An old acquaintance has a '74 XLCH in his garage; he's the second owner and it's got an honest 6800 miles on it (I've known him for years and can trust what he says) I've been over to kick start it for him a couple times; quite easy if you follow the drill. Now; so far I know it's last year right shift; but I started on BSA's so no biggie for me. Also, bike has a Low Rider front end with the smaller single pot dual discs; looks OK...I also see the HD frame braces (yuck!) All else stock. I tried to buy it in the past; he's now ready to sell...what do the Ironhead experts here think?
Hell, if it runs and only 6800 miles on it, grab it, but then again, what's the price?
6800 miles in 41 years..............hardly broken in. (Hard to believe :scratch: )
Much like a good hunting rifle that's only had a few shots fired in decades...not unheard of. He bought it from a friend many years ago, then simply parked it. We do live in the "sub-arctic" up here in Canada where summer is measured in weeks and he's miles from pavement, too. Eccentric old bachelor; OK guy...
His neighbor has an army surplus 45, too. But, I'm not into that.
I just have no experience with Iron head sporties and I'm sure they require a certain skill set to actually use day to day properly. I've always liked Sporties...first HD was a new '01 883 I had built up to 100HP; was major fun. This will never achieve that kind of performance, I realize, but there's a certain elemental look and feel about it I like; don't want a money pit either...been there, done that
1/2 the battle is won. you been starting it for him...lol.
get it,
good to hear of someone keeping the old iron alive.
it will be fun...
But it is only sort of the last year right side shift...as the 75-76 was actually a right side shift "modified" by Rube Goldberg, to shift on the left...before the first true left side shift in '77.
[attach=0]
Got it...3900 miles, documented to my satisfaction. Now I'll have a winter project and a unique summer cruiser
I look forward to seeing that around.
cool :up:...have fun with it :bike:
That picture just makes me feel that the speedo cable broke @ 6800 miles. Messy cable routing, just my feeling.
Quote from: Breeze on October 02, 2019, 04:08:46 AM
That picture just makes me feel that the speedo cable broke @ 6800 miles. Messy cable routing, just my feeling.
No; 3900 miles. I've known the owner for around 20 years. Totally legit in my mind; saw his original bill of sale too. I've no intention of "flipping" it so no further proof needed for anyone else. Off work Thursday; will clean it up and call the only mechanic I know who's worked on these when they were new.
Next step is a battery and he said to "polarize" the generator. Got old Haynes and Clymer manuals; he says instructions are in them
Wow, it's been a lot of years since I polarized a generator. Reading that brought a smile to my face.
Don't get surprised, you will see a spark when you do it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=riGlBopUmEM
Yes indeed! Looking forward to the next pics of it after you've polished it up a bit.
-JW
Done CPIC search (nationwide stolen reports: neg) and provincial search (no liens)
Registration in my name complete (required insurance; cost $62 Cdn for 10 months; term of my other bikes expires then. That's about $46.50 USD). NOW I'll wash and buff it up...pic to follow
QuoteNOW I'll wash and buff it up...pic to follow
well you know what they say ............
..... when I owned an '82 Iron Head I just said "f@@kem" :SM: :chop:
[attach=0]
Was it ancient grime or garage makeup covering zits? LOL
I spy:
fork lower legs, brake rotors and wheel from a period Low Rider
aftermarket oil cooler with internal filter
16" Lester rear mag
I need:
battery
front brakes
seat
Let the fun continue
Those oil lines are broadly dry and brittle, they're running right past the cylinders. I'd put them high on the list.
Quote from: Ohio HD on October 03, 2019, 05:20:28 PM
Those oil lines are broadly dry and brittle, they're running right past the cylinders. I'd put them high on the list.
Good point; I'll probably remove the oil cooler altogether
I ran those old Drag Specialties coolers on a few old Shovels because they have a filter in them. These were old Shovel Pans that had the horseshoe oil tank and no filter. Even if you mounted it out of sight, the filter is a benefit.
Great looking bike. Love the mag wheels. Might need a better seat though.
Wow, that cleaned up great! Agree with the oil cooler, probably not that much need up there in Canada eh? Keep the pics coming as you make progress on it.
:up:
-JW
Quote from: JW113 on October 04, 2019, 09:19:19 AM
Wow, that cleaned up great! Agree with the oil cooler, probably not that much need up there in Canada eh? Keep the pics coming as you make progress on it.
:up:
-JW
:agree: nice before and after have fun with it, and yeah, keep the posts and pix comming
Had a couple beers with some HD mechanics last night; now we're gonna have a "start the Ironhead" garage party at my place soon. A couple of the young fellas have never kick started a motorcycle...this is gonna be interesting!
Quote from: sharkoilfield on October 05, 2019, 05:36:33 PM
Had a couple beers with some HD mechanics last night; now we're gonna have a "start the Ironhead" garage party at my place soon. A couple of the young fellas have never kick started a motorcycle...this is gonna be interesting!
That really sounds like a good time! A bunch of guys looking around it, pointing, "what if...?", "how about...?" , "I think...?"
More beer, more kicking, much cheering when it fires!
Good luck, have fun with it.
Yeah, and after the second 12 pack and a lot of foul language, it gets rolled out into the street and a small contingent tries to push start it. Now where have I heard that before?
:hyst:
Sounds like a party to me!
-JW
Had a motorcycle mechanics instructor from last century over last night. He sold & serviced these new. He gave it a once over; auto advance works, points OK, drain oil from crankcase, check carb (original bendix), flush tank & carb with fresh gas, find "combination" within 20 kicks and we started and ran it twice. That mission accomplished, we're now ready for a small garage party. Can't wait to see the young mechanic who's never kick started a motorcycle.
:baby:
What's next? Smokey burnouts in the driveway?
Congrats dude!
-JW
(https://i.postimg.cc/0Q2SHMPq/rjburnout.jpg)
Dueling burnouts!
Quote from: sharkoilfield on October 05, 2019, 05:36:33 PM
A couple of the young fellas have never kick started a motorcycle...this is gonna be interesting!
You are going to warn them about kickbacks aren't you?. :hyst:
They'll be warned; but like so many other things in life, there's the talk and then there's the experience...
Something I haven't seen in a looong time, is a young man limping around with a "Sportster knee".
