Considering both, looking for feed back
S&S quickies for me.
I like my Fuel Moto's that are made by Smith Bros
I like them all including bender cycle and smith,But i will not install feuling fast install pushrods.
I used the Screamin Eagle adjustable pushrods and they work fine. Just make sure you get ones that are designed to go in without taking the top end off. Not all adjustable ones are and I almost bought the wrong ones when I changed cams.
sounds funny but I used the 3/8 Andrew adjustables , I think they were for sportster , but I could get them in without taking heads off , just lifter blocks put in with blocks at same time , since 3/8 they had no issue hitting the pushrod tube , and you wouldn't need to adjust much so strength was better,
The late tapered SE work great but I will take the S&S quickies every time, great pushrods with easy install and have never had an issue with them.
Quote from: HighLiner on January 22, 2019, 05:07:41 PM
I like my Fuel Moto's that are made by Smith Bros
Those things are beasts (I've got em in my current bike) but damn they're a pain the first time you use them. Once you get em figured out they aren't bad but initially they'll make you pull your hair out.
Quote from: slodsm on January 23, 2019, 02:51:48 PM
Quote from: HighLiner on January 22, 2019, 05:07:41 PM
I like my Fuel Moto's that are made by Smith Bros
Those things are beasts (I've got em in my current bike) but damn they're a pain the first time you use them. Once you get em figured out they aren't bad but initially they'll make you pull your hair out.
Their instructions shed the light needed.
https://docs.wixstatic.com/ugd/8060ba_646b683a3ffc4f74a05d8a7a02f0d230.pdf
SE in mine...got em off someone on ebay that didnt use em in thier build...$75
Thanks for the Info guys, I appreciate it.
So none of you guys just run non adjustable rods?
Quote from: Thermodyne on January 25, 2019, 01:09:43 PM
So none of you guys just run non adjustable rods?
=raises hand= :baby:
Quote from: Thermodyne on January 25, 2019, 01:09:43 PM
So none of you guys just run non adjustable rods?
If I still had a stock cam or one that would with the stock push rods I would use them. If I have to buy new ones, then I would get adjustables as they are easier to remove.
Quote from: Durwood on January 22, 2019, 11:50:22 AM
S&S quickies for me.
Durwood your choice is obviously not because you like the colour of one box over another so what's your reason? Stiffer? Thinner? Lighter? Better threads? I've always used the SE's mainly because they are easy to get locally, I've not had one come loose or broke a nut, interested to learn here.
Quote from: Thermodyne on January 25, 2019, 01:09:43 PM
So none of you guys just run non adjustable rods?
Not me, I use Smith Brothers but if I only had the choice between S&S Quickie or SE Tapered, I'd use the SE Tapered :SM:
i have heard that the s&s quickies have a tendancy to flex at higher rpm. i personally have used smith brothers and fuel moto. either one is good. had no problems
Quote from: Hilly13 on January 25, 2019, 06:10:59 PM
Quote from: Durwood on January 22, 2019, 11:50:22 AM
S&S quickies for me.
Durwood your choice is obviously not because you like the colour of one box over another so what's your reason? Stiffer? Thinner? Lighter? Better threads? I've always used the SE's mainly because they are easy to get locally, I've not had one come loose or broke a nut, interested to learn here.
There are a few reasons. First is that the S&S Quickies are straight. Next time you install an SE push rod, spin it with your fingers and you will see them wobble due to the hole not being drilled correctly. (I have a video of this somewhere on my phone).
The wobble, along with the overall thickness of the SE's are what promote push rod rub, and necessitate the use of machined upper push rod tubes.
Lastly is quickness of installation, IE (Quickies) Pardon the pun.
The majority of the adjuster on S&S Quickies expands and contracts simply by pushing or pulling it in and out of the tube making removal and installation less time consuming and easier on the finger tips. You don't have to thread the first couple of inches or so of the adjuster.
I also like the packaging. :teeth:
klammer76,
RE: longest length p-rod possible = less thread exposed.
I hope that you see this as related:
Some yrs ago, I had a 117" TC that had +.200' long cylinders. I used some sort of evo p-rods that were not "quickie". I had to remove the tappet covers and slide the covers up over the pushrods to get them into place. It's not that much extra work.
Anyone know the max compressed length that would go into place in this manner [with stock length cylinders]?
Dave
S&S Quickiees for me.
MIKE
Quote from: FSG on January 25, 2019, 06:26:33 PM
Quote from: Thermodyne on January 25, 2019, 01:09:43 PM
So none of you guys just run non adjustable rods?
Not me, I use Smith Brothers but if I only had the choice between S&S Quickie or SE Tapered, I'd use the SE Tapered :SM:
If you check the cam base, most will run with one of the SE tapered rod sets. Past that, just use an adjustable rod to measure what's needed and custom rods are a week away. In any length you want, for less than a set of adjustable rods.
Quote from: Durwood on January 26, 2019, 06:21:32 AM
There are a few reasons. First is that the S&S Quickies are straight. Next time you install an SE push rod, spin it with your fingers and you will see them wobble due to the hole not being drilled correctly. (I have a video of this somewhere on my phone).
