The famous Harley klunk is what I'm referring too when shifting into first.
I've tried waiting for a few seconds, clutch in and out a couple of times, heaver oil in chain case, for whatever reason and still I get the KLUNK.
I know Harley's are noted for it but what the heck. I can't see hammering the gears if I can help it.
Probably asking the age old question............can the "klunk" be soften or eliminated?
Just wondering is all. :nix:
TIA...........Panzer
I'm not convinced that the clunk hurts anything.
Maybe think of it as an "audible shift indicator"?
I'm with Panzer, I know the Klunk is normal, but it makes me feel like that person grinding 1st gear in a standard shift car. I've tried a lot of things to soften or stop it, and the best result is when I pull the clutch, put some upward (like going to 2nd) pressure on the lever for about 2 seconds, then easing the lever into 1st. Sometimes it just silently slips into gear, sometimes it klunks. Ah, well, it keeps me entertained at stop lights (yes, I'm a neutral at stop person).
I feel the same way, I alway figured it was me, I did the same thing Panz, try pulling the clutch in, wait, not a difference at all. Even some newer bikes I've test rode, (2011 Ultra) :hyst: did the same thing
Quote from: Xyzzy on April 26, 2018, 08:12:45 PM
I'm not convinced that the clunk hurts anything.
Maybe think of it as an "audible shift indicator"?
:up: there ya go, so you know your in first, you can hear it over the exhaust :hyst:
My '12 will klunk into first most of the time. Sometimes it doesn't and is smoothe as butter. I just go with it and bang that thing into gear.
There are several things you can try, like adjusting the clutch, different fluid, some more expensive fixes like new clutch plates, and some others that people have done that I can't think of right now.
A search here will lead you to some more posts about dealing with it.
Thanks gents for the feed.
Sitting along side a guy on a crouch rocket at a red light and you put it in first gear and it goes KLUNK, the guy just kinda looks at ya.
I just smile. :SM:
Yup, just look over and say that shifted a lot quieter than normal!
Quote from: Hossamania on April 27, 2018, 08:14:41 AM
Yup, just look over and say that shifted a lot quieter than normal!
:up: :SM: that'll give the rocket rider something to talk about for a month :hyst:
Panzer, like you I get the klunk, you can make it less of a thump using lighter primary GB oil. when I could get it Redline MT worked well in my sporty . but has become hard to find in Australia. so I'm using BelRay sports seems ok. too thick loads clutch up causes plates to stick more. if tuning heavier oil. when you first start when motor cold. pull clutch hold it in full while you warm motor ( hold at 1,500 rev ) the plates free up a bit less of a clunk. heavy pressure plate cause it more too.
Mobil 1 syn ATF with 4 ounces of Lubeguard highly friction modified ATF supplement. :up:
My 2000 xl been doing it for 18 yrs now . Changed all oils last wk. trans nice and clean with about 4 k on it .. So it can't be doing much of anything but pisses me off. Something H-D should of took care of yrs ago. I get a nice normal klunk if i can get the bike to roll some , even a push with my foot just get the wheel to roll helps & with a low idle . A slight incline it's smooth as butter.
Other trick i use is drop it in gear when cranking to start , rolls right in , if bike has been warmed up i just take off.
Mines real horrible first time away after starting it. I try and ease that by clearing the clutch prior to starting the motor – in gear and push forward/back with the clutch pulled until I know it has slipped a little. But it's still horrible. I worry about gradually chewing out all the splines on the transmission in there.
Don't be ashamed of the clunk!
This is an antiquated mechanical device, not an electric toothbrush!
:hug:
Sounds like you have a lot of clutch drag. Heavy oil does it no good . put some H-D trans oil in it , adj. the clutch , chain , belt ride off. You didn't say yr/ miles on the bike.
Might be warped plates and only R&R will fix that issue. Or like i mentioned drop it in gear as the starter is cranking Eng. No klunk ride off slow til it warms up a bit.
hogpipes1, she's an 07' 1200.
I try to start it in first eliminating the klunk.
Kinda scary as it wants to leap forward about 6 inches, causing a little pucker.
I believe that this is the real case for........"they all do that".
Klunk or not, the weather is great........lets ride.
Jump ahead tells it all . Clutch is not disengaged. Point the finger at the heavy oil (drag) to start with.
Quote from: hogpipes1 on May 03, 2018, 10:32:29 AM
Jump ahead tells it all . Clutch is not disengaged. Point the finger at the heavy oil (drag) to start with.
I'm not a big fan of starting it in gear, especially when cold, just for that reason. Now you're putting all that extra drag on the starter, the cold oil, clutch plates trying to separate, and the gears and cold oil in the transmission because of the drag. It's fine when hot, such as stalling it in traffic and have to get going, the oil is thinner and the clutch plates can release much easier. Of course, if it is still jumping quite a bit when hot, that is another sign that the clutch needs adjusting.
