I have asked the questions, answered the questions and now like an attorney leads the witnesses.
The problematics with the internets is a large number of armchair people that answer based on what they have read and now pronounce it all as facts.
.
Yet they never have done much of anything themselves.
I surely wish they would be branded and I have no one in mind here.
This just is my experience dealing with the unknowns.
I'll say no, because the 94 is not injected.
There are also many other changes to the rear of the frame.
The front fender "might" bolt on.
How much time and money do you have for this undertaking?
Anything is possible given the right amount of time and cash.
msg1300837] [attach=0,msg1300837]
I have always told people most this crap will swap from bike to bike without too much problem.
I found a tin set complete bags and all a thousand bucks .'That is cheeper then i can paint this for !
Plus all the old tin stays as it is untouched.
Albeit the span in years here are quite a few (21) and a couple of generations of frame designs different ..
'Guess what?
It has all bolted on
The front inner and outer fairing piece of cake! A small notch needed to be cut for my handlebars. (inner fairing )
The front fender needed bolt holes egg shaped just slightly.
The gas tank needed two rear holes drilled in the frame. The front lower mount works!
Someone makes a fitting so the petcock is installed just like the old, no problem.
Rear fender is the hardest because of the inch and half frame width difference but I wanted to prove it could be done.
It did squeeze in there.
I bought a newer rear frame section (the type that unbolts) and am going to cut my old section off
and do the Fat Bagger trick to this and lower the driver seat about 3 inches.
If I get to it this season or not...
IDK as I am still messing with the engine .
[attach=0,msg1300839]
The Hardest part ?
What to do for the tank dash
I really want to keep the old one..but the fill is under it.
If time was no problem I would invent a way for a trap door.
As it is I think I will install the new dash with the Pop-up door and move the speedo up in the fairing.
An interesting project. What do you do with the ignition switch?
The answer is I have not.
It is on todays project list .
My two options
1,- drill a hole in the new dash.
Or
2- remount it by the fuse panel or on the other side which I am inclined to do as I am always trying to get rid of more wires.
So yes, it bolts on, but no, it does not bolt on.
It looks good, definitely a one off custom by the time you're done.
So yes, it bolts on, but no, it does not bolt on.
It looks good, definitely a one off custom by the time you're done.
[/quote]
Well,-for those that want a jack in the box retrofit kit-no.
But it is almost a bolt on kit.
A couple of holes to drill and tap for the rear of the tank, as I stated.
The gas cap dilemma is the hardest part.
I really want to keep the old dash....but bolting on the new style with gas cap flipper is the most EZ .
Buying the new style rear section is the cats butt!
as it allows EZ modification.
There is no reason to buy Fat Baggers 1200.00 dollar rear section unless your hands have not ever done anything.
I bought one on eBay really cheap .
This will allow with some modification a seat section drop.
Like I said I don't know if I will get to that this year after all the engine mods too.
But it is here when I am ready.
To make these EVOs better than a new bike it is quite doable and a LOT less monies.
The M8 has nothing I desire nor the Twinks .
Quote from: thumper 823 on June 04, 2019, 04:16:34 PM
I have asked the questions, answered the questions and now like an attorney leads the witnesses.
The problematics with the internets is a large number of armchair people that answer based on what they have read and now pronounce it all as facts.
.
Yet they never have done much of anything themselves.
I surely wish they would be branded and I have no one in mind here.
This just is my experience dealing with the unknowns.
this is one of my biggest issues with this page and others like it. Many of the arm chair commandos have been called out and instead of simply adjusting their behaviors they have moved on to other forums where they get to be an expert, at least for a little while.
Your sheet metal retrofit project looks very doable for the average owner to do themself. Have you looked into what it would take to retrofit an ignition switch from a newer bagger?
Quote from: turboprop on June 05, 2019, 09:26:48 AM
Quote from: thumper 823 on June 04, 2019, 04:16:34 PM
I have asked the questions, answered the questions and now like an attorney leads the witnesses.
The problematics with the internets is a large number of armchair people that answer based on what they have read and now pronounce it all as facts.
.
Yet they never have done much of anything themselves.
I surely wish they would be branded and I have no one in mind here.
This just is my experience dealing with the unknowns.
this is one of my biggest issues with this page and others like it. Many of the arm chair commandos have been called out and instead of simply adjusting their behaviors they have moved on to other forums where they get to be an expert, at least for a little while.
Your sheet metal retrofit project looks very doable for the average owner to do themself. Have you looked into what it would take to retrofit an ignition switch from a newer bagger?
Great post-
No I have not looked ,-but I like simple, so i am going to guess by this afternoon I will have just moved the switch.
I am going to guess the newer baggers move the switch up into the dash/ handlebar area?
That to me is just more wires ..
I would guess next Winter I am going to strip every wire out and do it simply.
HD has wires for wires and relays for too much crap.
My answer is
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Quote from: thumper 823 on June 05, 2019, 03:01:30 PM
My answer is
[attach=0,msg1300955]
Nice, I like it, it's just a dash, after all. I wasn't sure if there was enough room under there for the switch, nice to know it will work. Keeps the RoadKing vibe going. You're going to confuse a lot of people.
Thanx -
I looked all over for a plastic or CF version.
This thing must weigh ten pounds!
