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what oil do you used in the primary and tranny

Started by Ratman1640, September 08, 2016, 05:24:25 PM

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Ratman1640

this is an 82 iron head and im new to the old bikes . I was wondering what oil to use in the primary/tranny. thanks Rat
where every you go..... there you are.......

JW113

Good question. I have used:

HD "Sport-trans" which they don't make anymore.
Type F Automatic transmission fluid.
Revtech sportster pri/trans oil.
HD "Formula+" which is their new pri/trans oil.
20W-50 motor oil (which the service manual says to use).

Frankly, I don't find much difference in any of it. Probably will stick with the 20W-50 since it's the best value.

-JW
2004 FLHRS   1977 FLH Shovelhead  1992 FLSTC
1945 Indian Chief   1978 XL Bobber

rider7816

 :pop: :pop: :pop: :pop: :pop: :pop:

I have been using straight sae60 in the engine and transmission/clutch, but Im thinking of using 20w50 next time in the transmission as it takes a while for the straight 60 to warm up. 

Im down here in south Florida, so I need all the cooling help I can get for this old bitch.

:missed:

garyajaz

I ran 50 wt.
BUT
when I switched to belt primary I went through a belt a year.
the belt people figured out the (back then) material in belt was being delaminated by the detergents in the oil.
I switched to non- detergent.
only could get 40 wt.
been using it bout 30 years.
belts last 10-15 years.

would not use atf or really light oil cause of the gears.
if had my choice and sealed off holes from tranny to primary  would run red line in tranny and mtl in primary.

JW113

I understand the concern, ATF would seem too light weight. However, there are gears inside an automatic transmission too. Think of the loads placed on an Allison automatic trans in big rig 18 wheeler trucks or those gigantic monster earther movers compared to a measly sportster, and they run fine and go very very far on ATF. Many OEMs also use ATF in 4WD transfer cases now, in an effort to reduce drag and improve fuel mileage. I think at the end of the day, lubrication is lubrication. I never had any issue with ATF in an ironhead. But no issues with pretty much anything I ever used either. I think as long as there is some kind of oil in there, you're good to go. These trannies seem to not care.

-JW
2004 FLHRS   1977 FLH Shovelhead  1992 FLSTC
1945 Indian Chief   1978 XL Bobber

Ohio HD

This is a decent product that works well with transmission and clutch. I started using this in my TC primary, the clutch loves it, and the chain and sprockets get lubed well, no more dust on the magnetic drain plug. Actually a buddy that has a bunch of Iron Heads introduced the product to me.

In the Sporty, I'd use the 80wt.

http://www.belray.com/bel-ray-gear-saver-transmission-oil

nibroc

IMMHO if ya run a baker extra plate wet or dry ya need sumptin like formula+ for the clutches to work properly---yeah its not red line SP in the tranny---ive had no trouble w/formula+ in my ironheads with all S&S gears and parts in tranny

garyajaz

ok, ya got my little brain working.
I been threating to run  dry clutch for years.
I have belt drive, aluminum basket, Barnett clutch.
only thing needs oil is clutch basket bearing . could replace with a sealed one.
my tranny is  separately vented. I could seal up holes in trans door, thread and cap top of tranny. then run my loved shock proof.

BUT
clutch been in there 25 years and doing fine.
I change trans/clutch oil once a year.  ho hum.
best leave it alone and check on my rocker arm over oiling thing soon.

HELL has subsided and its been riding daily weather.
next month should cool down enough  to work on stuff.
its still high 90's .
buell getting a workout last few weeks. been riding 100-150 miles every morning.
nice and cool out.
this morn will get out fxdx and take a longer ride.


  I have only broke 2 gear sets and 4th incident main shaft  came out bottom right of case.. 
that was drag racing  on alky with clutch less, wide open , (kill switch) shifts and stuff.
the 3 third big bang was downshifting on a road course down by Monterey, probably rider error.
other than that they just keep going. so yeah, anything wet works...lol

if apart trick is get the + and or- offset bronze shift forks.
set up the throw and engagement.
(easy on the 2nd to first downshifts)

I thinking atf not good cause of made purpose instead of weight.
atf used as a lube and hydraulic fluid.
gear oil for straight cut gears should have some "crush" factor. I forgot the proper name of what oil does under direct squish between teeth.

like mentioned the trannies on stock stuff seem not to care.
all my ramblings geared (*pun*) to a bike that was hammered hard on alky (bike, not me) with bout double the standard horsepower.
your results my vary.

JW, I see your selling your iron.
it is NICE.
if I was a chop guy I would let it live here.

JW113

Gary, yes, it has to go. As do one or two more. NO room in my garage. Which means no more projects until there is room to do them. I'll bet I haven't ridden that chopper more than 100 miles in the last 10 years. It's a very nice piece of garage furniture, but now more room is priority.
:sad: :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: :cry:

-JW
2004 FLHRS   1977 FLH Shovelhead  1992 FLSTC
1945 Indian Chief   1978 XL Bobber