shop is near by you in Deland. I bet he could help you.
I agree. If you can get there, just see Kirby and be done. Especially if you are riding a distance to get home.

doctorevil

how do you get the concrete anchor to expand? i  had to pound the hell out of them into concrete so the bolt did not turn. i used 3/4 anchors for the car lift.

scootertrash1

Thanks for the responses. Deland is a bit of a hike from where I am. I'd just as well come up with the tool to do the job myself. Didn't want to spend $400 for a puller. I'm seeing the puller kits on Ebay and Amazon $60 to $80, have to study which one? Being one in the front went bad, I'll need to change the two there. Dang sure going to pull the two in the rear, then there is my 03' Fatboy that I'll be doing, then my son's Ultra.......

Panzer

Quote from: road-dawgs1 on March 13, 2019, 04:46:06 PM
Go get a dynabolt (concrete sleeve anchor) the right size to fit inside the bearing. Tighten the dynabolt so that it grips the inside of the bearing and then drive the bearing out from the opposite side


Quote from: road-dawgs1 on March 13, 2019, 04:46:06 PM
Go get a dynabolt (concrete sleeve anchor) the right size to fit inside the bearing. Tighten the dynabolt so that it grips the inside of the bearing and then drive the bearing out from the opposite side


I believe you have to hold the bolt while tightening the hex head then the (bottom) center plug will be driven up into the bolt for expansion.
Use a pipe wrench as a hold back.
Everyone wants to change the world but, no one wants to change the toilet paper.

kd

March 13, 2019, 07:29:35 PM #7 Last Edit: March 13, 2019, 07:35:21 PM by kd
If it was me, and I was out of town on a trip,  the $175 would be lookin pretty good, considering it gets me back on the road immediately and enjoying the rest of my holiday.  The time it takes to get the tools, and go to the dealer anyway to get the bearings etc will take a couple days or more.   I'd be takin a cab or Uber to the dealer in the morning (or maybe mooch a ride) with my wheel but that's me....   :nix:  If you do the math it's probably not such a bad deal considering.
KD

PoorUB

Did the bearing fall apart?

If it did you have a bigger problem. None of the normal pullers will pull the bare outer race out of the wheel. You may need to find a welding shop and have them run a bead with a MIG on the outer race. After it cools it should fall out.

If you have some patience, You might be able to put the inner race in place and work the balls into place equally spaced around the bearing and then use a wheel bearing puller.
I am an adult?? When did that happen, and how do I make it stop?!

Hossamania

Quote from: kd on March 13, 2019, 07:29:35 PM
If it was me, and I was out of town on a trip,  the $175 would be lookin pretty good, considering it gets me back on the road immediately and enjoying the rest of my holiday.  The time it takes to get the tools, and go to the dealer anyway to get the bearings etc will take a couple days or more.   I'd be takin a cab or Uber to the dealer in the morning (or maybe mooch a ride) with my wheel but that's me....   :nix:  If you do the math it's probably not such a bad deal considering.

Yup, that. When I'm on vacation, or stranded anywhere, I don't worry about a couple hundred bucks to get me going.
If the government gives you everything you want,
it can take away everything you have.

harpwrench

I'd just pay to have it done right, even if you cobble up a way to remove them the new bearings need to be installed properly. there's reasonable chance of failure your first time even if you had the right tools.

FSG

Quote
Limped it home 25 MPH.

home as in home OR where your staying while there

Quote
Disassembly today and I have pieces of roller cage, race and few roller balls.

As said earlier it's not going to be easy getting the outer race out, even giving it to HD they may come back at you for more $$ once they see what they have to deal with.

I'd be thinking of visiting Kirby so as ton get the outer race out without further damage and then have things measured.  It maybe that the rim has been damaged in the area of the bearing.

kd

Even if Kirby is a short jaunt away and you have to rent a cheap car (under $50) to get there, it sounds like a good choice.   That is of course if he is there and able to help.  Give him a call at least.  Tell him we pressured you into it.   :wink:
KD

fleetmechanic

We've had several front bearings where the inner race and the rollers fall out leaving the outer race intact.  Careful notching with a die grinder on the race and then popping it out with a large screwdriver works.  A heat gun can help, too.
These are not 100K mile bearings even if you don't run in the snow like we do.

kd

All of these self help solutions require tools that I suspect the OP doesn't have with him.  It's always nice to fix your own when it breaks, but some times you just have to have a clear head and find another way to get back in the groove.
KD

PoorUB

A friend had a wheel bearing fail while out west. The one wheel bearing just fell apart. The Harley dealer had him buy a new wheel because the old bearing's outer race was seized in the wheel. Well by god I hope it was seized, it is supposed to be! My guess is they had no clue how to get the outer race out of the wheel once the bearing fell apart and lost the balls.
I am an adult?? When did that happen, and how do I make it stop?!