What 100 years of hands-on motorcycle experience looks like, giving my XLCH a close inspection. Generator works great, accelerator pump doesn't work at all. Top end sounds good, no exhaust smoke...sure sounds sweet. I'll fix the accelerator pump and install new manifold rubbers before the rookie tries to start it. An exciting project for me; heritage instead of horsepower
Quote from: sharkoilfield on November 18, 2019, 09:19:15 PM
What 100 years of hands-on motorcycle experience looks like, giving my XLCH a close inspection. Generator works great, accelerator pump doesn't work at all. Top end sounds good, no exhaust smoke...sure sounds sweet. I'll fix the accelerator pump and install new manifold rubbers before the rookie tries to start it. An exciting project for me; heritage instead of horsepower
:up:
:chop:
Manually stroked the accelerator pump thru it's full available travel a few times and gas started squirting! That was easy.
Next; install new fuel line, put air cleaner back on and start again tomorrow night. Got an extra "kicker" coming to try his luck.
[attach=0]
Score! Correct NOS plugs for my 1974.
Points plugs
You should use resistor plugs if you have Electronic Ignition.
You are correct. My 1974 has points/condenser/coil and will remain so...making these the (hard to find now) right non-resistor plugs.
I'll have to "make" a pair of solid core wires; seems all are resistor type wires nowadays
I don't think you need to be too concerned about using resistor plugs and wires with points ignition. The "resistance" through the plug and wire pales in comparison to the "resistance" through the air gap on the spark plug. Resistance plugs/wires were added to cut down on electrical interference into electronic equipment like radios, and now cell phones and on board computers. Solid core spark plug wires act like little antennas, resistance wires don't. You can use the non-resistor plugs and solid core wires if you want, but I wager you'll not find it makes no difference in any way that you can tell.
-JW
I'm sure there's no discernible difference in plugs and wires; but for the effort it takes I wanna go full 1974 with this ride. What about fuel? I can get premium gas with no ethanol and also 100LL Avgas. Should I put something in the gas for valve seat lube? Wasn't that one of the benefits of lead?
Polarizing and Sportster Knee I remember those days : )
It was possibly a side benefit, but it's main purpose was to boost iso-octane rating. And of course, poison us. I do believe that you will have a hard time putting enough miles on that Sporty to worry about wearing out the valve seats any time soon using unleaded gas.
-JW
JW113; for sure I won't be putting too many miles on this bike. Just want to keep the engine on the best diet possible, if it's not too much trouble. What can you tell me about the intake/head seals? I'd like to change them...is there an "upgrade"? Where do you get maintenance parts for these old ironheads? I'm going to let one of the guys in the picture re-build my carb; need a quality kit and manifold gaskets
Valve seals: Ironheads did not come with valve seals. It's possible to machine the valve guides to accept them, but as being discussed on another thread, opinions vary about doing this.
Maintenance parts: My first stop is typically JP Cycles or Dennis Kirk.
-JW
You will need some vintage air to fill the tires, to go with the leaded fuel!
Sorry; I didn't make myself clear...I'm referring to the seal between the intake manifold and heads. I see different products from James & Cometic. Looks like a rubber band and a clamp over it?
I honestly prefer the o-ring intake seals over the flat band intake seals. There used to be some silicon o-ring seals available that stayed pliable a lot longer. If you use good aircraft stainless steel clamps, you can almost pick the motor up by the intake.
[attach=0]
I fought intake leaks as well with the band style. The problem I think with the band clamps is that if you don't have the '79 (?) and later heads and intake manifold, the is not enough flange on the spigots for the bands to grab on to. I got a set of brass clamps and O-ring from Harddrive, seems to have sealed up quite well and as Ohio said, intake is locked solid to the heads. I think these are a copy of what Ness used to sell back when.
[attach=0]
There's another guy selling a band style clamp set that uses silicon tubing and two thin stainless clamps on each spigot. Claims that it makes a positive seal since you're clamping to each flange individually. Perhaps so, but the price is pretty hefty. Being a cheap bastard, I bought the hose and clamps individually for about 1/3 the price, but still sitting on the bench, have not tried yet. The O-ring seals seem to be working fine, so what the heck.
[attach=1]
-JW
My favorite intake sealing system 0is O rings with the aircraft clamps, but I also make a few laps with Teflon tape over the O rings as insurance. If I'm dealing with a wide band situation, I do the Teflon thing also drifting over the bands edges (yes its a PIA), but you have to use the split style clamp. If its a 1980ish miss match head/manifold situation, either find the heads match or make rings like Rivera use to make & glue them on (Permitex #2).
Quote from: JW113 on December 03, 2019, 08:39:26 AM
I fought intake leaks as well with the band style. The problem I think with the band clamps is that if you don't have the '79 (?) and later heads and intake manifold, the is not enough flange on the spigots for the bands to grab on to. I got a set of brass clamps and O-ring from Harddrive, seems to have sealed up quite well and as Ohio said, intake is locked solid to the heads. I think these are a copy of what Ness used to sell back when.
I like the looks of the twin clamps and silicone tubing...gotta link?
[attach=0,msg1325304]
There's another guy selling a band style clamp set that uses silicon tubing and two thin stainless clamps on each spigot. Claims that it makes a positive seal since you're clamping to each flange individually. Perhaps so, but the price is pretty hefty. Being a cheap bastard, I bought the hose and clamps individually for about 1/3 the price, but still sitting on the bench, have not tried yet. The O-ring seals seem to be working fine, so what the heck.
[attach=1,msg1325304]
-JW
Found it! FNA Cycles...thanks for the lead
Very cool. Let us know how they work. I've not tried that set up yet, but have it available in case the O-ring & two part clamp lets me down. I like Jeff's suggestion of using some wraps of teflon tape before clamping it down. I'll give that a try when I put mine back together.
-JW
Teflon tape is not needed and may cause problems.
Teflon tape is not structurally sound it will not bind and tears easily, actually it cold flows under pressure.
Teflon tape is a lubricant and will spoil any mechanical fixing of the joint by the clamps.
There is nothing wrong with the OEM seals if installed properly and a CARB BRACE is in place (do not run without one).
And not a S&S carb brace that hooks to the manifold, a proper carb brace should be attached to the air filter backing plate.
Intake seals are a maintenance item even on an EVO.
The cylinders move around too much for a solid mounting and the rubber eventually gives up over time.
I think the Orings are better than the rubber bands, but either takes a beating and must be renewed every few years.
More than one way to do this, but I agree with Burnout. Properly installed and quality OEM "style" parts and the o-ring intake setup works and holds up. The key is to use the stainless aircraft clamps, and a high quality o-ring that resists heat break down. These James are viton and not buna like the OEM. buna dries out sooner and become hard.
https://www.jamesgaskets.com/product/jgi-27060-55-v/
Also the two heads must have the intake ports as close to 60° as possible. I always used a drafting angle to align the heads as I installed them. Still have that same angle in my tool box after 40 years.
Quote from: Burnout on December 05, 2019, 09:54:05 PM
Teflon tape is not needed and may cause problems.
