Past 200 miles it's gotten more aggressively noisy. Think it's comp noise or rockers? The comp don't knock at start up or shut off.... here is link to the video I did with the sound. https://youtube.com/shorts/MwJgEoAaDuo?feature=share
Not knowing anything about the bike, or even what it is. I'd start with using a stethoscope or a short piece of 3/4" heater hose to listen around the motor.
My 1,000 mile away guess is you have a lifter or lifters self destructing.
It's an 11 ultra with 44k s&s mr103 cam. Have 1800 on it. S&s roller lifters and se compensator. All put in same time.. I used a scope to listen rear rockers louder than front. Lifter blocks didn't sound too noisy. Primary at comp had same loud noise as rockers
Pulled lifters 3 compress 1 don't. Lots of oil around them. Pushrods are straight. Rockers seem normal. Not sure about the lifters though
If 3 lifters compress while one does not, it would lead me to wonder why. It could be because they were loaded by the valve springs and had leaked down before you got them out. It could also be as a result of foreign material causing them to collapse. That can be checked by disassembling them on a clean white towel and inspecting them. Also removing the filter and cutting it open to inspect the pleats for fine metal capable of causing the lifter failure. Both are easy to do at this point.
Unfortunately the later scenario is supported by the engine noise you were hearing.
With 44k and your description, I'd replace the lifters.
You mentioned 1800 on it, is that 1800 miles on the cam and lifters? You also mention S&S roller lifters, is that S&S roller rockers, or S&S lifters? If lifters, standard, or premium?
Coyote, I agree if they are C lifters. If that 2011 is an early manufacture date it may have B lifters as did many. There was a running change. My 2011 RGU came with B's. As Hoss says there is an indication these are short life components to date. I didn't want to get too far into the weeds over that because it seemed this condition came on over a short period of time lately. If not, maybe the OP can clarify. Lifter blockages can be a warning of a failed component shedding metal particles so I suggested it might be wise to check for them contaminants and do the filter at the same time. Nothing to disassemble other than the lifters as they are already in his hands and a filter change if not due is cheap insurance. Are the pushrods adjustables and set right?
QuoteIf that 2011 is an early manufacture date it may have B lifters as did many. There was a running change.
:up:
So took it part spotless clean. Oil was in it. Had some scoring. Took part others they all had similar amounts of oil. The one in question did have a much weaker spring
Finally found my problem. Broken cam bolt :emoGroan:. Took cover off this morning and spun the bolt out by hand. Any good tricks for removing the broken part from the inside
Not really any tricks....Care & Determination....and a left hand bit to drill out the bolt. Give it a quick blast of heat to loosen the lock tite.
Or, pull the cam, orient it in a mill & drill away.
:up: Quite often when using the left hand bit to drill a hole for using an easy out, the heat from drilling softens any Loctite or thread sealer and the fastener stub starts to turn out on it's own. Be careful not to use a drill bit that will cut too wide and get into the threaded portion.
Quote from: kd on June 11, 2021, 07:45:23 AM
:up: Quite often when using the left hand bit to drill a hole for using an easy out, the heat from drilling softens any Loctite or thread sealer and the fastener stub starts to turn out on it's own. Be careful not to use a drill bit that will cut too wide and get into the threaded portion.
:agree: Make sure you drill it nice and straight up the middle of the bolt ,ideally a left handed drill 1/2 the size of the bolt you wish to remove. Bob
Actually got the offending bolt out. Back together and on the road. :chop:
Whew !! Good job. I hate problems like that.