So at last she's back together and started up :)
So far, I've got oil pressure with the plugs out.. did have to lift the ball from its seat but got pressure straight after that.
run it at 1250-1750 for 1 min and let it cool (just got to 150 F)
Then it says run it for 3-4 mins max to get 150 deg f, 160 deg F, 180 deg F, 200 deg F on the jugs letting it cool each time.
no where near 3-4 mins to get to temp.. its there in 1 -1.5 mins?
now keep it under 2.5K for 50 miles, then changing oil and filter.. does this sound about right?
CV 40 and I've set it 48, 190 and 2.5 turns out (K&N filter and Vance open pipes)... how long before I can get a timing light on it?
Timing light can be used after heat cycles (which I do at idle, inspecting for leaks/noises/issues at the same time), but before ring seat. Between heat cycles, I go over the rest of the bikes fasteners, and run the entire procedure back over in my head-did I miss anything? Safe? If OK, verify timing, then test ride & seat rings, back to the shop to cool down, do another walk around looking for leaks/issues. Pull plugs and look for anything obvious (chunks of piston, dripping oil, etc). If everything looks good, ride neighborhoods for about 1/2 hour. This gives me a lot of acceleration/deceleration (loading and unloading) keeping my speeds down but varied. Idle to 3K and back, 3rd gear or lower. (This can all be done on a dyno, while measuring AFR, if desired/available) If it all feels good/no drama, put a couple hundred normal miles on it, change oil/filter, resume normal activities & maintenance schedule.
Do not lug engine, keep at a minimum 2,000 RPM if possible and do run thru gears not keeping at a constant RPM
Quote from: rigidthumper on July 11, 2021, 11:40:51 AM
Timing light can be used after heat cycles (which I do at idle, inspecting for leaks/noises/issues at the same time), but before ring seat. Between heat cycles, I go over the rest of the bikes fasteners, and run the entire procedure back over in my head-did I miss anything? Safe? If OK, verify timing, then test ride & seat rings, back to the shop to cool down, do another walk around looking for leaks/issues. Pull plugs and look for anything obvious (chunks of piston, dripping oil, etc). If everything looks good, ride neighborhoods for about 1/2 hour. This gives me a lot of acceleration/deceleration (loading and unloading) keeping my speeds down but varied. Idle to 3K and back, 3rd gear or lower. (This can all be done on a dyno, while measuring AFR, if desired/available) If it all feels good/no drama, put a couple hundred normal miles on it, change oil/filter, resume normal activities & maintenance schedule.
Quote from: tomfiii on July 11, 2021, 12:17:13 PM
Do not lug engine, keep at a minimum 2,000 RPM if possible and do run thru gears not keeping at a constant RPM
:agree: ... and if you have a place you can do a cool down mid way through that first ride take advantage of it.
Quote from: rigidthumper on July 11, 2021, 11:40:51 AM
Timing light can be used after heat cycles (which I do at idle
how do you do it at idle... I normaly do mine at 2500 rpm with the VOSE disconnected and the light set to what ever deg...
Whats the idle setting and do you leave the VOSE connected... I'm guessing 950 RPM ish?
Quote from: 1340evo on July 11, 2021, 10:36:10 AM
So at last she's back together and started up :)
So far, I've got oil pressure with the plugs out.. did have to lift the ball from its seat but got pressure straight after that.
run it at 1250-1750 for 1 min and let it cool (just got to 150 F)
Then it says run it for 3-4 mins max to get 150 deg f, 160 deg F, 180 deg F, 200 deg F on the jugs letting it cool each time.
no where near 3-4 mins to get to temp.. its there in 1 -1.5 mins?
now keep it under 2.5K for 50 miles, then changing oil and filter.. does this sound about right?
CV 40 and I've set it 48, 190 and 2.5 turns out (K&N filter and Vance open pipes)... how long before I can get a timing light on it?
Immediately.
Quote from: 1340evo on July 11, 2021, 12:32:22 PM
Quote from: rigidthumper on July 11, 2021, 11:40:51 AM
Timing light can be used after heat cycles (which I do at idle
how do you do it at idle... I normaly do mine at 2500 rpm with the VOSE disconnected and the light set to what ever deg...
Whats the idle setting and do you leave the VOSE connected... I'm guessing 950 RPM ish?
I do heat cycles at idle...
1000 to 1500 rpm so it gets plenty of oil....
Have been doing them, tickover to 1250 ish initially, building to 2500 for the last one.
what is the tickover advance? (not near my manual right now and time off the mag)
also, are additional heat cycles something to do.. or do they become detrimental?.. Raining like mad here :(
IMO, additional heat cycles can be detrimental- the new rings need loading to properly seat against the cross hatch of the cylinder wall, (the cross hatch acts like a file until the tops are worn off, and that only lasts a few miles) easiest to do while riding under load, either on the road or the dyno. Neighborhood riding is perfect for this. Cooling air flowing across the engine is critical when new, so be patient.
:agree: Great advice. You have had to be patient through a bunch of glitches so far. This one is critical to a well sealed engine and it will pay you back in spades.
okay, thanks. thats what I though so will let it be for a better day then start taking it around the block... power on / off up to 3rd to bed them in.
Will leave the timing as is for now, its where it was when it came in bits so can't be that far out despite the crank being trued a lot :smile:
Heat cycles? The cylinders are already heat cycled. Get it on the road once timing and mixture are right
What ignition do you have on this? You can static time just about any of them to get close enough to run it around until you get to the timing light.
-JW
I could check the timing with the static mark and moveing the plate... will consult the manual to see what I'm looking for on a 89...