HarleyTechTalk

Some inspiration for you !!

Quote from: pauly on Today at 05:50:45 AMHi Hilly13,

I'm in Australia. The government protections here are a front and actually achieve very little for the people. They are more to give people the illusion of protection. "Fit for purpose" is very debatable, particularly with a vehicle that will travel many thousands of ks, as long as you keep putting oil in it!

Thanks
Pauly

Quote from: Hilly13 on Yesterday at 10:17:46 PMI don't call that fit for purpose Pauly, you might have a case under our consumer protection laws?

I'm in Aussie as well mate, a bloke on the Aussie forum had a go with one of the brizzie HD shops, his was rust, he won in the end, was a long fight and they did the non disclosure clause thing so he couldn't say exactly only that he was happy with the result and will never buy another Harley, haven't heard from him since so I guess he ment it.

Quote from: hrdtail78 on Today at 01:57:28 PMOnce I get the inner fairing piece off that the switch needs to be moved out of the way for.  I put the correct spacer stack up back onto the assembly and stick the switch back into place and leave it unlocked.  This keeps it from locking as I am working and it makes sure innards don't come misaligned. 

This is a great suggestion. Thanks.

The above from hrdtail is a dammed good suggestion and/or you can also do it by keeping the bars straight. JUST DO NOT turn them as you preform your work.

If you do manage to turn and lock 'em, DON'T PANIC! Millions have done it - and with time and a logical approach you too will have managed to get it right again.

But I'd just do as hrdtail suggests and avoid the issue completely.
Good Luck!!

Results of first Auto Tune. I'm not familiar enough with the results to know whether I should run an Auto Tune on the resulting tune. I haven't tried riding with it yet.You cannot see attachments on this board.

Once I get the inner fairing piece off that the switch needs to be moved out of the way for.  I put the correct spacer stack up back onto the assembly and stick the switch back into place and leave it unlocked.  This keeps it from locking as I am working and it makes sure innards don't come misaligned. 

Is there a reason you can't do it with the switch installed?

Hi guys.

2013 Street Glide. Doing fork oil. Some demos show the ignition turned to lock whilst the bars are straight but mine won't unless the bars are hard left. Don't want them locked. Any ideas?

Thanks in advance. 

Quote from: Hossamania on September 12, 2024, 08:03:30 PM

Quote from: JSD on September 12, 2024, 07:31:45 PM

Quote from: Hossamania on September 11, 2024, 09:34:28 PMWhile the motor was apart, was the gear issue checked that jsachs mentioned?

He says they didn't remove gear box so I think they didn't even look at the bottom end Hoss

I got lost in the thread, I thought the crank was coming out for check and balance, hence the long time in the shop.
 "B" motors have balancers, those are suspect.

Yeah they said there was a tight spot (maybe a couple?) on the crank to con rod so it needed to be replaced.  They also said the balancer position was correct but the balancer pads were very worn. 

Timkin bearing, darkhorse crank, carillo rods, new stainless valves, I can't think of anything more to be done in the engine.  The vibration has seemed to be toned down a bit since the break in miles.  Not sure if it's just from initial wear or I'm just getting used to it. 

I asked them to look into the transmission a bit as I was having trouble sometimes getting into 6th, it'd only engage halfway and I'd need to hammer it in sometimes.  All I got was a note of "it goes into 6th" in the work order.  I was hoping they'd find something, bent fork maybe or something misaligned but they didn't bother.

The other important thing I have to remember is the tune changes.  When I first noticed the vibration, they tuned the engine WAY off to get rid of the vibration initially, and it worked for a year or so.  The vibration seemed to be getting worse and worse tho until it peaked during my trip.  When they recently changed it to the correct tune for the dyno they said it vibrated so much that they couldn't dyno it much less ride it.  However that same tune I believe is on the bike now, and it's rideable though still dealing with the vibration above 3k rpm like I was with the wrong tune.  I'm very much looking forward to the dyno results and see what happens when it's all dialed in.  I find it hard to believe that a couple of tight spots on the crankshaft was the cause of all this.  I'm also worried it might be another temporary fix until the balancer pads get worn down again. 

Also sorry for the delayed responses I don't always have time after work to get right home and do noisy things with my bike before having to stop to not annoy my neighbors.