Teflon tape is not structurally sound it will not bind and tears easily, actually it cold flows under pressure.
Teflon tape is a lubricant and will spoil any mechanical fixing of the joint by the clamps.
There is nothing wrong with the OEM seals if installed properly and a CARB BRACE is in place (do not run without one).
And not a S&S carb brace that hooks to the manifold, a proper carb brace should be attached to the air filter backing plate.
Intake seals are a maintenance item even on an EVO.
The cylinders move around too much for a solid mounting and the rubber eventually gives up over time.
I think the Orings are better than the rubber bands, but either takes a beating and must be renewed every few years.
Well everybody has their opinion, and its been working for me for 30+ years. As mentioned using a 60 degree angle piece gets it close as possible, but rarely are the surfaces ever perfect, and Oring style lips take a beating. Yes just using good Orings & a good bracket system are 90% of the battle. Teflon tape (good chit, not HF crap.),can be sucked into a problem area, not massively, but enough to stop a leak, and lets the clamps slide into their happy place. My shovel's intakes are doing well after 12+ years after the initial install, and using a CV carb. A CV will tell you if something is wrong .
Quote from: sharkoilfield on November 18, 2019, 09:19:15 PM
What 100 years of hands-on motorcycle experience looks like, giving my XLCH a close inspection. Generator works great, accelerator pump doesn't work at all. Top end sounds good, no exhaust smoke...sure sounds sweet. I'll fix the accelerator pump and install new manifold rubbers before the rookie tries to start it. An exciting project for me; heritage instead of horsepower
Wally is a smart man.
The front may in fact be Low Rider or..1978- '79 Sportster which were also dual disk... the oil tank on an XLCH should be the small Lunch box [not horseshoe] and there was no provision for oil filter... I too have used that Oil cooler/filter housing... but, mounted much lower, as they are messy when ya remove the "cover".
I could ride the "Potty mouth" outta that bike...
My Eldest's '75
http://www.amraonline.com/BikePics/75Sp.jpg
My 1977
http://www.amraonline.com/BikePics/77lft.jpg
If ya need any help somehow...LMK
I plan on removing the filter/cooler assembly. Cooler not required up here and I see it's already kissed the fender. I like the front motor mount oil filter idea on your '77; looks like my favorite K&N filter, too. What filter do you use for that application?
I'd Leave the cooler on if you are going to run 20-50w.
Easier starting cold and you can still get full protection in the summer.
I've actually never run an oil cooler on a motorcycle; even trippin' to Sturgis in 100+ degree heat on my hopped up 103 T-Sport. I won't be going far on this Ironhead; if I do it'll be trailered. The cooler is so fuggin ugly and I'd rather have the engine mount filter. I don't know if there's different filter setups or are they pretty much the same...also, what filter are they using?
Oil Coolers are probably never a necessity... but, I like the Filter in the pseudo cooler... just convenient, and good looking..
nuther reason I mounted mine down low, is so it can't "kiss" the fender... nor make out with any other "parts"!!
I Only use the original K&N [forgot the damn number] or more likely...Wix 51215/NAPA 1215 spin on, oil filters...and darned if I can find the Number right now, of the chrome ones!!!
No Other filter goes in any Harley I own/work on... but none are as new as Twinky either!!! they use a Different filter...
That's what else is in our garage; two "Twinkies" and I know they are different filters than the EVO. I do like the built in nut on the filter for removal. If they fit all others, as you say, then it must be the EVO filter...I believe the Ironhead is a fairly low pressure oiling system; have no experience with EVO's.
Quote from: sharkoilfield on December 15, 2019, 11:12:16 AM
That's what else is in our garage; two "Twinkies" and I know they are different filters than the EVO. I do like the built in nut on the filter for removal. If they fit all others, as you say, then it must be the EVO filter...I believe the Ironhead is a fairly low pressure oiling system; have no experience with EVO's.
The 1977+ Ironhead actually has a fairly robust Oiling System..so much so, that the same basic pump is found on the Evo Sportsters...right into the '90's!!!
Filters always strike a "spot" on the internet... suffice to say... Ironhead/Shovelhead/Evo's...everything Except the Twinky...take the same basic oil filter... with no anti-drainback valve... tho on some applications the Thread is different... the filter is basically the same...
Well, with accelerator pump working the bike is actually fairly easy to start. Lots of compression; no volunteers from the audience when it's time to stomp the kicker though LOL. Next job will be intake manifold seals, as soon as I have suitable replacements in hand...not a good time of year to get stuff mailed though. What a beautiful sound when running. I made a video and listen to it on my truck speakers via bluetooth, a treat in the middle of winter up here
:up: :up:
Can anyone tell me about this gas tank decal? What year is it? Silk screened or water slide or vinyl?
My 2008 FXDF is Denim Black and the 1974 might make a neat "mini-me"
Might be 14007-82. I think same/similar decal w/ "AMF" in it is 61249-79.
Quote from: 14Frisco on December 27, 2019, 02:05:11 PM
Might be 14007-82. I think same/similar decal w/ "AMF" in it is 61249-79.
Turned out to actually be 05-08; I found a pair of excellent waterslide re-pops...just have to decide if I wanna spend the $
Any of you other old timers seen a shifter like this before?
I imagine it's period aftermarket? [attach=0]
34602-64 Shifter Lever Assy (heel&toe) 64-70 XLH, XLCH
Awesome info; thanks. Now to find one...
:hug: [attach=0,msg1330608]
Started to crank on the clutch compressor tool and the plates let go. No need to disassemble...now to get rid of that oil cooler. Can anybody tell if this is the early or late 1974 clutch from this picture?
Looks the same as our '77
But.....
Looks like a late '74 to '85 style, judging from the lack of spring adjusting nuts on the release disk...
-JW
Quote from: JW113 on January 18, 2020, 11:19:57 AM
Looks like a late '74 to '85 style, judging from the lack of spring adjusting nuts on the release disk...
-JW
Right...the "nuts" snug down against Standoffs... no adjustment...
Yep.
'71 - early '74 style:
[attach=0]
-JW
Quote from: JW113 on January 19, 2020, 10:15:30 AM
Yep.
'71 - early '74 style:
[attach=0,msg1330755]
-JW
and those additional short studs are for????
My 1971 Sporty had the stand-offs and those excess studs...
I thought those "studs" were left over from the older Clutch...
The extra studs are to mount the tabs lock the nuts used on a Pre-sleeved clutch pack.
You should be using the later steels and sleeves over the main studs.
Quote from: Burnout on January 21, 2020, 06:11:15 PM
The extra studs are to mount the tabs lock the nuts used on a Pre-sleeved clutch pack.