Norton Commando

March 14, 2019, 05:39:02 AM #16 Last Edit: March 14, 2019, 09:42:51 AM by Norton Commando
Quote from: PoorUB on March 13, 2019, 08:50:27 PM
A friend had a wheel bearing fail while out west. The one wheel bearing just fell apart. The Harley dealer had him buy a new wheel because the old bearing's outer race was seized in the wheel. Well by god I hope it was seized, it is supposed to be! My guess is they had no clue how to get the outer race out of the wheel once the bearing fell apart and lost the balls.

Sad, but true. Many "mechanics" these days are merely robotic-parts-changers. If they run into an obstacle, their solution is to install new parts with little regard to the expense that must be borne by the customer.

With an inexpensive MIG welder, you can easily remove an outer race by making three tacks approximately equally spaced in the ID. Afterwards, the race will practically fall out; it's amazing.

Jason   
Remember, you can sleep in your car, but you can't drive your house.

scootertrash1

I actually live up north of Daytona. It's up on my lift in the garage right now. Got the front wheel off. There was still a few of the steel balls left in it. The cage looked like it was just wadded up like a scrap paper! What I didn't know was the difficulty getting the old race out. In my old EVO days, we cleaned and repacked bearings every 10K miles. When I lived in Illinois, we did this every winter! Got a guy in Bunnell that could put a weld bead on old race. I appreciate all folks commenting in the problem. I'll keep it posting in here on the outcome!

kd

Quote from: scootertrash1 on March 14, 2019, 07:31:34 AM
I actually live up north of Daytona. It's up on my lift in the garage right now. Got the front wheel off. There was still a few of the steel balls left in it. The cage looked like it was just wadded up like a scrap paper! What I didn't know was the difficulty getting the old race out. In my old EVO days, we cleaned and repacked bearings every 10K miles. When I lived in Illinois, we did this every winter! Got a guy in Bunnell that could put a weld bead on old race. I appreciate all folks commenting in the problem. I'll keep it posting in here on the outcome!


That's a whole other story with you living there.  I think most of us were thinkin you were "away" at Daytona on a vacation and broke down.  I know I did and offered my solutions with the thought it would get you back into your holiday quickest and save what was left of a trip.  It sounds like you have a handle on it so have at 'er.   :wink:   
KD

harpwrench

Quote from: kd on March 14, 2019, 07:39:03 AM
Quote from: scootertrash1 on March 14, 2019, 07:31:34 AM
I actually live up north of Daytona. It's up on my lift in the garage right now. Got the front wheel off. There was still a few of the steel balls left in it. The cage looked like it was just wadded up like a scrap paper! What I didn't know was the difficulty getting the old race out. In my old EVO days, we cleaned and repacked bearings every 10K miles. When I lived in Illinois, we did this every winter! Got a guy in Bunnell that could put a weld bead on old race. I appreciate all folks commenting in the problem. I'll keep it posting in here on the outcome!

That's a whole other story with you living there.  I think most of us were thinkin you were "away" at Daytona on a vacation and broke down.  I know I did and offered my solutions with the thought it would get you back into your holiday quickest and save what was left of a trip.  It sounds like you have a handle on it so have at 'er.   :wink:

:agree: :up:

scootertrash1

I didn't intend let people think I was from way out of town! I used to live 1000 miles away, but retired here not long ago.
I am curious as to longevity of these sealed units. My first HD with sealed bearings was a 2007 Ultra that I hit a deer with back in 2009. That scoot (totaled) had 29K on it and of course never an issue with that. I've got a 2003 Fatty with 35K on it with nary a problem. But my 2010 Ultra just turned 50K the day of this bearing failure, this past Tuesday night. Talking with my tire guy about bearings today. He had a Kaw Concourse a few years back that chucked a wheel bearing. Said he never pointed a power wash nozzle at the bearing/seal area, but got presoak and soap around the front and rear axle areas at a coin car wash. When his bearing failed, he said there were no signs of grease in it and concluded it was presoak and soap that dried it up. I never use a power wash but I use S-100 liberally, as all my bikes for 20 some years. What is left of my bearing from Tuesday's action, show hardly any grease residue. Hmmm! Old scoots had new seals and repacked every year. I saw these bearing all the time, but perhaps I ruined the sealed bearing squirting S-100 on them cleaning the bike.

PoorUB

There were a ton of bearing failures when HD went to the 25mm axle, right up through 2010 or so.

50,000 miles? I changed the bearings on my 2010 when I put on new tires about 18,000 miles. The rear bearings were "catching" already.

The HD replacement bearings are much better than the first go-round.
I am an adult?? When did that happen, and how do I make it stop?!

harpwrench

The front started howling around 40k on my '16 Limited, my wife's '13 with 40k has a noisy rear right now.

FSG

The 9276 bearing from HD is/was junk, lots failed on the '09, '10 and '11 and the right front wheel bearing on ABS touring bikes had issues. The new "9276A" bearing is OK.

I'd use a 6205-2RS, SKF, NTN, NACHI  or other from your local bearing house instead of the HD Bearing and instead of the HD ABS Bearing I'd use the PM Alternative.

billbuilds

     FSG,
     Ronnie's on line parts finder is showing a 9276B. Any experience with that version?  Also, would you have the p/n for the PM equivalent of HD''s 9252A ABS bearing? Bill