As they say, take care of the ounces and the pounds take care of themselves.
I am always looking for a way to shave here and there.
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Made a spacer for underneath, lots of room
So far the hardest part is moving the speedo head up to the fairing.
Serious.
There is no hole in the inner fairing where I want it, or the right size.
I am not a music guy on the road (seems silly to me ) -so it is going where the POS radio hole is.
Pix to follow.
Swapping to a newer style would be more EZ,.... but the bike loses its mileage record.
I know some new speedos are programmable - Don't want to do that.
Doing it this way, - when the "Pickers" come to buy this,
the original tin and everything is here to convert it back. LOL
There will be no squabble over mileage.
No music? Heresy!!
I love music -but on a bike there is more than enough going on.
I see the Neophytes blasting through the intersections oblivious to being killed every day.
I have a new hardest part-being I carry a trunk the luggage rack will not fit until I put on the new rear frame section.
I am going to say that will be next winter.
So now the old will not fit and the new will not fit..LOl
So I am heating and bending convincing the old one to do it.
I should have just fabricated a new one , but I am all most there.
Pix to follow.
I will have to say this is the hardest part. And it is not very.
To my main point, I still say most HD parts ( tin work) will fit in the same family of Harley parts through the years.
The fairing was EZ
Gas tank, front fender EZ
Rear fender a real squeeze.
Maybe the saddlebags will be the dilemma ..
So far so good.
[attach=0] [attach=0]
Quote from: thumper 823 on June 28, 2019, 02:13:14 PM
[attach=0,msg1304445] [attach=0,msg1304445]
Invalid pictures
For whatever reason, I cannot get the pix to upload anymore.
I will gladly txt you or anyone some.
The conversion is pretty much done -not too big of a deal.
I doubt any two people will do it exactly the same as there are options to consider.
As for me , I elected to use the old tail light and signal assembly-just to throw another curveball as to what is being looked at.
It was harder as I had to make a filler for the back of the tail light housing, as the rear fender radius is not quite the same.
I mixed some epoxy ( JB welds) put some blue paint tape dwn so it would not stick the rear fender and filled in the gap.
Basically, it looks like a thicker gasket now, pretty much unnoticeable.
(of course, the tape was removed after and just the spacer used made out of Jb weld.
lots of little nuances.
Most of the transplant is just drilling a couple of holes here and there and what options one wants to use for gauges.
Some wiring.
I filled in the radio hole in the fairing and mounted the original speedo head there. Going with an aftermarket assembly would have been more EZ.
All and all it becomes pretty self-evident and explanatory what needs to be done where.
Even the saddlebags fit right up on the old gear.
Quite surprising really.
On a scale of one to ten, I would rate the job about a three for difficulty.
I say this if you are the type familiar with the use of tools.
If you have ever drilled, sawed, bent, built, made, or constructed most anything, this is a piece of cake.
What was the most difficult part you ask? (you did not, my humor)
LOL
Adding a little bracket to the rear fender that sticks dwn to the center saddle bag support below the tail light.
Not very hard to do.
[attach=1]
You got Time, Money, and a Welder ANYTHING will work out. I've been involved with both success and failure. What I have found is PATIENTS and thinking outside the BOX will get you where you want to be. Or, damn close!
In this case, no welding required,
A few holes need to be drilled,
a couple of them tapped.
A lot of little details, nothing that is much of a challenge.
The HARDEST part? Making the tail light fit.
Next in line ? perhaps cutting the side covers for more clearance near the rear guard.
That turned out nice!
Thanx !
Not too bad and a heck of a lot cheaper than a paint job!
Interesting project, but I would not call it a "bolt on". My definition of bolt on is if the part fits with no mods, so I guess it depends how far you want to stretch the definition. Actually surprised much of it fit as easily as it did.
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Thumper? Did you work-in the newer (wider) rear section last winter?
Curious how that went, if done but I'm pretty confident like you, it would be a no-brainer to install.
Good of you to offer thumper but thanks, no. I was just curious.
I have an 07 FLHX and always thought the stock real sneaker was too narrow. I do like the look of the 200 sneaker out back but think the Aftermarkets kits are too expensive for this kid. So after reading your thread and following your lead, I made a high level pass to see what would be involved. I seen a number of "supporting role" parts that would need to be acquired around the fender supports/fender/wheel/axle/etc/etc/etc and simply wrote off any further investigation.
I've lived with the 150 this long, what's another.....?
I do like what you've done to your King though! If ya don't try....
I used the same mounts for the bags and trunk that I had on B4 the change
The trunk-mount needed some "adjustment" but the bags,- again were just bolt-on like most everything else.
When I say bolt-on "some slight adjustments were neccessery.
Not hard at all, unless this is your first adventure
Nicely done project.
Thanx!
Thanx to all who appreciate a little project.
I was simpler than painting.
Next little project.... (in addition to the tin work)
Anyone else do this ?-
The Next mod here will be floorboards and rear master cylinder
from the newer generation too.
Fat Boy parts and such bolt-on from the outside rather than from underneath which are a PIA!
The Master cylinder underneath with the remote reservoir is not user friendly!
Every time i need to drop the exhaust or cam cover (which is way too often) the right side floorboard
needs to be removed.
If you have ever had to do this you feel my pain.
I am just trying to make things simpler.