You should be using the later steels and sleeves over the main studs.
"Potty mouth"!!! I remember that lock plate!!!!! was sitting here thinking of the old "covered" clutch, and forgot about locking the nuts when used without the Stand-offs.... Thanks for the "jog"
A true wealth of information available here...
What kind of wrench will fit into the space around the clutch cable locknut? My flare nut or open end wrench's won't [attach=0] and by the looks of those rounded edges, neither did anything the former owner had...
I was going to mention that it looks like it's been a problem for others! Maybe a needle nose vise grips? That, and put a wrench on the other nut and turn it as a unit?
Quote from: sharkoilfield on January 23, 2020, 06:28:25 AM
A true wealth of information available here...
What kind of wrench will fit into the space around the clutch cable locknut? My flare nut or open end wrench's won't [attach=0,msg1331180] and by the looks of those rounded edges, neither did anything the former owner had...
Afraid you will need to modify an open end wrench for that one... But start by replacing that rounded nut...
Bigger PITA than it should be tho... Maybe do Not piss with it till ya need a cable....
Quote from: Racepres on January 22, 2020, 06:11:09 AM
Quote from: Burnout on January 21, 2020, 06:11:15 PM
The extra studs are to mount the tabs lock the nuts used on a Pre-sleeved clutch pack.
You should be using the later steels and sleeves over the main studs.
"Potty mouth"!!! I remember that lock plate!!!!! was sitting here thinking of the old "covered" clutch, and forgot about locking the nuts when used without the Stand-offs.... Thanks for the "jog"
I always use new lock nuts on the pressure plate as well.
Careful to not over-tighten, the sleeves crush easily.
Quote from: Burnout on January 23, 2020, 09:39:40 AM
Quote from: Racepres on January 22, 2020, 06:11:09 AM
Quote from: Burnout on January 21, 2020, 06:11:15 PM
The extra studs are to mount the tabs lock the nuts used on a Pre-sleeved clutch pack.
You should be using the later steels and sleeves over the main studs.
"Potty mouth"!!! I remember that lock plate!!!!! was sitting here thinking of the old "covered" clutch, and forgot about locking the nuts when used without the Stand-offs.... Thanks for the "jog"
I always use new lock nuts on the pressure plate as well.
Careful to not over-tighten, the sleeves crush easily.
Wow!!!! Never ...ever crushed one of those stand-offs...
I think about 6 to 6.5 FtLbs is Recommended for 1/4 inch Nut!!!!!! And is plenty with new Nylock's...
Yes, some brilliant engineering with that clutch cable, eh?
There are a couple ways to deal with this. One, use a Barnett clutch cable, in which the body of the adjuster bolt is longer, meaning more threads showing. Then you can use a 5/16 threaded standoff nut, cut down a bit, which will put the hex portion beyond that "well" the stock nut sits in. Then you can get a wrench on it.
The other way (not advocating this, but I do it anyway) is to use a small flat chisel instead of a wrench, and "tap tighten" the nut. As mentioned above, you don't really need to tighten the piss out of this nut, just a smidgen beyond snug.
And one last thing: Use a seal washer on this under the nut. Meaning, one of those flat washers that has an O-ring, i.e. banjo fitting seal washer.
-JW
Quote from: JW113 on January 23, 2020, 02:09:50 PM
Yes, some brilliant engineering with that clutch cable, eh?
There are a couple ways to deal with this. One, use a Barnett clutch cable, in which the body of the adjuster bolt is longer, meaning more threads showing. Then you can use a 5/16 threaded standoff nut, cut down a bit, which will put the hex portion beyond that "well" the stock nut sits in. Then you can get a wrench on it.
The other way (not advocating this, but I do it anyway) is to use a small flat chisel instead of a wrench, and "tap tighten" the nut. As mentioned above, you don't really need to tighten the piss out of this nut, just a smidgen beyond snug.
And one last thing: Use a seal washer on this under the nut. Meaning, one of those flat washers that has an O-ring, i.e. banjo fitting seal washer.
-JW
Yes yes... that is simply a 5/16 nut... they make them Double Tall, and maybe taller...
sometimes called a coupler nut....
https://www.zoro.com/te-co-coupling-nut-516-18-gr-5-st-black-oxide-41502/i/G1598256/feature-product?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI1te0o4Ob5wIVjpOzCh3WXAgsEAQYBSABEgJJa_D_BwE
Yep, that would be the one. I get mine at Home Depot or Ace...
-JW
I'll be replacing both clutch and throttle cables with Barnet when the time comes. For now I'm going to modify a wrench and will use a coupler and sealing washer before I button up the primary. I'd just like it to function well enough for a little local riding this spring...only way to tell if the whole bike works (ie: transmission). I'm sure I'll have more questions soon...
[attach=0]
This item arrived the other day; I've got next weekend off and I plan to spend it in the garage. Remove old oil cooler and replace oil lines as required, install this Ram Flo 400 air cleaner (see a lot more of that beautiful old motor) change all oils and start her up again...
Quote from: sharkoilfield on February 22, 2020, 06:23:38 AM
[attach=0,msg1334587]
This item arrived the other day; I've got next weekend off and I plan to spend it in the garage. Remove old oil cooler and replace oil lines as required, install this Ram Flo 400 air cleaner (see a lot more of that beautiful old motor) change all oils and start her up again...
Nice for keeping Birds and large Rocks and Insects out....
You would be Money, and Horsepower in the bank with the simple change to a K&N Air filter!!!
Could even set a National Record or Two!!!!!
http://www.amraonline.com/BikePics/77rt.jpg
Long time fan of the S&S Super B air cleaner. Sexy teardrop shape, small, can see most of the motor, easy to replace paper element.
[attach=0]
-JW
[attach=0]
I have the polished, cast "S&S CYCLE" on my #1 bike
The mini would look great on my #2 (XLCH) BUT is just too expensive for me
That, my friend, is why you keep an eye out for one on ebay. I picked up three of them, all pretty cheap and in pretty rough shape. Which, in my humble opinion, is the wonderful thing about aluminum. It cleans up real nice.
-JW
Quote from: JW113 on February 22, 2020, 10:24:02 AM
Long time fan of the S&S Super B air cleaner. Sexy teardrop shape, small, can see most of the motor, easy to replace paper element.
[attach=0,msg1334611]
-JW
Ya had me right up till the Paper Element.. No Thanks... The K&N filter for the S&S air cleaner is the Only way I go [E-3225]... even my Tractors have K&N Filters!!!!
