It's my son's bike. 2011 streetglide 50k miles, needs a belt has stripped teeth.
What's the best way to go ?
At 50k should he do the pulleys too ? Would a chain conversion be cheaper than buying both pulleys ?
Should he consider a different front pulley if he has to buy one ?
1 tooth smaller for more low end ? Would he need a smaller belt if he goes with the smaller pulley ?
TIA for any info
Forgot to ask. Is there a less expensive belt that's as good as OEM ? $290 @ local dealer.
What kind of build is on the motor?
When changing a belt, changing pulleys is often a good idea, a close inspection will help that decision.
Quote from: Hossamania on June 15, 2020, 07:46:20 AM
What kind of build is on the motor?
When changing a belt, changing pulleys is often a good idea, a close inspection will help that decision.
Nothing special on a build. Basically a stage 1 96"
Quote from: rking1550 on June 15, 2020, 07:34:47 AM
At 50k should he do the pulleys too ?
At 50K, On my own bike, inspect and
MORE than likely reuse the pulleys.
QuoteWould a chain conversion be cheaper than buying both pulleys ?
Highly doubtful! Most of the cushdrive chain conversion setups are $700 ish to $1000 ish, not including the $150 ish more or less for a good chain.
And the front sprocket.
And then there is the issue of the stock cam adjuster setup doesn't have enough travel to adjust the chain.
So add a modified swingarm in there.
That's a big rabbit hole, that more than likely isn't necessary for his situation.
QuoteShould he consider a different front pulley if he has to buy one ?
1 tooth smaller for more low end ? Would he need a smaller belt if he goes with the smaller pulley ?
He could. Smaller belt more than likely, if one available. Or else the same swingarm issue.
Quote from: rking1550 on June 15, 2020, 07:37:16 AM
Forgot to ask. Is there a less expensive belt that's as good as OEM ? $290 @ local dealer.
S&S markets ones made by Gates. List is $245 ish. Less through the right people.
But I don't think they have a 24 MM wide one. :crook:
I have one to put on a bike of mine but haven't yet. So can't report any evaluation.
Drag also markets ones that are claimed made in USA, $150 ish list.
No experience with those yet.
Most economical complete kit I came across: Vulcan Eng Chain Drive (https://secure.vulcanworks.net/store/Chain-Conversion-Kit-for-Cush-Drive-Hub-2009-Up-Harley-Touring-Bagger-Dresser.html)
Unless he has a super hot build I would run the stock belt. I question if he has kept the belt adjusted properly. A bit tight is better than a bit loose. Look the pulleys over and any doubt, replace them. Keep in mind they will be on the bike for many more miles.
Run the Harley belt. Not worth the few bucks you save to find out.
Quote from: PoorUB on June 15, 2020, 11:40:17 AM
Unless he has a super hot build I would run the stock belt. I question if he has kept the belt adjusted properly. A bit tight is better than a bit loose. Look the pulleys over and any doubt, replace them. Keep in mind they will be on the bike for many more miles.
Run the Harley belt. Not worth the few bucks you save to find out.
No super hot build. Stage 1 96" . He bought the bike with 48~k he's put about 2k on it. So belt tension history is unknown.
If we do a smaller trans pulley. Should we do 1 or 2 teeth less ? And then what size belt ?
Quote from: PoorUB on June 15, 2020, 11:40:17 AM
Unless he has a super hot build I would run the stock belt. I question if he has kept the belt adjusted properly. A bit tight is better than a bit loose. Look the pulleys over and any doubt, replace them. Keep in mind they will be on the bike for many more miles.
Run the Harley belt. Not worth the few bucks you save to find out.
:agree: You can go 1 tooth without a belt change or having to lengthen the axle slot. You likely will have to weld 1/4 " key stock on the swingarm for the adjuster cams.
:agree:
What he said!
Quote from: kd on June 15, 2020, 12:40:24 PM
Quote from: PoorUB on June 15, 2020, 11:40:17 AM
Unless he has a super hot build I would run the stock belt. I question if he has kept the belt adjusted properly. A bit tight is better than a bit loose. Look the pulleys over and any doubt, replace them. Keep in mind they will be on the bike for many more miles.
Run the Harley belt. Not worth the few bucks you save to find out.
:agree: You can go 1 tooth without a belt change or having to lengthen the axle slot. You likely will have to weld 1/4 " key stock on the swingarm for the adjuster cams.
We have to buy a belt no matter what we decide on the pulley, the belt is missing about 10 teeth, haven't seen it in person yet but he sent me a short video. A belt is definite.