The wobble, along with the overall thickness of the SE's are what promote push rod rub, and necessitate the use of machined upper push rod tubes.
Quote from: Thermodyne on January 26, 2019, 08:17:20 AM
If you check the cam base, most will run with one of the SE tapered rod sets. Past that, just use an adjustable rod to measure what's needed and custom rods are a week away. In any length you want, for less than a set of adjustable rods.
:agree:
I'm a fan of one piece pushrods. I often hear stories of "I gave them half a turn & everything quieted down". Not denying the result, but I doubt it's because of the .2 ounces of extra spring preload. I have had the same experience with SE adjustables regarding the wobble. I spun one in my lathe & was shocked at how much. My theory is maybe that half a turn found the "sweet spot" where they were actually straight? Corrected bad geometry? Hey, it's my theory & I'm sticking to it :hyst:
So I did as above & used the SE's as gauges to find the length I needed. Then I bought a set of 12" digital calipers https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0031QS5ZC/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0031QS5ZC/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and measured the results. I found that one of the SE "perfect fit" sets was just right. The other option.... Smith's one piece are an excellent choice also.
The straightness, reliability, lighter weight.... all good things :up:
Quote from: Durwood on January 26, 2019, 06:21:32 AM
Quote from: Hilly13 on January 25, 2019, 06:10:59 PM
Quote from: Durwood on January 22, 2019, 11:50:22 AM
S&S quickies for me.
Durwood your choice is obviously not because you like the colour of one box over another so what's your reason? Stiffer? Thinner? Lighter? Better threads? I've always used the SE's mainly because they are easy to get locally, I've not had one come loose or broke a nut, interested to learn here.
There are a few reasons. First is that the S&S Quickies are straight. Next time you install an SE push rod, spin it with your fingers and you will see them wobble due to the hole not being drilled correctly. (I have a video of this somewhere on my phone).
The wobble, along with the overall thickness of the SE's are what promote push rod rub, and necessitate the use of machined upper push rod tubes.
Lastly is quickness of installation, IE (Quickies) Pardon the pun.
The majority of the adjuster on S&S Quickies expands and contracts simply by pushing or pulling it in and out of the tube making removal and installation less time consuming and easier on the finger tips. You don't have to thread the first couple of inches or so of the adjuster.
I also like the packaging. :teeth:
Haha, thanks mate, appreciate the reply :up:
Quote from: Durwood on January 26, 2019, 06:21:32 AM
Next time you install an SE push rod, spin it with your fingers and you will see them wobble due to the hole not being drilled correctly. (I have a video of this somewhere on my phone).
The wobble, along with the overall thickness of the SE's are what promote push rod rub, and necessitate the use of machined upper push rod tubes.
Yep, had 4 out of 8 with the wobble, Smith Bros. from now on.
Rick
Quote from: Eglider05 on January 26, 2019, 06:52:57 PM
Quote from: Durwood on January 26, 2019, 06:21:32 AM
Next time you install an SE push rod, spin it with your fingers and you will see them wobble due to the hole not being drilled correctly. (I have a video of this somewhere on my phone).
The wobble, along with the overall thickness of the SE's are what promote push rod rub, and necessitate the use of machined upper push rod tubes.
Yep, had 4 out of 8 with the wobble, Smith Bros. from now on.
Rick
:up:
After doing a few builds with adjustables, my preference is to order Smith push rods of the proper length. It takes a couple more days to order them and for them to show up, but one less thing to worry about.
Why not S&S "Time Savers"
Quote from: Thermodyne on January 26, 2019, 08:17:20 AM
If you check the cam base, most will run with one of the SE tapered rod sets. Past that, just use an adjustable rod to measure what's needed and custom rods are a week away. In any length you want, for less than a set of adjustable rods.
For someone who doesn't have an adjustable rod laying around, is there another way to measure the custom rod length? Or should I order a set that I plan on returning?
Quote from: chris.m.j on February 04, 2019, 06:00:24 PM
For someone who doesn't have an adjustable rod laying around, is there another way to measure the custom rod length? Or should I order a set that I plan on returning?
All you need is a stock push rod, cut off out about one inch closer to one end, a 6" piece of 1/4 " threaded rod and a couple nuts. spin the two nuts onto the threaded rod and slip the two pieces of push rod over it. You now have an adjustable push rod. Slip it in place, adjust the nuts out until you get to where you want the length to be and measure the distance between the nuts. spin the nuts back so you can get the push rod out, spin the nuts bacj to the dimension you measured earlier, then measure the total length of the push rod.
It helps if you have a dial or digital calipers. I bought a cheap 12" digital from Harbor Freight.
Homemade Tools / Pushrod Length Checker (http://harleytechtalk.com/htt/index.php/topic,61486.0.html)
Quote from: FSG on February 04, 2019, 10:39:31 PM
Homemade Tools / Pushrod Length Checker (http://harleytechtalk.com/htt/index.php/topic,61486.0.html)
Gary are the dimensions on the pics the updated ones?
I run SE adjustables until I get everything happy, then measure and replace with SE Perfect Fit solids