Everybody believes what they want to believe. If you're having having good results with K&N air filters, more power to ya. Personally, I hate cleaning them. But I'm also am a bit swayed by the research done comparing paper to K&N filter elements.
Have a look at section 3 and 4.
https://www.researchgate.net/publication/305109858_Effect_of_OEM_Style_and_Aftermarket_Performance_Air_Filters_on_Vehicle_Parameters
-JW
Quote from: JW113 on February 23, 2020, 09:43:07 AM
Everybody believes what they want to believe. If you're having having good results with K&N air filters, more power to ya. Personally, I hate cleaning them. But I'm also am a bit swayed by the research done comparing paper to K&N filter elements.
Have a look at section 3 and 4.
https://www.researchgate.net/publication/305109858_Effect_of_OEM_Style_and_Aftermarket_Performance_Air_Filters_on_Vehicle_Parameters
-JW
You said it we all believe what we want, Some in Fact, based on Experience... I have Never yet Cleaned a K&N Filter... So I can't speak to that!!
I can Prove that a K&N outflows a New Sponge... very simply... I wouldn't dream of paper... again based on My Experiences!!!
BTW I care less about Automotive and especially New Diesel, studies!!!!
:beer:
-JW
I've used K&N and paper; nice to be able to "service" (KN) the air filter when you live waaay out in the sticks. Does you think I should "oil" the Ram Flo?
I bought the one with blank backing plate; wanna make sure the carb support bracket fits properly...we'll see in a few days. May even try to go around the block if
the roads are dry and temps are above freezing...oh yeah; gotta flush front brake lines...hope there's no shocking surprises there. I'm going to replace lines real soon but I have to ensure I have the right (and serviceable) master cylinder on the handlebars. Haven't been able to contact the previous owner to ask how the front brake was. At some point in it's life, a dual-disc front end was put on. There's a spare pair of fork tubes, too. He claims front end was from a Low Rider of the era.
pm sent
Front brake master cylinder: In conversation with the former owner, it sounds like the front brake master cylinder is original (single disc) and the bike has a later twin disc front wheel. My research indicates that HD went to the twin disc in '78 on XL's and FXD's?
So, I'm gonna have to find one of those master cylinders if I want to have front brakes work right, correct? I don't think I'm gonna waste much time on the stock master cylinder if it's not the right one for twin discs anyway...
Quote from: sharkoilfield on March 12, 2020, 09:22:07 PM
Front brake master cylinder: In conversation with the former owner, it sounds like the front brake master cylinder is original (single disc) and the bike has a later twin disc front wheel. My research indicates that HD went to the twin disc in '78 on XL's and FXD's?
So, I'm gonna have to find one of those master cylinders if I want to have front brakes work right, correct? I don't think I'm gonna waste much time on the stock master cylinder if it's not the right one for twin discs anyway...
Was No FXD in '78... FXE and FXS had dual disk.. and yes the Sportster got dual disk [same front end] at that time..
about the Master cylinder... The single disk MC especially a later one will simply be a bit Smaller diameter... less Volume, but less lever pressure per PSI applied to the Brake...
Master cylinders are available, and labeled.. larger diameter= more Volume= more lever pressure per PSI applied... Nothing More Nothing less...
the worst case scenario would be 2 Large Calipers and a too small MC... would result in not enough volume... and the Lever would Max out [travel] and Not enough Fluid to apply any braking action... again worst case...and something I have Not Experienced with OE components!!!
I routinely change front master cylinder to meet specific needs... including lever travel, and certainly Lever Effort...
Yep its the difference between needing all 4 fingers on the lever, or only needing two.
The Harley-Davidson engineers, in their infinite wisdom, believe that you should have a grip like Arnold Schwarzenegger to be able to slow down a motorcycle. I believe this was their idea of "anti-lock brakes". UNLIKE all of the Japanese motorcycle engineers believe. (and Erik Buell) Notice that most Japanese bikes built past 1980 or so require a slight squeeze with the little finger to do a stoppie.
I have a single disk master cylinder (9/16") on my dual disk Road King. It works great. No worries about too much lever travel, not even a consideration. Keep in mind that liquids are essentially "incompressible". So whether single disk or dual disk, there is not much brake fluid flowing when you pull the lever. You're simply pressurizing the system. The brake pads don't really retract when you are not applying the brakes, so there is really not much movement when you do.
My opinion is you'll likely have better feel to the brakes with a single disk 5/8" master cylinder than with the stock-for-dual-disk 3/4" master cylinder. Suggest to leave it as is, and do something later if there is an issue.
-JW
Quote from: JW113 on March 13, 2020, 04:10:28 PM
The Harley-Davidson engineers, in their infinite wisdom, believe that you should have a grip like Arnold Schwarzenegger to be able to slow down a motorcycle. I believe this was their idea of "anti-lock brakes". UNLIKE all of the Japanese motorcycle engineers believe. (and Erik Buell) Notice that most Japanese bikes built past 1980 or so require a slight squeeze with the little finger to do a stoppie.
I have a single disk master cylinder (9/16") on my dual disk Road King. It works great. No worries about too much lever travel, not even a consideration. Keep in mind that liquids are essentially "incompressible". So whether single disk or dual disk, there is not much brake fluid flowing when you pull the lever. You're simply pressurizing the system. The brake pads don't really retract when you are not applying the brakes, so there is really not much movement when you do.
My opinion is you'll likely have better feel to the brakes with a single disk 5/8" master cylinder than with the stock-for-dual-disk 3/4" master cylinder. Suggest to leave it as is, and do something later if there is an issue.
-JW
:agree:
For what it is worth, I agree with JW113. Back 20 something years ago when I got my Pan (in a 1981 FXE frame and dual disc front end) I followed some advice and put a GMA 3/4 inch front master cylinder on to handle the front brakes. The master that came on it needed work. I have never been happy with the amount of pressure needed to stop, not possible to lock them up. I should change it, just need ambition and extra money.
I'll re-furbish existing front brake system before I change master cylinder. Thanks
On the topic of intake sealing; how about industrial SS T bolt clamps? Will the nylock melt?
And, o-rings or a piece of silicone hose?? [attach=0]
Quote from: sharkoilfield on March 15, 2020, 03:36:19 PM
I'll re-furbish existing front brake system before I change master cylinder. Thanks
On the topic of intake sealing; how about industrial SS T bolt clamps? Will the nylock melt?
And, o-rings or a piece of silicone hose?? [attach=0,msg1337233]
Only use what was OE here... save yerself a headache!!!
'74 should be O-rings.. make sure you use the solid clamp... Not the "split" clamp as it is for Rubberbands...