I always have one of the brakes set when starting, as I may have started it in gear a time or two over the years, thinking it was in neutral.
Quote from: Hossamania on May 03, 2018, 01:15:26 PM
Quote from: hogpipes1 on May 03, 2018, 10:32:29 AM
Jump ahead tells it all . Clutch is not disengaged. Point the finger at the heavy oil (drag) to start with.
I'm not a big fan of starting it in gear, especially when cold, just for that reason. Now you're putting all that extra drag on the starter, the cold oil, clutch plates trying to separate, and the gears and cold oil in the transmission because of the drag. It's fine when hot, such as stalling it in traffic and have to get going, the oil is thinner and the clutch plates can release much easier. Of course, if it is still jumping quite a bit when hot, that is another sign that the clutch needs adjusting.
I always have one of the brakes set when starting, as I may have started it in gear a time or two over the years, thinking it was in neutral.
:embarrassed: ya - never done that before
Agree with you all on starting cold, it really pulls the starter down.
No heavy oil used, using Mobil 1.
So damn if you do and damned if you don't.
Leap or klunk when cold, your call. :nix:
"They all do that".
What's heavy oil? ? When i say drop it in gear, it's while the eng is a 1/2 sec from runing, not in gear cranking , for sure it's too much a load on it all. So far you haven't said you done any adj to try and fix the issue? " They all don't do it that way" .Those are the ones that have not been looked at close enough over the yrs.. If you were buying it new from dealer, and it jumped in gear you would roll it back inside and tell them to fix it.. I would pull the trans plug , refill with any 10/40 put 50 miles on it and see how it works the next day when cold.
Get some wrench time on this bike and see how it all goes then.
Quote from: Panzer on May 04, 2018, 05:43:35 AM
Agree with you all on starting cold, it really pulls the starter down.
No heavy oil used, using Mobil 1.
So damn if you do and damned if you don't.
Leap or klunk when cold, your call. :nix:
"They all do that".
Or you can try Mobil 1 syn ATF with 4 ounces of Lubeguard highly friction modified ATF supplement. :wink:
Ha, Lubeguard, expensive, yes? :emoGroan:
Takes a little of practice, but if you are sitting at idle you can raise the rpm up minutely, and I mean minutely and click into gear like a rice burner. Or you can rack the throttle up to a high rpm and when the rpm's are coming down you can shift without the clunk. Takes practice though.
Quote from: Panzer on May 04, 2018, 07:11:44 PM
Ha, Lubeguard, expensive, yes? :emoGroan:
https://www.amazon.com/Lubegard-61910-Friction-Modified-Supplement/dp/B0002KKTTU (https://www.amazon.com/Lubegard-61910-Friction-Modified-Supplement/dp/B0002KKTTU) Worth every penny :)
Quote from: Rockout Rocker Products on May 04, 2018, 07:56:52 PM
Quote from: Panzer on May 04, 2018, 07:11:44 PM
Ha, Lubeguard, expensive, yes? :emoGroan:
https://www.amazon.com/Lubegard-61910-Friction-Modified-Supplement/dp/B0002KKTTU (https://www.amazon.com/Lubegard-61910-Friction-Modified-Supplement/dp/B0002KKTTU) Worth every penny :)
If you change your primary fluid once a year, that is two and a half years worth. Less than $5 a year.
https://i.imgur.com/QNnoQu2.png
https://i.imgur.com/0nUcPss.png
https://i.imgur.com/bpRHqoF.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/VdUgDnI.png
The images FSG posted show the purpose of the Lubeguard. When I was researching ways to get rid of the KLUNK, I read a lot of car forums about ATF. They add the Lubeguard to the Mobil 1 because without it it shifts TOO hard and is "grabby". It's the LG that helps separate the plates in the HD clutch & reduce drag.
On a 900 pound bagger at 109/119 I have zero slip. :up:
Checking around in my stash of good stuff i have a bottle of Amsoil slip lock differential additive.. used for my trk posy .( it worked) takes care of chatter, sticky plates, it's a friction modifier. couple oz. left thinking it would go good in the xl for the klunk. see any neg- on using this as my lube -guard.?
I can only recommend what I've tried :)
So, I can add "Lubeguard" to the Mobil 1 that's in the chain case now?
And add "Lubeguard" to the Mobil 1 that I have in the crankcase?
you have my permission
Quote from: Panzer on May 13, 2018, 03:35:29 PM
So, I can add "Lubeguard" to the Mobil 1 that's in the chain case now?
And add "Lubeguard" to the Mobil 1 that I have in the crankcase?
Yes to the chaincase ONLY IF THE MOBIL 1 IN THERE IS ATF, no to the crankcase.... it's not for engine oils.
Understood! :up:
Ok, there are lots of systems to charge batteries and start a dead motor, but I prefer to discuss about the kicker.
