HarleyTechTalk

I'm looking at potential ways to add/modify crankcase ventilation on my Twin-Cam ('00 Softail). Anyone with experience & photos of what you've done please share...

Thanks,

K.

Spend some time searching this site with key words. Restrict it to general and twin cam for best results.  Therew's tons of threads and pics to be had.

Quote from: kd on January 21, 2019, 07:06:44 AM
Spend some time searching this site with key words. Restrict it to general and twin cam for best results.  Therew's tons of threads and pics to be had.

I'm sure there are those whose searching ability is more savvy than mine... With that said, I'm not looking for information on the factory breather through the head and into the air cleaner information, but rather adding -AN fittings to the cam cover, crankcase, etc...

K.

Have you checked to see how much pressure you are getting?

Quote from: 1FSTRK on January 21, 2019, 10:48:47 AM
Have you checked to see how much pressure you are getting?

I have not, trying to get ahead of the game should I need to have something in mind. Being boosted, I'm sure it can't hurt...

K.

You can vent each rocker box with a right angle fitting, and a pvc valve.
John

So on my 116" 01 softail , I have the R&R vented cam plate setup , it works I have it going to a catch can seup not much comes out, I have crankvents on the heads works well , and have the S&S valve covers, I tried putting a crank vent on the cam chest vent line also , but not a good idea it ended up sucking oil out of bottom end, when I run the cam chest vent line into a can works fine but when you add the one way vavle it causes issues , like the S&S crank valve thing they had would cause sumping.  the R&r cam plate setup with venting is the best setup you can buy the inner plate bolts to all holes on the case so much more suport , then they have a labyrinth for venting from the outer cover nice setup , and even if you block the vent the extra camchest stability is nice.

here is the link to the 2 pice cam plate setup

http://rrcycles.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=9_14_19&products_id=22
       

What are you looking to correct or gain from this?

You need to be careful as to what you do as far as case pressures go.  There are bearings in the engine that rely on the pressure pulses to carry oil through them.  And the oil pump scavenges with the help of these pulses too.  Positive crankcase ventilation is a non starter on a Harley vtwin.  So forget about automotive PCV valves and such.

The most common issue is oil carry over as the engine vents through the breather.  The fixes on that are the updated breather valves and drilling the drains in the rocker supports.   If its a high mileage motor, or one that gets run hard regularly, you can redirect those vents down under the frame with some hose and a little breather modification. 

I know its for a bagger, but i ran this on mine. Maybe it gives you an idea.
http://www.feulingparts.com/products/Oil%20Tank%20Breathers/Oil%20Tank%20Breather%20Kit/308

If i remember you have the head breather bolts y'd off and run externally, correct? Maybe just a larger diameter?
I know when i ran the out of box HPI on mine, i had to significantly drill out and resize until
it was happy.

Or like John said.

Doesn't look like that tank is available any longer

My last effort

[attach=0,msg1278164]

Tried to post a pic with the cover off, got some garbage message about failing security checks

ya like I said no crank vents on all 3 spots for sure it will sump, just like the S&S reed valve does , but running the crank vents on the heads (same as having umbrella valves) works fine , I vent the cam plate to a can it doesn't collect much , but R&R states it helps aeration , I also use a 3 stage oil pump .

I am using the S&S reed valve behind the cam plate. Only works on early bikes with original oil pump. Have only had oil in filter 2 times in 12 years. Some like it some say it is BS. Works for me.

I like to drill the supports and then vent them to under the frame, just to avoid the buildup on the pistons.  Drilling the supports, stops or greatly reduces the amout of liquid oil that gets cooked on the piston, and venting away from the breather keeps the fumes from being sucked in.  EPA doesn't like it, but then they ain't the ones who have to go in and scrape the oil coke off the pistons. 

I also like to run clear tubing, so I can see what's being pushed out. 

This is on my 110 with about 4500 on the clock. 
From the side: https://imgur.com/V3F5jRz
From the seat: https://imgur.com/P2bmXrI
And setting up the backing plate: https://imgur.com/yb9396Y
https://imgur.com/q5h7wsI
The original breather ports in the plate are closed with epoxy.  And then stand offs are drilled to accept barbs.  The first plates I did, got threaded barbs, but the castings tend to be so thin that they lack sufficient threads to make a secure hold.  So I switched to barbed fittings and epoxy.