Do Not over tighten [either style]... tho the o-ring will handle that better... I have Never had a problem with O.E. Clamps... ugly as they are!!!! But there are numerous "solutions" to a non-existant problem....
The old standard aircraft stainless clamps never failed me. You can almost pick up the motor with the intake when these are tightened down.
https://www.dragspecialties.com/products/?productId=228990&partNumber=10130043
Gotta love DS. I usually do a little research before buying off the shelf hardware from them, though.
https://www.amazon.com/HPS-Stainless-Steel-T-Bolt-Clamp/dp/B0058W7UZ8
-JW
[attach=0,msg1337534]
That's looking better! (To me, anyhow...)
[attach=0]
Anyone know what filter this vintage cooler took? I've removed it from my XLCH and will likely eBay it, but it would probably be nicer with a new filter. Also hate to sell/ship with a used filter in it
If it's a Drag Specialties model, they just used the OEM HD drop in filter cartridges.
https://www2.vtwinmfg.com/perf-form-oil-filter-unit.html
Quote from: sharkoilfield on March 18, 2020, 06:51:20 PM
[attach=0,msg1337738]
Anyone know what filter this vintage cooler took? I've removed it from my XLCH and will likely eBay it, but it would probably be nicer with a new filter. Also hate to sell/ship with a used filter in it
Yep the OE filter or the Perform as well maybe... I don't recall...that last... I have more than one of those still... One on an XLCH [came without Filter at all] and one on a Chopper... The Only oil cooler I consider Worthwhile...mostly because it doubles as a filter housing!!!!!
Quote from: Ohio HD on March 18, 2020, 07:05:43 PM
If it's a Drag Specialties model, they just used the OEM HD drop in filter cartridges.
https://www2.vtwinmfg.com/perf-form-oil-filter-unit.html
It's a DS allright, but takes a different filter than the one in your post. I'm putting in a DS order tomorrow (Monday)
Thanks for the lead; it only makes sense they would design around an existing, easy to get filter if it was available.
It probably originally used the solid fiber filters, the brown colored filters. I haven't seen one of them for years. What I posted is the replacement when used in the OEM oil tank.
Pretty sure I remember reading that had asbestos in them. Hence they're not around now. 63840-53
[attach=0,msg1338321]
These are maybe the only available replacements.
[attach=1,msg1338321]
Quote from: Ohio HD on March 22, 2020, 01:11:27 PM
It probably originally used the solid fiber filters, the brown colored filters. I haven't seen one of them for years. What I posted is the replacement when used in the OEM oil tank.
Pretty sure I remember reading that had asbestos in them. Hence they're not around now. 63840-53
[attach=0,msg1338321]
These are maybe the only available replacements.
[attach=1,msg1338321]
Correct on Both Counts... again... been using one for at least 35 years!!!
Well; Drag Specialties has the filter and a few other pieces I need on the shelf in Calgary. I'll have it all in hand in a couple days and some work to do on days off
[attach=0]
Received this filter from DS. Wrong...
Box was marked with misleading part #'s; if the parts guy would've opened it for a visual confirmation, he'd have seen that. Oh welll...waiting on eBay now
There is bound to be a 4-speed Shovel guy or a Kidney tank XLH owner in yer Neighborhood!!!!!
[attach=0]
This is my neighborhood right now
Slightly remote from that angle... and I can't believe ya gots that much Snow still... ours is essentially gone..
Somebody around has an Ironhead or a Shovelhead just the same... Bets??
Pretty sure that he's pretty far north in one of the Canadian oilfields.
No Ice Road Biking?
Ice? What is that?
-JW
Quote from: JW113 on March 28, 2020, 09:38:30 PM
Ice? What is that?
-JW
Ice is the cruel joke Nature plays on us up here every year. Looks so cool, sucks so bad. I don't much care for her half the year.
Ice does make for some fun motorsport racing though.
Sorry, got off tech here, I don't want to derail this thread.
[attach=0]
Local ice racing team. Cold, brutal sport. They ran a 24hr race on a local frozen slough. I got invited to ride a 750 Norton; but being self-employed, the "consequence of error" is too financially grave.
[attach=0]
Oh yeah; here's where I live...
When I wore a Younger man's Cloths, I ran a Bultaco Astro on Ice for a Couple years.
Coming from Dirt....you would be amazed at the Absolutely Homogeneous Traction...
Stick a Handlebar End, right in the Ice!!!!!
[attach=0]
Out for a ride on the XLCH today, hit fourth gear, running fine.
Only now noticed the master cylinder cover...how true!
Ain't it the truth? The only greater thrill is getting it back home to the garage under it's own power.
:hyst:
Damn I love old iron. All this new stuff took all the adventure out of riding a motorcycle.
-JW
Quote from: JW113 on April 25, 2020, 06:07:28 PM
Ain't it the truth? The only greater thrill is getting it back home to the garage under it's own power.
:hyst:
Damn I love old iron. All this new stuff took all the adventure out of riding a motorcycle.
-JW
The new stuff is great but it sure lacks the visceral feel of all the old "analog" components coming together with a kick pedal...
I hear alot about folks Coveting old iron... But, Can't give a Stock '75 XLH away in my neck of the Woods...
I'll give it to a GrandKid I guess... Not a Stranger!!!!!
I think the very few who actually want an old ironhead have one; like myself. As we all know, there's often a huge gap between dreams and reality
I love the old bikes too, when someone else has one that's running. I don't have any, and any time I think about getting one, I just have to think about how little time I want to put into my modern bikes before a ride. Doubling or tripling (or worse) that time to take an old one out appeals to me less and less. Hunting for good old parts also is a pain in the arse. My 20 year old RoadKing is enough for me.
Hoss, that is a sign of old age.
Quote from: Buglet on April 27, 2020, 11:42:02 AM
Hoss, that is a sign of old age.
Hey, hey, what the....
Oh wait, it's true!
Aw Hoss, I don't know what old bikes you've been around that gave you that impression, but none of my old ones take any longer to "prep" than my "new" 2004 RK. Turn on gas, turn on ignition, pull choke, hit starter, and off you go. OK, the Indian is slightly more involved, but not by much. Yes, hunting for good parts can be aggravating, but that's just one of the challenges of restoration. Hey, it ain't for everyone, that's for sure!
-JW
The challenge; yes...that's definitely part of it. Takes more than just money to run old iron.
I ran a ratchet strap thru the front wheel, around the neck and "lowered" the forks about an inch. The stance is perfect...suppose I could get lowered springs from RaceTech for a '78 and later Showa? I suppose I'd better contact them and start asking questions.....