Does anyone know the OEM number of the cap at the end of the fifth gear I have in photos?? Is this rubber or metal? Can it be removed to main shaft ispection?
Wrong place daniele_1983
The Clunk is normal as well as intentionally made by Harley Davidson for rider experience. Here is some info that might help with overly loud kluncking though. There is room in the transmission dogs for it to swing before connecting and this is the kluck sound you hear. If your spring plate in the clutch basket is worn it will not keep a certain drag on the basket that keeps the dogs connected and they separate. when the dogs come back into contact it makes that awesome Kluncking sound. Using lighter oil might help some but the best thing to do is take that dreaded spring plate out of your clutch basket and get the extra clutch kit installed and then you will have a great shifting and kluncking Harley Davidson with awesome rider experience as well as peace of mind knowing you won,t be buying tons of primary parts that get destroyed by the spring plate.
I suppose i could up grade my clutch which has been trouble free with over 30 k miles on it.. What's all in the kit and is it a dealer item only.? @ $$?
It comes with 2 extra plates and one extra clutch and replaces the spring plate. The Barnett extra clutch kit is pretty popular and can be bought on ebay. If your clutches are that good you can just buy the 2 plates (I have 2) and a single clutch. Just add them and remove the spring plate. I made a tool out of 3 " PVC to compress and remove the clip that holds the basket together. Just get a cap for the 3 " pipe drill a hole for the bolt nut and washers. They do sell a tool which you can actually do the job without removing the basket chain and sprocket.
Quote from: Backyard Mech on May 27, 2018, 07:02:44 AM
It comes with 2 extra plates and one extra clutch and replaces the spring plate. The Barnett extra clutch kit is pretty popular and can be bought on ebay. If your clutches are that good you can just buy the 2 plates (I have 2) and a single clutch. Just add them and remove the spring plate. I made a tool out of 3 " PVC to compress and remove the clip that holds the basket together. Just get a cap for the 3 " pipe drill a hole for the bolt nut and washers. They do sell a tool which you can actually do the job without removing the basket chain and sprocket.
Thanks i will check into it.The tool i have . Does the clutch feel (pull) any diff? Bad left hand and more tension is not a good thing. Even with the AMP box under the lever and suppose to reduce the effort , i don't need another hand ,wrist joint surgery.
Quote from: hogpipes1 on May 27, 2018, 07:24:10 AMDoes the clutch feel (pull) any diff?
No difference. You need a Muller Power Clutch if you want a light pull.
That would be a muller power ramp I believe. Yes that would help but not cheap.
Mine works OK as is . better than stock pull. pulling the spring plate out and replace with 2 fiber & 1 steel should do OK. Muller is the best from the feed back of users, but they won't suck me in on a over priced anything.
IMO, the Muller is the best $150 I ever spent on my bike.
Quote from: hogpipes1 on May 28, 2018, 10:44:44 AM
Mine works OK as is . better than stock pull. pulling the spring plate out and replace with 2 fiber & 1 steel should do OK. Muller is the best from the feed back of users, but they won't suck me in on a over priced anything.
2 steel 1 fiber not visa versa.
if I remove the spring plate.
will an extra stock friction & steel fit in?
yes you need 2 steel plates and 1 friction disc in between them. They will be exactly the same thickness as the spring plate. Be sure the first disc from the inside if you remove them all is friction disc then a metal plate then a friction disc then a metal plate and end up with a friction disc before putting on the pressure plate. Can't be sure but I think the total was 9 all together. If you only remove up to the spring plate then start with a metal plate then a disc etc etc.
Quote from: Backyard Mech on May 29, 2018, 06:31:19 AM
Quote from: hogpipes1 on May 28, 2018, 10:44:44 AM
Mine works OK as is . better than stock pull. pulling the spring plate out and replace with 2 fiber & 1 steel should do OK. Muller is the best from the feed back of users, but they won't suck me in on a over priced anything.
2 steel 1 fiber not visa versa.
Not Visa for sure. i never buy anything til after 2 cups of coffee in am .
Quote from: Backyard Mech on May 29, 2018, 06:18:01 PM
yes you need 2 steel plates and 1 friction disc in between them. They will be exactly the same thickness as the spring plate. Be sure the first disc from the inside if you remove them all is friction disc then a metal plate then a friction disc then a metal plate and end up with a friction disc before putting on the pressure plate. Can't be sure but I think the total was 9 all together. If you only remove up to the spring plate then start with a metal plate then a disc etc etc.
thank you, I like the stock clutch plates so what\nt to just add one when remove spring plate, as upgrading to bit more power. just want to see if this handles it.
There is no judder spring in a Sportster so expect a little clutch squeal when you remove the spring plate. Mine only squeals when it is cold. You should get an additional 11% torque capacity with the extra plate.
mine just clicks in but I have heavy duty
earplugs