HarleyTechTalk

Quote from: turboprop on April 02, 2018, 06:54:14 AM
I had a brand new Barnett billet cover, but sold it two summers ago when I was laid off. Dam it.

Glad to see your set up you have is working so well.
Best parts, usually equals best results.
As far as the outer, you are fine for now, your top shelf parts you have in there are bad ass, hold easily what you run, you ain't dragging it, so you don't need Straight Cash's set up. Period.
For now, you are done on the primary side.
Time to enjoy the bike for the summer, and enjoy that solid front sprocket that I got bagged on for, that have all kinds of problems and don't work on Twin Cams.....

Just a side note that the MTC lockup will not fit the standard super clutch.
John

I tried to post a pick of my primary side but my file was to large. Here is a YouTube video. I have a super clutch with an MTC lockup electric over air shifter with an adjustable engine kill. Foot or button shift always smooth and easy. Lever pull is about 200 lbs.  https://youtu.be/ELY2zUv20_g

Thanks John

Update:

The Smack-A-Hoe TC124 has been refined a bit. I started out with a Zippers G3 carb with 2ea Thunderjets and a JBV Guppy exhaust pipe. The initial break-in tune was on the safe side with rich jetting and conservative timing tables. Even with a full air cleaner and baffle in the pipe it made over 150hp (SAE) on the break in tune.

The G3 has since been replaced with a Mikuni 48 and the Guppy has been replaced with a Bassani Hi-Output Road Rage. The G3 made great power and the bike actually had decent fuel mileage with it. Unfortunately, there was a lean spot right in the lazy cruise RPM area that could not be tuned out. The Guppy pipe is showing its age. At the same time that the Guppy developed a crack, Bassani offered me one of their new Hi-Output pipes to test.

After chasing the Nirvana tune on the Mik48, it has come full circle and is now not very far off from the factory settings with a 165 main (160 factory) and the clip lowered lowered to the second from bottom position (Center from factory). Only issue is a couple areas of the rpm range are slightly rich.

This winter I am going to pull the pushrods and have a set of tapered solids made. Also thinking about converting from carb to fuel injection and trying one of the new Lectron 52mm carbs.   

Just when you think it couldn't get better. 

Down for end of summer maintenance. Just about everything associated with the front wheel is worn out. She is getting a new radial tire, ceramic bearings from Micro Blue Racing, new friction rings from BrakeTech, and the non ARP hardware will be replaced with 12pt stuff from ARP. I am also going to unlace the hub from the rim, clean and polish everything and then re-true everything.

 

Are those GSXR forks? Year?

Quote from: Deye76 on September 27, 2020, 05:11:21 PM


Are those GSXR forks? Year?

The fork legs are from an '07-'08 GSXR-1000 with 3" extensions at the bottom and Ohlins internals. I made the trees.

From the sticker on the bike lift.....25 years old or better?

Quote from: Hillside Motorcycle on September 28, 2020, 04:29:48 AM
From the sticker on the bike lift.....25 years old or better?

At least. These lifts are like Harleys. The design hasn't changed that much over the years. They get rebuilt and keep on going.

    Those lifts got throw out of here almost 20 years ago, not that they were bad. I just got different lifts that work better for my. If I never tried the new one out I probably would still have the Handys.   

Lets not turn my Smack-A-Hoe thread into a discussion about lifts. If anyone feels the need to discuss Handy lifts there are dozens of threads dedicated to lifts. Please use the search function and go somewhere else.

Are you using narrow bands to tune on this bike? Was that lean spot with the G3 something you could feel on the road?

Quote from: choseneasy on September 28, 2020, 10:55:58 AM
Are you using narrow bands to tune on this bike? Was that lean spot with the G3 something you could feel on the road?

I used to have an AFR gauge that used a narrow band sensor but that has been replaced with a WEGO III that uses a wide band sensor.

The lean spot with the G3 could definitely be felt by seat of the pants and was plainly visible via the little balls of aluminum on the spark plug. Not cool.

Those little balls of death are ugly when you see them.
   Very interesting info- almost everyone would run it fat and call it good. When you are happy I bet your bikes have snap everywhere.

In your post about from August last year, you mentioned the 48mm Mik' stock main jet was a 160, and you ended up at 165, was this a typo as the stock jet is a 190 ?
https://www.mikuni.com/pdf/hsr48x-viewdata.pdf

Interesting they also mention using a fuel pump when over 120hp.

I'm using the same Carb' and I was surprised I had to pull the jetting back to around 175.
I was thinking maybe I was over Carb'ed (120" with Larry's heads) , but maybe not .

Are you still planning on going to EFI ?

Time to enjoy the bike for the summer, and enjoy that solid front sprocket that I got bagged on for, that have all kinds of problems and don't work on Twin Cams.....

I have now tested three different vulcan solid front sprockets & absolutely LOVE the feel/performance they give me. I can't think of a single reason to ever reinstall a compensator setup......