So its probably easier/better to buy the shorter belt and make no swing arm or tensioner modifications.
Taking teeth out of the pulley changes your speedometer. If you want the speedo to read correctly your gonna have to shell out for 1 of those recalculate modules.
MIKE
Quote from: MikeL on June 15, 2020, 03:29:55 PM
Taking teeth out of the pulley changes your speedometer. If you want the speedo to read correctly your gonna have to shell out for 1 of those recalculate modules.
MIKE
He has power commander V. Is that capable of correcting the speedo?
Quote from: rking1550 on June 15, 2020, 03:34:52 PM
He has power commander V. Is that capable of correcting the speedo?
No
If you are set on changing the belt size do whatever you can to use a Harley belt. There are plenty of horror stories about aftermarket belts and lots of good stories about OEM. Definitely the strongest. Search the site for threads on belt and gearing change. Do you want to re-learn that lesson and find yourself stranded somewhere and changing a belt again?
Quote from: rking1550 on June 15, 2020, 01:58:06 PM
We have to buy a belt no matter what we decide on the pulley, the belt is missing about 10 teeth, haven't seen it in person yet but he sent me a short video. A belt is definite.
So its probably easier/better to buy the shorter belt and make no swing arm or tensioner modifications.
I agree on the OEM belt thing everyone else is saying.
I don't know if you'll be able to find a OEM to accommodate the setup without fiddling with the swingarm.
The aftermarket catalogs list the original belt size as 24 MM but the Harley parts say 1 inch, 140 tooth.
I got no caliper here to measure mine at house.
So there is a 1" 137 tooth that was used on the 07-08 FLH's.
But that might swing to far the other way and be to tight with only 1 tooth decrease on the trans pulley.
And regardless there is the speedometer issue.
There is also a SpeedoHealer, https://www.healtech-electronics.com/ , to adjust the speedometer error. Not sure if they have one to fit the 2011, but I would call and find out. Otherwise it is a tuner and/or tuner license and maybe a trip on a dyno, gets expensive!
Rather than a pulley change, I would go for cams and a tune, and if really feeling adventurous, a bore to 107, cams, tune, maybe heads.
Or, just put a belt on and run it.
24 mm is just shy of 1 inch. 1.4 mm shy. 1.6 mm is 1/16 inch. So the belt is just short of 1/16 inch narrower. Now what impact that may have is outside my realm. But until I learned more, I'd hesitate to replace a 1 inch with 24 mm.
Speaking from experience when I broke a belt @ around 45K and dealer told me to replace the pullies I declined. 10K later I broke another belt and then replaced both pullies. Tranny pully showed considerable wear. If it were me and not knowing the history of the bike weather its mostly easy hiway miles are a hard 48K I'd change them. Nothing worse then paying twice.
Thanks guys. a lot of good info here. Still not sure which way he'll go. But I'm thinking the stock belt & pulleys
Might be his best bet. Money is tight. While I know he'd like to upgrade that'll cost more than he could afford right now.
if the bike is basically stock then a belt should be just fine. I run a 130hp 124" with a belt and I haven't had a problem. I did however replace the belt when I did the 124 because it had about 65k miles on it. the belt still looked good but I wanted the a insurance and since it was already apart. I got belt that had BDL logos all over it but it was made by Gates from JP cycles for $150. I would inspect the pulley's to make sure there isn't a missing or damaged tooth or possibly a stone that may have gotten lodged in there and damaged the belt
Replace the belt and pulleys if needed,they will serve you well,even with a performance change stay with the belt,
I just replaced my belt when I had all my leaks repaired, it had 65,000 on the belt (a sidecar belt), it had picked up a rock (no hole) and ruined the pulleys, gouged a line around the entire belt, who knows how long it ran like that. My indie had a low mileage rear pulley for $100, paid full retail for the front pulley.
I'm pretty sure the pulleys were original, 115,000 miles on them. Of all the extra parts I have saved (including this damaged belt, just in case, you know...), I tossed the pulleys right in the garbage. I got my money's worth out of them.
Ok. Went with the stock belt and pulleys.
I know a service manual would be best, but dont have one at this
time. So hopefully the fine people here can give me the needed info.
Do I need to totally remove the swing arm or can I sneak the belt thru with only pushing the the swing arm shaft part way out ?
Also torque specs for going back together would be great.
Any other tips, tricks or suggestions will be appreciated..
TIA
A lot of guys have just slipped them through, just be careful not to kink or scar the belt.