Quote from: sharkoilfield on April 30, 2020, 06:38:32 AM
I ran a ratchet strap thru the front wheel, around the neck and "lowered" the forks about an inch. The stance is perfect...suppose I could get lowered springs from RaceTech for a '78 and later Showa? I suppose I'd better contact them and start asking questions.....
A Inch is alot... any lowering "kit" or Method, will reduce travel... If you can live with that, lowering is simple "Potty mouth"..
If you require the Travel... shorter tubes is about the only way..
I'll think on that... but betting that is where you are at..
Measure the length ... either total "leg" or center of axle to base of steering neck...Showa I assume??
Quote from: Hossamania on April 27, 2020, 09:30:13 AM
I love the old bikes too, when someone else has one that's running. I don't have any, and any time I think about getting one, I just have to think about how little time I want to put into my modern bikes before a ride. Doubling or tripling (or worse) that time to take an old one out appeals to me less and less. Hunting for good old parts also is a pain in the arse. My 20 year old RoadKing is enough for me.
Yep Hoss.. I used to enjoy having shovels, 71 and a 73.. almost 20 years ago I bought my FLHT.. Kept the 73 shovel for a few years after that. Rarely ever rode it.. I owned it for 28 years. Replaced, rebuilt, modified, just about everything from the front axle to the rear axle and everything in the middle. The FLH went the first roughly 17 years with no issues other than some warranty repairs when it was still under warranty.
Now it seems I'm having to get into things that wear out, break etc,.. I'd rather ride than wrench these days.. Yes.. I'm getting OLD..
[/quote]
A Inch is alot... any lowering "kit" or Method, will reduce travel... If you can live with that, lowering is simple "Potty mouth"..
If you require the Travel... shorter tubes is about the only way..
I'll think on that... but betting that is where you are at..
Measure the length ... either total "leg" or center of axle to base of steering neck...Showa I assume??
[/quote]
RaceTech replied within 24hrs; concise answer too. Recommended I go with .80kg/in springs; a touch heavier than stock. Will be under $100. Not going to bother with cartridges etc. on this build; it's not going to see much hard riding. Will haul it down to the big city sometime for a cruise around there (340 miles of 4 lane away)
Quote from: sharkoilfield on May 01, 2020, 06:38:43 AM
A Inch is alot... any lowering "kit" or Method, will reduce travel... If you can live with that, lowering is simple "Potty mouth"..
If you require the Travel... shorter tubes is about the only way..
I'll think on that... but betting that is where you are at..
Measure the length ... either total "leg" or center of axle to base of steering neck...Showa I assume??
[/quote]
RaceTech replied within 24hrs; concise answer too. Recommended I go with .80kg/in springs; a touch heavier than stock. Will be under $100. Not going to bother with cartridges etc. on this build; it's not going to see much hard riding. Will haul it down to the big city sometime for a cruise around there (340 miles of 4 lane away)
[/quote]
Not gonna be Lower in any way with heavier springs... or are we talking heavier springs After Lowering???
I stand by what I wrote...And... simply putting a spacer above the Springs would have stiffened the Springs a little [preloaded actually] and you could then see how it "feels" for Free!!!!!
And not to sound like a broken record, but...
Stiff suspension on a street bike means rough ride and compromised handling in turns with less than glass smooth pavement. And reducing what little travel a typical HD has is working in the wrong direction. But if that's you're idea of fun, enjoy!
:slap:
:SM:
-JW
Have had other issues dominate lately; finally stars lined up and went for a good ride today. Most amazing thing was, I went back into the garage a short while after parking the XLCH and, when hot, it has a smell...a beautiful garage aroma. Cast iron and hot oil...am I imagining this?
Quote from: sharkoilfield on May 12, 2020, 08:18:28 PM
when hot, it has a smell...a beautiful garage aroma. Cast iron and hot oil...am I imagining this?
Nope, my buddy rides a unrestored 66 Shovel. I call it the Shatty Shovel (spelled correctly though). It has a aroma all its own. Old oil, fuel, whatever. Cant be described, but it's there and it smells nice. :SM:
So; decision time on the XLCH. I'm definitely keeping it; too much enjoyment just starting and riding it. But; do I restore to origional, or can I do some easily reversible resto-mods? I see far more fugly bodge jobs than clean riders. Obviously being the bike of choice for the bottom of the HD economic scale has decimated the ranks of these old machines. Will they ever have any value other than as the cheapest HD to make noise with? I ask for opinions because it'll cost about the same to go either way.....I see they go for much more (stock) overseas, so they are appreciated somewhere.
I think that decision rests solely with you and what you want. I love restored machines in original livery. But that can be very difficult to accomplish, and certainly not cheap. But really, any vehicle being restored to original is not cheap or easy, and rarely worth the money that is put into it.
And, I can appreciate an old machine that has been modified (cobbled) to keep it on the road and running (no day-glo paint please!).
Close to original with aftermarket parts is just fine too. A friend has a '47 Indian, looks great, runs great, rides it often, pretty close to original, but some aftermarket parts that work much better than original (a good generator with a heat sink attached) that only purists would really notice. It draws a crowd wherever it goes, of course.
If it's already fairly close to stock original, why not keep it that way? When you build choppers or bobbers or what not, you typically start with a hack. But to hack on a fairly pristine old bike is a crime. I'd vote for full stock restoration.
-JW
When I was younger, I liked them modified, bobbed, chopped, something different. Now older, I much prefer stock looking old iron, motor internal mods accepted.
Well mine have all been bobed, chopped, & hot rodded. But I ain't yet found a pristine one. Should somebody put a tired but bone stock '59 XLCH on craigslist for a price I could afford....
:baby:
[attach=0]
-JW
I dislike "restored" almost as much as I dislike "Made it my own"
I much prefer "Period Correct" no shiny new ~ chrome Thanks...
But... it is your Bike
Not sure what you mean. Sending factory chromed parts out to be re-chromed to be like factory new condition is not unfair. Having it repainted by a local painter to original paint scheme is not unfair. Taking aluminum parts to the buffing wheel to shine up like new is not unfair. Is it? I get it, some people like the so-called "survivors", that have managed to make it through decades of use and neglect, and look like total trash. But in my case, I can't have anything that doesn't look showroom floor in my shop. I want this old iron to look and function as good (or better) in 100 years as it did the day it was made.
-JW
I'm not a fan of the "as found after only 45 years in the barn" look either.
I certainly appreciate "period correct" personalization, too. I'm not going to do anything irreversible. Someone put the later twin-disc front end on this bike back then; it's a period correct modification to me. I think I'm just gonna clean it up as required, re-paint the black, make sure the motor is running good and enjoy fiddling with it. But boy; the prices these are fetching in Japan right now...wow!