~John

Quote from: speedzter on September 28, 2020, 06:26:32 PM
In your post about from August last year, you mentioned the 48mm Mik' stock main jet was a 160, and you ended up at 165, was this a typo as the stock jet is a 190 ?
https://www.mikuni.com/pdf/hsr48x-viewdata.pdf

Interesting they also mention using a fuel pump when over 120hp.

I'm using the same Carb' and I was surprised I had to pull the jetting back to around 175.
I was thinking maybe I was over Carb'ed (120" with Larry's heads) , but maybe not .

Are you still planning on going to EFI ?

Yes, that was a typo. Currently running a 205 main. Not running a fuel pump. Yet. I do plan to convert to FI. No timeline. Bike runs really good as is.

Quote from: choseneasy on September 28, 2020, 01:29:59 PM
Those little balls of death are ugly when you see them.
   Very interesting info- almost everyone would run it fat and call it good. When you are happy I bet your bikes have snap everywhere.

Agreed. The thing is, that G3 could be made rich everywhere, EXCEPT in the areas used during mild cruising. I am convinced it was this dangerously lean area during cruise, combined with iron cylinders that led to several catastrophic meltdowns.

The AFR gauge is a dual edge sword. Yes, my bikes have plenty of snap everywhere, but I am constantly changing things looking for the perfect tune. WOT is easy, it's the midrange area that is a bit more tricky to get right.

Quote from: jmorton10 on September 29, 2020, 02:02:22 AM
Time to enjoy the bike for the summer, and enjoy that solid front sprocket that I got bagged on for, that have all kinds of problems and don't work on Twin Cams.....

I have now tested three different vulcan solid front sprockets & absolutely LOVE the feel/performance they give me. I can't think of a single reason to ever reinstall a compensator setup......

~John

I agree. The noise from the TC crowd on this forum in regards to compensators is deafening. Same thing, over and over. I dont think any of them know how to use the search function.

FWIW - This bike has been running a solid engine sprocket for a few years. Sky hasn't fallen, my wife hasn't left me, etc. I based my decision to purchase simply on cost. I needed a compensator, didnt want used with unknown history and didnt want to pay new prices. The solid sprocket was dirt cheap so I tried it. Home run. Could not be happier. As a side benefit I get to skip the countless threads on compensators and primary drive fluid. Life is good.

turboprob, Can you expand on the clutch where you mentioned you would be needing a different setup or variable pressure to launch the bike without flipping over

Is this what is meant by "clutch management". I always thought it meant to get enough clutch pressure to hold all the power, not necessarily to have it "slip properly" on launch. But I live under a rock compared to the stuff you are doing it is quite impressive. Thanks for sharing it all.

I see the lockup pressure plates and such but have never used them.


I personally own ductile iron cylinder, carbed, bikes and you got me thinking I ought to run AFR....I've read your posts several times here and Hillside mentioning the ductile iron cylinders being finicky/less forgiving to burn a piston. I think I will run coated pistons skirts too.

I ran a solid front sprocket on a shovelhead and really liked it.

Quote from: 98s1lightning on December 24, 2023, 07:21:39 AMturboprob, Can you expand on the clutch where you mentioned you would be needing a different setup or variable pressure to launch the bike without flipping over

Is this what is meant by "clutch management". I always thought it meant to get enough clutch pressure to hold all the power, not necessarily to have it "slip properly" on launch. But I live under a rock compared to the stuff you are doing it is quite impressive. Thanks for sharing it all.

I see the lockup pressure plates and such but have never used them.


I personally own ductile iron cylinder, carbed, bikes and you got me thinking I ought to run AFR....I've read your posts several times here and Hillside mentioning the ductile iron cylinders being finicky/less forgiving to burn a piston. I think I will run coated pistons skirts too.

I ran a solid front sprocket on a shovelhead and really liked it.

Hard launches are tough to pull off with a high powered engine and the typical 'No-slip under any conditions' type of clutch that the bagger crowd here seems to prefer. Either the rear tire breaks loose or the bike wheelies. The goal is to have consistent hard launches that are right on the edge of the rear tire breaking loose or the front tire lifting. This requires some 'tunable slip' in the clutch system. From a broad view, imagine holding an RPM, say 3k, and letting the clutch snap. Atypical on/off type clutch will either break the rear wheel loose or flip the bike. Now instead imagine a clutch that has so much slip that under the same scenario when the clutch lever is released the clutch barely engages, but as the RPM of the inner hub increases the pressure on the clutch increases. The centrifugal weights on the pressure plate are tunable, as  are the springs and even the cumulative surface area of the pressure plates and steels. The details of how to do all this are typically kept close hold by those that know. Best of luck.

Quote from: turboprop on December 24, 2023, 11:23:20 AM'No-slip under any conditions' type of clutch that the bagger crowd here seems to prefer. 

Who are these people?  Every bike with a hand operated clutch slips the clutch in from a stop.  Mechanical and electronic aids don't change the operation of this.

As a dyno operator. Clutch slippage at 1750 on a brake release pull just mean next pull is started at 2000.  Breaking loose at 4500?  Yes, I address this.