Quote from: JW113 on May 23, 2020, 06:13:10 PM
Not sure what you mean. Sending factory chromed parts out to be re-chromed to be like factory new condition is not unfair. Having it repainted by a local painter to original paint scheme is not unfair. Taking aluminum parts to the buffing wheel to shine up like new is not unfair. Is it? I get it, some people like the so-called "survivors", that have managed to make it through decades of use and neglect, and look like total trash. But in my case, I can't have anything that doesn't look showroom floor in my shop. I want this old iron to look and function as good (or better) in 100 years as it did the day it was made.
-JW
Not what I said... I specifically ruled out ~ Chrome...Would like to know where you are getting Parts Chromed Stateside tho..
We can still get chrome plating done in Canada, but it's terrible expensive. My exhaust is a little rough but to re-chrome is about $85 USD per FOOT. I'd be better to find NOS or clean used on eBay. Mine are 1-piece, stock looking tapered; are they aftermarket?
Factory exhaust had slip on mufflers, and the head pipes were connected with a cross over pipe.
We have several chrome plating shops in the bay area. The last two I used were High Luster in Hayward and The Best Chrome in San Martin. As stated, it ain't cheap no more.
-JW
Quote from: Ohio HD on May 24, 2020, 09:00:39 AM
Factory exhaust had slip on mufflers, and the head pipes were connected with a cross over pipe.
My 1974 brochure shows no crossover. I see these one piece pipes on a lot of old Ironheads; musta been a cheap dealer accessory
Here's the parts list.
[attach=0]
[attach=1]
Quote from: JW113 on May 24, 2020, 09:06:05 AM
We have several chrome plating shops in the bay area. The last two I used were High Luster in Hayward and The Best Chrome in San Martin. As stated, it ain't cheap no more.
-JW
It's an ongoing battle with the EPA to remain open.
A friend used to own a chrome shop in LA, He finally gave up after spending more than he profited to satisfy a moving target.
Plating shops are easy targets, low hanging fruit for unreasonable inspectors that can't agree among themselves.
Thanks; I see the crossover exhaust is 75 on
Quote from: Racepres on May 24, 2020, 07:34:32 AM
Would like to know where you are getting Parts Chromed Stateside tho..
Since we're on the topic....
I just took a left side TC fork slider down to Best Chrome in San Martin. $125. Not cheap, but a set of chromed fork sliders new from HD is $500. So in that respect, a LOT cheaper. I had called Valley Chrome, who is much closer to me, he also gets $125 for a fork slider, but has a minimum charge of $250 to do anything. How that is helping his business cash flow right now is beyond me, he just lost $125.
-JW
How much is a new tube from Forks by Frank?
Good question, I kind of don't recall exactly what he charged for the 1" shorter tubes for my Ironhead. He deals only in cash so no digital record to look up. $200 for the pair I think? I actually ordered and paid for these at his shop in Evanston IL. Quite an experience to see the shop. About as old school machine shop as I've ever seen in my life. Ancient lathes, piles of metal shavings everywhere, and boy what a smell. But the product is top notch quality. No school like old school!!
-JW
[attach=0]
What's this hole for?
Quote from: sharkoilfield on June 09, 2020, 10:17:10 PM
[attach=0,msg1350541]
What's this hole for?
It's a black hole and it ate your attachment
I use https://postimages.org to host pics
(https://i.postimg.cc/QCh1TnQp/20170528_093545.jpg)
[attach=0]
Try again; smaller image
Top rear Motormount
Working on Image..
(http://www.2040-parts.com/_content/items/images/50/60550/001.jpg)
I think that and the Small flat front cyl motor mount were XLCH only... Can't recall that
Front Motor mount
(http://www.2040-parts.com/_content/items/images/51/60551/001.jpg)
Quote from: sharkoilfield on June 10, 2020, 03:34:00 PM
[attach=0,msg1350604]
Try again; smaller image
Not sure what that is for, not a motor mount though.
That frame should have a single upper mount between the cylinders.
The early Sportsters up to '76 I think used a mount between the center of the heads. '77 and later they got rid of that bracket on the frame, and put a tube welded above the center of the rear head. That bracket that you are asking about, that is something left over from way back, like a sidecar mount or some crazy crap like that. I can tell you it makes it a real bitch to get the rear head off. I cut it off my bike, and am much happier for it.
[attach=0]
-JW
Quote from: JW113 on June 10, 2020, 06:16:34 PM
The early Sportsters up to '76 I think used a mount between the center of the heads. '77 and later they got rid of that bracket on the frame, and put a tube welded above the center of the rear head. That bracket that you are asking about, that is something left over from way back, like a sidecar mount or some crazy crap like that. I can tell you it makes it a real bitch to get the rear head off. I cut it off my bike, and am much happier for it.
[attach=0,msg1350625]
-JW
Again... I think till 1978... but will look I have more than a couple on the Farm..
Well if you trust the parts manual....
[attach=0]
[attach=1]
My '78 frame has no provision to attach item 34 to top frame, that bracket is not there. As in the picture I posted above, they moved it to just above the rear rocker box, and according to the parts book, starting in '77 for all models. As all things H-D, there was likely some mixture of both types in early '77 until they used up the '76 frames.
[attach=2]
-JW
Quote from: JW113 on June 11, 2020, 08:40:20 AM
Well if you trust the parts manual....
[attach=0,msg1350684]
[attach=1,msg1350684]
My '78 frame has no provision to attach item 34 to top frame, that bracket is not there. As in the picture I posted above, they moved it to just above the rear rocker box, and according to the parts book, starting in '77 for all models. As all things H-D, there was likely some mixture of both types in early '77 until they used up the '76 frames.
[attach=2,msg1350684]
-JW
Exactly what I have in the Barn... pre '77's tho, still have provision for the Front/Rear mounts as well as the center..Sadly, no XLCH from pre '77 in the Barn... I feel for some reason I have seen the Front/Rear mounts on pre-77 CH's.
How Old??? Hell... Maybe that '66 that was here awhile back...CRS
but, as i said... the provision is there... so... possibly added?
Just to make sure we're talking the same lingo...
[attach=0]
A = Front engine mount, where item 35 attaches
B = Center engine mount, where item 34 attaches (57-76) This bracket is not on 77 & later frames
C = Rear engine mount, where item 36 attaches (77 & later) This tube is not on the pre-77 frames
D = This is not an engine mount. Top side is for seat, bottom side is a mount point for side hack; not used for anything, cut it off to make removing rear head easier
-JW
Oh... Didn't pay close enough attention.. The above is absolutely Correct based on what is in My Barn..
Tho I did not Physically check if "A" was drilled and tapped!!!